Ball joint tool
Moderator: RichardW
-
- Posts: 803
- Joined: 31 Oct 2001, 02:36
- Location: South Bucks
- My Cars:
Ball joint tool
If I recall correctly, someone mentioned that the special citroen tool for removing the lower front ball joint on Xantias was not available. However looking at Facom tools website, they do the relevant tool for around £35 part no D138. It apparently also fits Xsaras and BX. Not exactly a bargain, but cheaper than an hours labour!
RG -
It's correct this tool has been around for ages and works on both BX & Xantia.
- but it's a known fact the joint structure itself cannot withstand the necessary forces applied using the tool for removal. The outer "splines" on the joint this tool works on simply crumbles.
- the joint seizes in the arm to an incredible extent over the y's.
This is not to blame the tool though - it's simply a dodgy design of the joint.
The joint is fitted using threadlock (Locktite) - & the threads are tapered - part of the joint is peened (staked) to lock against the arm - add to that an incredible torque specified when the joint is fitted - finally add the harsh road -dirt & -salt environment.
Many DIY owners (like wheeler & I) has no doubt finally found their Waterloo fighting with this joint [:p][:p]
Believe me - removing this balljoint is not for the fainthearted DIY'er [;)]
The tool however makes the fitting of new joints a very simple screw-on job - using a common torque reading bar - as opposed to the crumbling job using a common Stilson - which easy makes the whole job an unpleasant MOT issue.
It's correct this tool has been around for ages and works on both BX & Xantia.
- but it's a known fact the joint structure itself cannot withstand the necessary forces applied using the tool for removal. The outer "splines" on the joint this tool works on simply crumbles.
- the joint seizes in the arm to an incredible extent over the y's.
This is not to blame the tool though - it's simply a dodgy design of the joint.
The joint is fitted using threadlock (Locktite) - & the threads are tapered - part of the joint is peened (staked) to lock against the arm - add to that an incredible torque specified when the joint is fitted - finally add the harsh road -dirt & -salt environment.
Many DIY owners (like wheeler & I) has no doubt finally found their Waterloo fighting with this joint [:p][:p]
Believe me - removing this balljoint is not for the fainthearted DIY'er [;)]
The tool however makes the fitting of new joints a very simple screw-on job - using a common torque reading bar - as opposed to the crumbling job using a common Stilson - which easy makes the whole job an unpleasant MOT issue.
£35.00 for this tool? Try your local spares shop; I got the Franklin version, together with a big impact socket to turn it from Clarkins in Walthamstow for about £13.00 the lot; it also fits some Peugeots and readily available in most spares shops. It still didnt work for undoing the joint, however; a vice, grinder, hammer, chisel, and blowtorch were needed: its worse than the old B.L. shimmed joints, at least you could get a socket on them!!! The tool is very good for fitting and torquing up the new joint, however, but put a bit of coppaslip on it first.
-
- Posts: 1801
- Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 14:46
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
Which I suppose means that you automatically budget for a new wheel bearing when you do a balljoint due to the heat required. Some loctite needs really high temperatures to degrade. Drat! more work. I suppose that means using a scrapyard hub carrier as a donor to cut the downtime. How hot do you need to get it?