C5 SX 2.0 HDi 110 51 Immobiliser lockout

Geoff Lebowski · Post by **Geoff Lebowski** » 17 May 2011, 15:50

I blew an accessory 12v (cigar lighter type) socket fuse. As the handbook is as much use as Ford Fiesta I took to removing fuses in a bid to find the blown one.
I checked all the engine bay fuses and then onto the glove box fuses. I found the blown one and replaced it. 12v socket now working again.
Started the car and drove for approx 5 seconds before the car cuts out and an immobiliser fault come up on the screen.

I have tried the following in an attempt to rectify the problem:
Removed and replaced again the engine bay fuses
Used the key to unlock and lock the car manually, then using the plip
Turning the ignition on with either of the unlock or lock keys pressed for more than 10secs, but every time, after about 6 secs I get the same warning: Engine Immobiliser Fault.

I'm searching the net for remedies. Any ideas please?

Clogzz · Post by **Clogzz** » 17 May 2011, 16:38

Try resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery.
Story copied from previous topic:

Shut boot, doors and windows, except for the driver’s window to leave open, and also open the bonnet.
Take the key out through the open driver’s window.
Don’t touch anything to prevent the pump from correcting the height, and to allow the BSI to go to sleep.
Wait for at least a minute and then disconnect the battery.
Wait another minute and then reconnect the battery.
Still don’t touch anything for a minute, then put the key in without opening the door and turn it to the accessory position.
Leave alone for another minute, then it’s done.

wheeler · Post by **wheeler** » 17 May 2011, 16:59

Have you put all the fuses back in the places they came out of ? sounds silly but its very easily done.
There are usually quite a few blank/spare/not for this model fuse spaces.
Maybe you have taken a working fuse out & put it back in a space for something thats not fitted to your car. I think you would be wasting your time looking for another fault untill you have a decent fuse diagram & checked they are all correct, after all the engine was working ok before you touched the fuses.

Geoff Lebowski · Post by **Geoff Lebowski** » 17 May 2011, 22:43

Thank you both.
Clogzz - I tried your remedy but it no worky!

Stupid electronic stuff!

Wheeler - your thoughts had crossed my mind, but the engine stalled on me after a few seconds of running. I'll have a check tomorrow - your post makes good sense.

wright · Post by **wright** » 17 May 2011, 23:08

it might be a fuse, the car started then looked for the immobilizer signal and found none, then cut the engine, and now because it received no signal it wont start again until it does,

also if you have a spare key it would be worth a go, if it starts I'm wrong

Geoff Lebowski · Post by **Geoff Lebowski** » 18 May 2011, 09:19

Okey dokey then - new day...new zest..............for now! Can anyone point me in the right direction please for a decent fuse diagram?
Also, if I have mis-inserted a fuse to knock out the immobiliser, is there anything else that wouldn't work on the same circuit?

wright · Post by **wright** » 18 May 2011, 09:47

according to autodata
fuse 16, 5a is for the steering column function control module i think the reader for the key goes through the com unit,
fuse 11, 15a, steering column function control module, engine control module
fuse 18, 10a, steering column function control module

wright · Post by **wright** » 18 May 2011, 10:03

Fuse 1, 10a
Fuse 2, 15a
Fuse 3, blank?
Fuse 4, 15a
Fuse 5, 15a
Fuse 6, blank?
Fuse 7, 20a
Fuse 8, Blank?
Fuse 9, 30a
Fuse 10, 15a
Fuse 11, 15a
Fuse 12, 10a
Fuse 13, blank?
Fuse 14, 30a
Fuse 15, 30a
Fuse 16, 5a
Fuse 17, 10a
Fuse 18, 10a
Fuse 19, no 19 listed
Fuse 20, 10a
Fuse 21, bank?
Fuse 22, 10a
Fuse 23, 15a
Fuse 24, 15a
Fuse 25, blank
fuse 26, blank this one i horizontal at the top

in the middle of the fuses there is a bridge link try this in both positions first i remember something about this, could be your problem,

this list is according to autodata and is normally 100% accurate

Geoff Lebowski · Post by **Geoff Lebowski** » 18 May 2011, 10:10

Thanks Wright. I've checked the fuses against the Cit handbook. All are present and correct. I've also checked any engine/ECU relevant fuses again to see if they were blown. They weren't. I've also pushed all fuses home firmly.

I'll look at the bridge link. I read somewhere that removing this will remove power from the Body System Interface, which, in part is associated with the immobiliser.

I've had the battery disconnected all night and still is now. Just put it on charge too, as something else I read was that immobiliser faults can be caused by an under par battery.

Why dont Cit put this prcedure in their books? Damned annoying

wright · Post by **wright** » 18 May 2011, 10:15

if it was in the book they wouldn't make money off you

Geoff Lebowski · Post by **Geoff Lebowski** » 18 May 2011, 12:00

I have found this which explains a lot!

Geoff Lebowski · Post by **Geoff Lebowski** » 18 May 2011, 12:13

OK, that didn't work and I think it's because I've made more than three attempts which then results in immobiliser lock down.

Now what I think needs to be done is to have the 4 digit pin code (from the card supplied in the pack) put in to the BSI and it should re-set itself. Is this possible with lexia and/or a pc download?

If som which version of lexia?

addo · Post by **addo** » 18 May 2011, 13:03

I've got an '02 Xsara tucked away with similar faults.

Basically "mine" (it's not, actually) goes into economy mode within a few seconds of certain procedures such as attempting to encode a key. It also fails to recognise a previously encoded key and thus won't allow starting.

Shortly after turning on the ignition one hears a faint click from inside the BSI and the dash lights go off as it powers into economy mode... It also powers down when you attempt to encode a key.

The problem isn't related to state of the battery as several healthy ones were tried. Ditto on the sleep/wake thing. My suspicion is an alternator fault; possibly a blown diode allowing excessive power to ground through the alternator. Either that or the internal BSI relay I can hear clicking off, is defective in current capacity or control.

So - Geoff - has the alternator been OK on your car?

Geoff Lebowski · Post by **Geoff Lebowski** » 23 May 2011, 19:37

Hi Addo,
I have no idea! There were no battery issues before. Logically it must be something I've done bt removing the fuses to the ECU and not following the recommended shut down procedure

dnsey · Post by **dnsey** » 23 May 2011, 21:12

Logically it must be something I've done bt removing the fuses to the ECU and not following the recommended shut down procedure

Not necessarily!
Leaving aside coincidence, which seems to occur far more often under fault conditions than seems reasonable, whatever blew the fuse might first have 'spiked' the ECU.