Strange elecy problem, Xantia won't switch off..

Pleiades · Unread post by **Pleiades** » 26 Apr 2011, 15:15

As the title says.

A customer has been on the phone today and stated that his Xantia will not switch off? Me being clever said, easy, it's most likely the stop solenoid on the diesel pump.

It's a petrol

He says that it starts fine and runs fine but when he comes to switch off and even remove the key, it keeps on going! But if he presses the brake pedal down, the engine turns off, upon release of the pedal the ignition lights all come back on as if the key was in start position, eventually flattening the battery.

Before I get the car in and start scratching my golden locks, has anyone else had this before???

The car in question is a Xantia petrol auto with cruise control.

All suggestions greatefully recieved.

Regards
Martin.

Deanxm · Unread post by **Deanxm** » 26 Apr 2011, 15:27

im thinking there is an issue with the ignition switch here but to be able to take the key out with it still running

The ignition should just cut power to the engine ecu and fuel pump, no ecu power= no injection trigger and thus no fuel, its got to be shorted cable or wires touching that shouldnt be, most likely some bad diy gone wrong somewhere in its life....................best of luck Martin

D

Pleiades · Unread post by **Pleiades** » 26 Apr 2011, 15:31

Me thinks ignition switch too, but why should it cut with the brake pedal????

Regards
Martin.

Deanxm · Unread post by **Deanxm** » 26 Apr 2011, 15:41

Its the brake pedal thing thats making me wonder if the problem is further down the wiring loom somewhere and not in the ignition switch itself like a bunch of wires are strapped together but shorting on each other...............
There is no vacuume load on the engine of a Hydraulic cit obviously so it has to be purely electrical.
I would turn the ignition off, hopefully the car will stay running and give the ignition loom a good wiggle and flex and the ignitionn a bit of a tap and if wires are shorting out in that loom it should break the short and stop the engine, its not a great idea but its the best i can think of without seeing an ignition circuit wiring diagram.

Sorry
D

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 26 Apr 2011, 17:21

Check main battery earth leads, especially the one that runs from engine or gearbox to body.

AndersDK · Unread post by **AndersDK** » 26 Apr 2011, 18:43

Ask your customer if he has replaced any rear lights bulbs lately.

The standard problem is that a single point BA15s 21W bulb is put into the Rear/stop lights socket, where a double point BA15d 21W/5W bulb should reside.

Owners usually go by the physical size of the bulb and completely misses tihe single or dual point end contact configuration on the bulb.

Pleiades · Unread post by **Pleiades** » 26 Apr 2011, 21:50

I will check all suggestions and let you know if and when I find the solution.

Thanks for all replys, keep em coming even daft ones will be considered, as I allways think that the only stupid question is the one that was not asked.

Regards
Martin.

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 26 Apr 2011, 22:30

I have had this problem, when pressing the brake pedal would stop the engine, I can't remember the car but it would have been a diesel - they are the only ones I run, but I do remember that applying the brake pedal was pulling down the voltage on an ignition switched line which shouldn't have been there in the off position. I think it was a high resistance feed which was enough to keep the engine operating until the load of the stop lamps caused it to drop.

Peter

Deanxm · Unread post by **Deanxm** » 26 Apr 2011, 22:41

Actualy now you mention it Peter the Brake lights seem to be wired in in such a way that they do sap voltage from the dash backlights and warning lamps on most XM and Xantia's.

D

handyman · Unread post by **handyman** » 28 Apr 2011, 11:06

Hi Martin, this looks like a starter motor or starter wiring problem. If he is able to kill the engine by pressing the brake pedal so the engine stops and it then starts again, the starter circuit must be energised. It probably means the starter motor is turning continuously,

, rather than turning off once the engine is running.

Try pulling the small lead off the starter motor that comes from the ignition switch to the solenoid switch, to see if that turns off the starter motor. If it does then the problem is either in the ignition switch or the starter solenoid.

To test the lead from the ignition switch, connect up your meter to the lead and run it to earth. With the ignition switch in the starter position it should read about 12V+. If you get a reading with the switch in its normal running position, the switch is faulty, likewise if the switch is turned off with the key out. It may also be wise to check the wiring loom under and around the steering column for any shorts, breaks or rubbing through the insulation.

Let me know what you find and I'll tell you the next instalment.

H

mongoose100 · Unread post by **mongoose100** » 29 Apr 2011, 13:26

I had this problem a few months back!

Found it totally by error, went to replace dash bulbs - had spare cluster so just swapped them over.

Problem disappeared, never to return. Tried old dash a few weeks ago and the issue poked its ugly head back, changed again, issue gone again...

When this happened, the trans lights both flashed until the pedal was pressed.

However, I never had the issue of the battery going flat.

Does the AIRBAG light come on in the ACC position? Mine did, but never in the ON position... New cluster it does on ON only

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 29 Apr 2011, 22:23

Richard i dont think the engine is re/starting just the ignition lights are re/lighting,

regards malcolm