xantia 1.9td 1996 P plate heater de-mister

rjshearer · Post by **rjshearer** » 20 Jul 2003, 18:38

I have a xantia td 1996 and the heater de-mister has suddenly packed in with no warning checked fuses and seem ok can anyone suggest what the problem could be and how to rectify it.

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 20 Jul 2003, 19:28

Have you changed the coolant recently? If so, you may have an airlock in the system.

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 20 Jul 2003, 19:57

Could be burnt out contacts in the ignition switch, a known trouble spot for the heater on xantia's.
Dave

rjshearer · Post by **rjshearer** » 22 Jul 2003, 04:08

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave Burns

Could be burnt out contacts in the ignition switch, a known trouble spot for the heater on xantia's.
Dave
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Hi Dave, I don't know much about these things could you explain how burnt out contacts in the ignition switch would affect the heater fan.Is there a contact on the ignition specifically for the heater.If this is the problem would I need a new ignition switch.
Robert.[:D]

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 22 Jul 2003, 05:12

Robert -
I think you mean the blower fan -
DaveBurns is referring to another common Xantia td problem on the ignition switch issue.
Try this thread :
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=3536
Correction :
Apologise to DaveBurns -
The power feed to the blower fan is in fact taken directly from the ignition switch.
Robert -
For some silly reason - the Xantia is not equipped with a key switched power relay for the fan blower - taking off the load from the ignition switch itself.
This means the problem may in fact be a defective ignition switch. If this is true - the heated rear window (& heated mirrors if fitted) demisting won't work either.

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 23 Jul 2003, 03:36

If the problem is burnt contacts you only need the rear electrical section of the switch.
The contacts can arc due to the high loading and this has been known to tie the heater ecu in knots since it doesn't get a stable supply voltage.
Check out this thread.
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=2190
Dave

rjshearer · Post by **rjshearer** » 27 Jul 2003, 19:47

Hi Dave, just got round to checking ignition switch today,but could not get switch out.I got the 'wee'retaining screw out but there is a brass pin at the bottom which I could not move.So I gave up and put everything back together and lo and behold the blower is working again.Probably only temporary so could you educate me on the removal of the ignition switch please.I am going on holiday at the end of next week and would like to get to the bottom of this before then.
Cheers
Robert[8D]
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Dave Burns

If the problem is burnt contacts you only need the rear electrical section of the switch.
The contacts can arc due to the high loading and this has been known to tie the heater ecu in knots since it doesn't get a stable supply voltage.
Check out this thread.
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... IC_ID=2190
Dave
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 28 Jul 2003, 00:44

I can only tell you what it says in the H book, so if you have the book and can't get it out it could be that some detail is missing.
Insert the key and turn it to between the "A" and "S" position, remove the lock securing screw (at about the 1 o'clock position) disconnect the wiring conector, depress the retaining tab below the lock and pull it out via the key.
Looks like the lock and the switch could be one piece, not seen this before, usualy they are seperate and a square drive from the lock turns the switch, not sure if they can be seperated, maybe someone else knows.
Dave