urgent help need with this part

eurotrotter · Unread post by **eurotrotter** » 28 Mar 2011, 19:18

has anyone got this screw:

https://picasaweb.google.com/1096236004 ... 2068003170

http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc26 ... Bleed2.jpg

i have an interview for a job thursday 3 hrs south, and i cant get to my pug dealer til teh weekend

i will pay good money for one

thanks

KevMayer · Unread post by **KevMayer** » 28 Mar 2011, 19:33

Why not try a short M6 bolt for now with the original seal.

You can get these at Halfords or even B&Q.

eurotrotter · Unread post by **eurotrotter** » 28 Mar 2011, 19:39

its too long

there either 16, which is too short or else 20 long which is too long

addo · Unread post by **addo** » 28 Mar 2011, 20:36

Stack brass or stainless washers under the head, and use the 20mm long socket head capscrew. It may weep, but coolant loss will be miniscule.

eurotrotter · Unread post by **eurotrotter** » 28 Mar 2011, 20:41

the fact that mine is hollow, and has a small whole in it, as seen in the this pic, could i damage the engine or cooling system by using a normal socket cap?

https://picasaweb.google.com/1096236004 ... 1697299826

addo · Unread post by **addo** » 28 Mar 2011, 20:43

No. The hole and bore exist to bleed coolant by only a slight loosening of the screw.

To bleed with a conventional capscrew you need to back it almost right out - messier and slightly less convenient, but works fine. I have a stainless capscrew in the 405 after a similar failure to yours; got the official brass one but haven't been organised enough to swap it in!

eurotrotter · Unread post by **eurotrotter** » 28 Mar 2011, 20:48

interesting, that's interesting that its just there to help it bleed easier, but if i use a load of washers, will that mean it could loosen?

another point, the thread pattern looks a bit weird to me onthe gold screw, or are m eyes acting up?

is it an m6 screw by the way?

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 28 Mar 2011, 20:50

Wrap about 10 turns of PTFE tape around the screw or put some silicon sealant on it and allow to set before replacing it.

Peter

eurotrotter · Unread post by **eurotrotter** » 28 Mar 2011, 20:52

hi pete, why do i need to do this?

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 28 Mar 2011, 20:56

Just to seal an ordinary screw to stop it leaking.

Peter

eurotrotter · Unread post by **eurotrotter** » 28 Mar 2011, 21:14

thanks peter!

eurotrotter · Unread post by **eurotrotter** » 29 Mar 2011, 05:26

just to let ye know that it isn;t an m6 socket cap, its bigger than that, i tried fitting an m6 and it just glided in, so i guess its an m7/m8 or whatever the next size up is!

thanks!

Xantidote · Unread post by **Xantidote** » 29 Mar 2011, 09:40

well I'm sure you'll find a bolt to fit. Just cut it to the length you require, and clean up the ragged bolt end with a file so the bolt threads nicely into the housing. I'd have thought either PTFE tape wrapped around the thread, or a copper or fibre washer under the head would do - whatever you have to hand.

I guess the original bleed screw won't be as strong as any replacement ordinary bolt, because the original had had the centre drilled out. Perhaps the original bleed screw was not of a very high grade/strength metal?

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 29 Mar 2011, 09:44

My post disappeared from this topic yesterday

Unread post by **RichardW** » 29 Mar 2011, 09:47

It should be M6:

1306 29

01 DRAIN SCREW
DIAM 6X100-18
- DW10 TURBO DIESEL

If it goes in without touching the sides, it has perhaps been overtightened (hence broken!) and stripped the threads in the alu housing? If you've got one that's a couple of mm too long it won't do any harm - just check it doesn't foul the thermostat.