Difficulty of headgasket change on Peugeot 206 1.1?

[ashy90]

The headgasket on my girlfriends Peugeot 206 1.1 is going/has gone. How easy is it to do a headgasket changed on these? Are they a difficult engine to work on? Ive done a few Rover k series engine headgaskets, so should I be able to do the 206 or are they more difficult?

Are there any special tools needed to do the job? Is there any guide, or even any thread with pictures of the head coming off or setting the timing etc.?

Any help appreciated.

Also, it had a new headgasket a couple of years ago as the cylinder head had to come off due to a differant problem, why would it now fail after a couple of years?

[citronut]

these TU lumps are very easy to work on,

and you can do the head gasket job from under the bonnet, without jacking the car up to remove the O/S front wheel,

as you can remoce the crank pully from down the end of the eengine from the top,

if the engine has been seriously over heated/cooked, thids will knock the head gasket out, as the wet linners drop which break's the seal between the gasket and the linners,

also on liftting the head avoid just liftting it upwards, as you most slide it sideways at one end to break the joint firstly,

otherwise you rise disturbing/liftting the wet linners, then you might just as well scrap the block,


the tools you require are a 8mm bolt to lock the cam, a length of 3/16th kunifer brake pipe bent to shape to lock the crank/flywheel,


and dependant on year the the cam belt tensioner has a squre hole, earlier one have a slightly smaller hole than the later one which a 1/4 drive sqaure fits,


so on the earlier ones i made a tool from a small coach bolt with the head end bent at right angles, then lop the domed part af the head off and file the squre to fit the hole,

regards malcolm

[CitroJim]

It's a relatively straightforward job if it's the 8 valve engine. Cambelt off, rockers off, undo head bolts and lift is the basics of it.

You'll need a set of "Reverse Torx" sockets for the head bolts themselves.

TU heads often need to be lifted to cure an oil leak and this may have been the reason.

As it's "gone" relatively soon after the last work, I'd be inclined to take the head along to a specialist for a light skim and true-up before refitting with a good quality gasket.

Take careful note of the head bolt tightening sequence... It is critical. Haynes normally covers this work quite well...

[citronut]

i always do the angled tightenning in two stages, 120 degrees all round ever increaseing circle then do the same again,

as the BOL states i think 15lb foot then 240 degrees,

i feel that one heck of a load on each bolt in one go,

also double check the linner prtrusion, because if they have droped you will not get the gasket to seal at all

regards malcolm

[ashy90]

Thanks for the replies. Its a 1999/2000 model, and 8v I believe.

The reason for the previous cylinder head removal was due it needing new valves, so of course a new head gasket would have been fitted then. Why would it have now failed? If it was a one off dodgey/defective headgasket then it would have shown itself a lot sooner than 2 years after fitment.....does everyone agree?

[citronut]

so why do you think it is a head gasket gone, what are the symtons,

rad fan failed to cut in????, thermostate not working???, lose of coolant at some time ???, rad cap not holding presure???,

all of the above can cause head gasket faliure as you probably know,



the TU engine does not like being overheated,


were abouts are you,


regards malcolm

[ashy90]

Coolant tank is full of a mayo/coffee sludge. Will give the system a flush and re-fill it to see if the sludge comes back, Im pretty sure it isnt just dirty/rusty old water from lack of mantanance because it was very clean and blue before.

[uncle buck]

....also double check the linner prtrusion, because if they have droped you will not get the gasket to seal at all

regards malcolm

You can't check the protrusions with the liner O ring seasl in place.



Cheers.

[Oldpug]

Coolant tank is full of a mayo/coffee sludge. Will give the system a flush and re-fill it to see if the sludge comes back, Im pretty sure it isnt just dirty/rusty old water from lack of mantanance because it was very clean and blue before.

Its very common for engine oil to get into the cooling system on this engine,done lots.The head gasket fails in the o/side front corner,I bet you also have some oil leaking externally just around the timing cover.As said above,easy job to remove the head.

[citronut]

....also double check the linner prtrusion, because if they have droped you will not get the gasket to seal at all

regards malcolm

You can't check the protrusions with the liner O ring seasl in place.



Cheers.

i was always tought/shown to check the liners are very slightly obove the block before re/fitting the head,

i belive it also show's in the BOL to messure the protrusion when doing a head gasket,

even when you had not disturbed the linners,


regards malcolm

[Oldpug]

....also double check the linner prtrusion, because if they have droped you will not get the gasket to seal at all

regards malcolm

You can't check the protrusions with the liner O ring seasl in place.



Cheers.

i was always tought/shown to check the liners are very slightly obove the block before re/fitting the head,

i belive it also show's in the BOL to messure the protrusion when doing a head gasket,

even when you had not disturbed the linners,


regards malcolm

I cant see the point of checking liner protrusion,unless the engine was "cooked dry"?? as they are non adjustable.All the old Peugeot petrol engines (404,304,504,505 etc) had different size gaskets for the liners so you could adjust the protrusion. These late engines are just fit O rings and drop the liners in, job done.

[uncle buck]

i was always tought/shown to check the liners are very slightly obove the block before re/fitting the head,

i belive it also show's in the BOL to messure the protrusion when doing a head gasket,

even when you had not disturbed the linners,


regards malcolm

Yeah the Haynes manual does show the procedure for checking the liner protrusion, but as Oldpug has mentioned this only applied to earlier engines that had paper shim gaskets that were available in different thicknesses.

The Haynes manual doesn't mention that there is no adjustment available with the new O ring system & that in order to check the protrusion is within specification (quoted in the manual) that the O ring needs to be removed.
The O rings are very thin & easily broken, and if disturbed need to be replaced.

Cheers.

[Brent Vincent]

Its very common for engine oil to get into the cooling system on this engine,done lots.The head gasket fails in the o/side front corner,I bet you also have some oil leaking externally just around the timing cover.As said above,easy job to remove the head.

Hey, I have that problem also! There is a leak around the timing belt cover which I thought could be a leak in the cam seal? To fix it, is it just a matter of fitting a new head gasket + new bolts, and replace the timing belt kit?

Thanks,

Brent.

[Oldpug]

If you have engine oil around the timing cover alternator side, chances are its head gasket.As said lost count how many I have done.Check the header tank to see if any oil has got into the cooling system,if so remove the tank before you drain the system therefore keeping the oil from going back into the block.(Get my idea??)

[Brent Vincent]

Yeah there is oil in my coolant overflow (yellowish sludge) and the leak looks like it's coming from under the timing cover.
I think I understand about removing the head before draining; to prevent contaminated oil getting back into the head?
I'm sure it's the gasket but seeing as there is a leak near the timing cover, should I be suspicious of there being a leak in the cam seal?