Xantia hydrolic pipes

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davek-uk
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Xantia hydrolic pipes

Post by davek-uk »

After 2 years my Xantia is back in the land of the living! Nearly...

The poor thing had a 6 month wait and then 18 months with it's nose in the garage but I eventually finished the work over Easter.

It went for a MoT last Saturday and failed on a rusted brake pipe!

The pipe that has rusted is the o/s rear – from the "K" connector all the way to the front I think. It comes out the "K" towards the o/s wheel and then turns back on itself, along the subframe, does a big inverted "U" in the centre and then goes further along the subframe toward the n/s.

In all fairness there are a few of the pipes that have rust due to the car standing around with it's bum on the ground and this is the worst.

Cleaning the rusted pipe up, a lot of rust came off the final half inch and my idea of cleaning it up and rust proofing it to pass the MoT seems a bit too dangerous now.

I guess a partial replacement is in order. Can someone give me some guidance here? This is looking like a big job…

Please help!

Dave
Pug Rifter long (20) - 41mpg - Gutsy for a 1.5!
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Post by citroenxm »

I had to change an OF side Rear brake pipe on my V6 last week...

The main feed comes from the front up over the subframe and down to the K junction...

Then it splits one to the N/s - nice and short, the other then goes Directly to the Off side, though it is a but curvey in places, it then goes through a curved braket with a 10 or 11mm nut, then its coiled, then goes to ANOTHER curved bracket that is a 10mm nut, then it goes across the top of the trailing arm to the caliper...

Getting the Unions moving is the HARDEST task... they will either be damm bloody tight and will round off, or they will come undone reletivily easyilly.

However, replacing it with another IS rather trickey.. I was a little rough with my and bent and curved it this way and that way, to get it in correctly, and feed it back across the top of the subframe behind the anti sink sphere and bracket... making sure its not touching any others..

It IS a rather tricky job, but dont be scared of being rough with the new pipe, they do take some abuse ..

Paul
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Post by CitroJim »

Dave,

If you need to do a partial replacement, it is possible top join the pipes using Pleiades-supplied barrel connectors which allows a length of kunifer pipe to be spliced in to replace the bad section.

The only problem is that the pipes need to have Citroen flares on them and tools to do this are as rare as the old proverbial. They are available but very expensive.

Else, Pleiades should be able to make you up a new length of kunifer pipe ready flared. Definitely worth a chat with Martin on this one.
Jim

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Post by citronut »

i find with all citroen pipe nuts if they wont budge with the corect spanner,
and you are scapping the pipe,

before rounding it of lop the pipe of leaveing no more than half an inch protruding,

then use a hex or wall drive socket on the remaining nut,

works 99% of the time for me,


regards malcolm
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davek-uk
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Post by davek-uk »

Thanks for the replies.

I’ve had a look at Citroen Service (fiche 394153 & 394215) and I still cannot identify which pipe it is. I’m beginning to think it may be item 5 on 394153 due to the “V” shape rise in the diagram, but until I can trace it with any certainty, I can’t be sure.

From what Paul says it doesn’t seem to be a supply pipe as its on the o/s/r. That gives me more hope as it should have both ends at the rear and be relatively easy to replace.

I’ll have to start to take the pipe off as it’s too difficult to trace across the rear subframe when it is clipped down with the others.

Cheers,
Dave
Pug Rifter long (20) - 41mpg - Gutsy for a 1.5!
Xantia 1.9 TD Temp.2 Break (97) - 208K@42mpg - Resting again.
Berlingo Multispace 1.6 16v (51) - 184K@36mpg - My shed! Still runs 15° retarded...
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