Easy removal of the crankshaft pulley bolt

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Linegeist
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Easy removal of the crankshaft pulley bolt

Post by Linegeist »

Trial and error's a wonderful thing......I tried all sorts. Long torque bar supported on an axle stand, tapping studiously with one of those bolt loosening tools (worrying about the endfloat bearings, simple straining with the veins on my neck standing out like a martian roadmap......did it loosen? Hah! [xx(]
Then, my brain started to work........and I had an idea - just the one you understand.
It consisted of arranging a socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt with the suspension fully raised, attaching a long bar to the socket <i>and then placing the end of the bar on a sliding plate on the floor in front of the car - I used a kid's roller skate</i>. Handbrake off, gently roll the car forward with it in gear and 'CRACK!' The weight of the car turned the crankshaft against the stationary socket which slid along on its little 'trolley' and thus breaking the seal on the bolt ........ [8D][8D][8D]
Oh come on, it WAS rather good wasn't it?? [:p][:)][:)]
alan s
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Post by alan s »

Well done Sunshine....go to the top of the class; I'm proud of yer.
[:D][8D][;)][:D][:)][:p]
Alan S [:o)][:D][:o)]
DLM
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Post by DLM »

Another item for the "alternative" toolbox then - I'm sure we can fill it in no time at all.
I just remembered about the 99p giant wallpaper scissors I used once to remove c-pillar trim panels and their retaining grommets without damage. Not in the same league as a rollerskate or jar-top remover though...
David
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Post by bxbodger »

Heres a method that i have used for years on various cars; it never faails but can be dangerous if you are not careful. Put the socket on the nut, together with an extension bar on the handle ( i use a supermarket trolley handle, of all things ); position the end of thr extension against the floor or wedge into the nearest strong bit of chassis, Put car in neutral, turn key for a brief instant, then immediatly turn off; Bolt will now be loose. As i say, it has never failed to work in 20 years of car fixing. It also works for hub nuts.
The main probleb is keeping the socket in position while you turn the key, and you MUST BE CERTAIN that you know what way everything is going to turn.
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Post by JohnD »

This is the method that I used just a couple of months ago - and have used for years. I agree, if you're careful, it never fails.
Linegeist
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Post by Linegeist »

Ouch![}:)] Sorry if I sound a wet blanket [:I], but I like to retain manual control over processes that involve large forces ....... I can envisage a situation here where a ring gear tooth strips or the starter pinion shaft bends...... [:0][:0][:0][:0]
I'm a firm subscriber to the KISS principle - Keep It Simple, Stupid! Works for me.....[:D][:D][:D]
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