A stupid question really, but, after changing the fluid and cleaning out the filters, they were covered in black muck. If the system is a closed system, how does the dirt get in ?
After changing the acculator, fluid and cleaning filters, the pump is making regular knocking noises. Not the ticking that has now decreased, but a regular knocking that rises with the revs.
XM 2.00 turbo 1993 60000 miles only
Thanks
Steve
Fluid
Moderator: RichardW
Just normal contamination via breathers etc, but usually there's not as much as you think.
Citroen's claim to fame with this technology, is it's machining ability which is down to one micron in parts; ultra mean tolerances, so as can be imagined, with those kinds of tolerances involved, as well as steel & alloys in the system, the metal filings that come off in the normal process of wear, will usually show as a face powder consistency & are black and dark grey in colour.
The ticking you speak of normally occurs as the system is used (ie) steering, brakes & suspension but should abate once up to pressure. If it continues to click, chances are the accumulator sphere is ready for replacement; an easy DIY job.
I presume you did cycle the suspension, up to max then down completely & then back up again, a few times & bleed the accumulator bleed screw?
Alan S
Citroen's claim to fame with this technology, is it's machining ability which is down to one micron in parts; ultra mean tolerances, so as can be imagined, with those kinds of tolerances involved, as well as steel & alloys in the system, the metal filings that come off in the normal process of wear, will usually show as a face powder consistency & are black and dark grey in colour.
The ticking you speak of normally occurs as the system is used (ie) steering, brakes & suspension but should abate once up to pressure. If it continues to click, chances are the accumulator sphere is ready for replacement; an easy DIY job.
I presume you did cycle the suspension, up to max then down completely & then back up again, a few times & bleed the accumulator bleed screw?
Alan S
If you are driving the car on the road, you dont need to prime the pump as you have already done it.
Why not try de pressurising the system, turn off the engine, put the car in low position and then release the pressure bleed valve on the accumalater, but only a small turn. You will know that you have released the pressure by the sound but don't do any further turns as you may loose the ball bearing in the bleed valve. Turn on the engine and then let it idle for a minute, then tighten the bleed valve back up, but make sure you are not going near and moving parts like belts. move the height corrector to high position and the car should rise up and hopefully your 'knock' will have gone.
Good luck
Why not try de pressurising the system, turn off the engine, put the car in low position and then release the pressure bleed valve on the accumalater, but only a small turn. You will know that you have released the pressure by the sound but don't do any further turns as you may loose the ball bearing in the bleed valve. Turn on the engine and then let it idle for a minute, then tighten the bleed valve back up, but make sure you are not going near and moving parts like belts. move the height corrector to high position and the car should rise up and hopefully your 'knock' will have gone.
Good luck
I did all that you said, but the car is still taking its time to rise. It seems to do it in jumps. It will raise and faster if I rev the car. The back goes up smoothly, which is odd because the rear spheres are shot. The front seems to go up but in short bursts.
The knocking noise is still coming from the pump.
Any ideas
Steve
The knocking noise is still coming from the pump.
Any ideas
Steve
Just had a thought, what condition is your front height corrector in? It may be that it is full of crap built up over the years from the road. Try doing what I have done to all my past BX's and Xantia's. Get your car up on ramps and make sure that is won't move. Go underneath and find the height corrector. Plaster it with gunk or similar and leave it for 15 mins, then power wash it off but dont do the rest of the car underneath 'cos you'll get dripped on from everywhere. Get some gloves and if you can get someone in the car to take orders, plater some good quality thick grease all over the linkages including the one that connects to the anti roll bar. Ask the person in the car to move the height lever back and forth for about 5 mins then put some more grease onto the linkages again just to get it into all the joints. Do the same for the rear height corrector and also put some grease onto any brackets that the rods go through.
now fire up the car and hopefully the car will raise up a bit more easier, if not, at least you have done a good maintianance job on the car.
If the height corrector isnt free, it will try to work against the hydraulic system and make the car raise up in a jumpy fashion.
Good luck
Paul
now fire up the car and hopefully the car will raise up a bit more easier, if not, at least you have done a good maintianance job on the car.
If the height corrector isnt free, it will try to work against the hydraulic system and make the car raise up in a jumpy fashion.
Good luck
Paul
Mark -
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> ... some of the dirt will be material from the seals in the system as components such as struts and cylinders wear ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Anything mechanical wears - producing grains - from dust to dust [:p]
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> ... some of the dirt will be material from the seals in the system as components such as struts and cylinders wear ... <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Anything mechanical wears - producing grains - from dust to dust [:p]