I'm about to take the plunge and clean out the LHM and put in Hydraflush (Xantia Hdi90). Mileage is 62000 and main dealer stamps show it was replaced at 26000 miles.
I dipped the LHM tank and the fluid seems pretty clear, but is a pale honey colour. I haven't yet unclipped any pipes so I can't see the state of the filters.
I don't loose fluid but the suspension has been acting up a bit.
Ever since I've had the car it's been a sinker.
For a couple of days I've thought that the suspension was a bit hard compared to normal. Then yesterday, as I walked towards the car, I could see the suspension was low at the back. I driove off, for the first 30 seconds or so the suspension was pretty well solid. Then it seemed ok. Later in the day I got under and cleaned up the rear dog-bone area as best as I could, then sprayed WD40 followed by spray of 3-in-1 an hour later. I do Citrobics every week or two.
I have also got, at the ready, three new rear sheres.
So, queries are:
is the colour of the fluid as to be expected?
should I look at changing the front centre sphere? I can't count the clicks 'cos the engine seems too noisy.
Xantia Hdi90 - colour of old LHM and suspension problems.
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rmunns
- Posts: 615
- Joined: 09 Jul 2009, 22:09
- x 9
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Chris570
- (Donor 2020)
- Posts: 1494
- Joined: 12 Dec 2009, 14:10
- x 41
the LHM should be like radioactive man's p!ss (bright green)
the fact its brown i would be changing that fairly soon as it'll be gunking stuff up...
i'd probably run some hydraflush through it first.
if you have the capability i'd get the spheres pressure tested to see if they need replacing
the fact its brown i would be changing that fairly soon as it'll be gunking stuff up...
i'd probably run some hydraflush through it first.
if you have the capability i'd get the spheres pressure tested to see if they need replacing
2006 C5 HDi 170
1998 Xantia Activa S1
1971 D Special
2018 Renault Zoe,
1998 Xantia Activa S1
1971 D Special
2018 Renault Zoe,
A 1/3 of Team WFA 'Clarkson'CitroJim wrote: I'm a pink fairy
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citroenxm
- Fallen Hero
- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- x 70
Pretty much as Chris has advised, but,
If you have Already got the spheres, then change them anyway..
Id drain the system first, then defeantly put hydraflush in first to clean the internals through, then change the rear spheres when you put the NEW LHM in..
As for rear end, its not so much the dog bone, more the two levers - one thats connected to the steel rod that goes to the lever in the car, and the other thats attached to one end of the dog bone..
These need to be really free!! Any signs of stiffness or sticky ness they need freeing off.. You check them be levering them with a screw driver as theres a spring "Damper" this takes up the movement... if they are nice and ffree then there should be no problem
Paul
If you have Already got the spheres, then change them anyway..
Id drain the system first, then defeantly put hydraflush in first to clean the internals through, then change the rear spheres when you put the NEW LHM in..
As for rear end, its not so much the dog bone, more the two levers - one thats connected to the steel rod that goes to the lever in the car, and the other thats attached to one end of the dog bone..
These need to be really free!! Any signs of stiffness or sticky ness they need freeing off.. You check them be levering them with a screw driver as theres a spring "Damper" this takes up the movement... if they are nice and ffree then there should be no problem
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto