Hi everyone, I'm attempting to start this CX auto that has been sat for around 8 years. The car has been in a dry garage all this time and has was looked after by an enthusiast during it's time on the road. I'm planning to temporarily kill the ignition and build up some oil pressure by turning the engine over in short bursts. Hopefully after that with the ignition on, it may start.
The handbrake was left 'on' and I suspect the pads have rusted on to the discs. The car feels absolutely 'solid' when I tried to push it, but I can only get access to one side of the car as the garage is so small.
I've been told that the suspension may rise very rapidly when the engine starts, at the moment the car is on it's 'stops'.
Lastly, and don't laugh, where is the lever to adjust the drivers seat slide mechanism?
Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated.
Regards, samjmann.
CX 2.1 ie. 1985. Starting after being stored for 8 years.
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samjmann
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 20 Jan 2011, 20:48
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andmcit
- Posts: 4299
- Joined: 03 Mar 2005, 17:59
- x 30
Hi Sam.
That's a 2.5ie not a 2.1ie if it's a '85 CX!! The 2.0 was never auto'd either!
At a push it could be a late 2.4 but at this age I doubt it very much.*
Right. Cx's are pretty bulletproof and technically will take the abuse.
I wouldn't panic about a few quick churns on the starter as the fuel will need
to kick in and it doesn't happen instantly. You'll find too that they're quite
leisurely when turning over as well. Just turn it enough that the oil gets into
the cam and it'll be fine. *If you confirm IT IS a 2.5, you'll have two coils
sitting on top of the head, you could uncouple the flywheel sensors that sit
above the flywheel at it's 11'o clock at the joint of the gearbox below the
waterpump - they'll be a blue and a separate black multi-plug.
When the flywheel sensor is back in place so the ECU get's the vibes it
needs I'd take particular notice of the fuel pump and look for it's merry buzz
like a trapped bumblebee under the rear offside floor just ahead of the rear
subframe crossmember. These are always quite noticeable when turning
over so no buzz, likely no fuel.
I wouldn't worry about the handbrake - basically Cx's don't have one and
it may be the autobox selector isn't properly in neutral! If you start her and
drop the handbrake it'll pull through the potentially stuck pads - they're a
tiny footprint on the discs.
As far as suspension rising swiftly, I wouldn't expect it to catch you out.
Sure if the hydraulics are healthy, the car will raise up on the starter simply
turning over anyway. Certainly take precautions with the car not only raising
without much notice BUT ALSO dropping down just as quickly if a high
pressure pipe pops with corrosion when it's opened up to 1500psi after it's
slumber. Expect a rapid drop if a rear pipe goes pop so be aware! Don't get
trapped or have anyone close to the car and wall etc...
No question is silly if you've never sat in a CX before; the seat slider is a bar
that runs across the lower front squab width that you pull upwards and then
wriggle the squab out of it's current position - you're moving a pair of pins
out of a notched rail by a sprung loaded lever and then the seat will move.
Happy Cx'ing. Amazing to hear of another long term mothballed car being
resurrected; Prestige, Gti or Pallas?
What's it's story then? do you have plans for it yourself? You don't
fancy doing a 'blog' thread update here for us Cx addicts?
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=33923
All the best, Andrew
That's a 2.5ie not a 2.1ie if it's a '85 CX!! The 2.0 was never auto'd either!
At a push it could be a late 2.4 but at this age I doubt it very much.*
Right. Cx's are pretty bulletproof and technically will take the abuse.
I wouldn't panic about a few quick churns on the starter as the fuel will need
to kick in and it doesn't happen instantly. You'll find too that they're quite
leisurely when turning over as well. Just turn it enough that the oil gets into
the cam and it'll be fine. *If you confirm IT IS a 2.5, you'll have two coils
sitting on top of the head, you could uncouple the flywheel sensors that sit
above the flywheel at it's 11'o clock at the joint of the gearbox below the
waterpump - they'll be a blue and a separate black multi-plug.
When the flywheel sensor is back in place so the ECU get's the vibes it
needs I'd take particular notice of the fuel pump and look for it's merry buzz
like a trapped bumblebee under the rear offside floor just ahead of the rear
subframe crossmember. These are always quite noticeable when turning
over so no buzz, likely no fuel.
I wouldn't worry about the handbrake - basically Cx's don't have one and
it may be the autobox selector isn't properly in neutral! If you start her and
drop the handbrake it'll pull through the potentially stuck pads - they're a
tiny footprint on the discs.
As far as suspension rising swiftly, I wouldn't expect it to catch you out.
Sure if the hydraulics are healthy, the car will raise up on the starter simply
turning over anyway. Certainly take precautions with the car not only raising
without much notice BUT ALSO dropping down just as quickly if a high
pressure pipe pops with corrosion when it's opened up to 1500psi after it's
slumber. Expect a rapid drop if a rear pipe goes pop so be aware! Don't get
trapped or have anyone close to the car and wall etc...
No question is silly if you've never sat in a CX before; the seat slider is a bar
that runs across the lower front squab width that you pull upwards and then
wriggle the squab out of it's current position - you're moving a pair of pins
out of a notched rail by a sprung loaded lever and then the seat will move.
Happy Cx'ing. Amazing to hear of another long term mothballed car being
resurrected; Prestige, Gti or Pallas?
What's it's story then? do you have plans for it yourself? You don't
fancy doing a 'blog' thread update here for us Cx addicts?
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... hp?t=33923
All the best, Andrew
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Citroening
- Posts: 2511
- Joined: 26 Feb 2010, 20:19
- x 19
Hi and welcome samjmann! 
A blog would be great to see this CX being saved - at the rate in which CXs are coming out of the woodwork we'll need a CX section on the forum!
...BTW, does anybody known what has happened to the cxclubforum anyway?
If you're successful in returning the CX to the road then there is the Citroen Car Club National Rally and of course the Citroen Car Club CXM Rally...both of which should be very good meetings.
If you have any pictures that would be great, but the main priority is of course to get it running. It's perfectly do-able...here's 15 years, and was seen at the CXM Rally this year and Dom won a prize with the Mouse-Mobile too.
A blog would be great to see this CX being saved - at the rate in which CXs are coming out of the woodwork we'll need a CX section on the forum!
...BTW, does anybody known what has happened to the cxclubforum anyway?
If you're successful in returning the CX to the road then there is the Citroen Car Club National Rally and of course the Citroen Car Club CXM Rally...both of which should be very good meetings.
If you have any pictures that would be great, but the main priority is of course to get it running. It's perfectly do-able...here's 15 years, and was seen at the CXM Rally this year and Dom won a prize with the Mouse-Mobile too.
Franklin
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CGATCX25GTITURBO
- Posts: 292
- Joined: 21 Nov 2010, 10:58
- x 15
Hi
not saying you should do this 'get out clause' in case you burn your car or run yourself over
but it is what I have done in the past without either event ocurring other basics make sure you are nowhere near moving pulleys or have loose tools near them or that can short across the car's battery.
make sure the car is in park
ignition off
loosen pressure regulator (different on autos) you will get the gist from the picture. this is to stop the LHM being sprayed everywhere (if there are leaks ) while you are trying to get the car running once it is running you can nip the bolt back up and check the integrity of the hydraulic sytem.
near the battery positive pole, there will (should) be thinner cable going to the starter soleniod 'it should follow the thick starter cable' This can be used to turn the starter 'ignition off' without triggering the fuel / igniton circuit. un connect the spade terminal and hold the 'from the engine side' on the positive terminal of the battery. give it a few seconds at at time, don't labour it check there is oil on the rockers arms by opening the oil filler cap an looking in there, don't just rely on the oil light going out
CX's turn over slowly 'very slowly' if the starter is on its way or the battery is down.
not saying you should do this 'get out clause' in case you burn your car or run yourself over
but it is what I have done in the past without either event ocurring other basics make sure you are nowhere near moving pulleys or have loose tools near them or that can short across the car's battery. make sure the car is in park
ignition off
loosen pressure regulator (different on autos) you will get the gist from the picture. this is to stop the LHM being sprayed everywhere (if there are leaks ) while you are trying to get the car running once it is running you can nip the bolt back up and check the integrity of the hydraulic sytem.
near the battery positive pole, there will (should) be thinner cable going to the starter soleniod 'it should follow the thick starter cable' This can be used to turn the starter 'ignition off' without triggering the fuel / igniton circuit. un connect the spade terminal and hold the 'from the engine side' on the positive terminal of the battery. give it a few seconds at at time, don't labour it
check there is oil on the rockers arms by opening the oil filler cap an looking in there, don't just rely on the oil light going out CX's turn over slowly 'very slowly' if the starter is on its way or the battery is down.
Neil aka CGAT
1986 CX25 GTI TURBO 1 SERIES 2 'CGAT'
1998 XANTIA 19TD ESTATE
1987 BX19 GTI 8V
2012 Citroen DS3
1997 600 Bandit
2000 ZX12R from new
1989 CX GTI Turbo 62k miles in a barn since 2001, project started 2023.
1986 CX25 GTI TURBO 1 SERIES 2 'CGAT'
1998 XANTIA 19TD ESTATE
1987 BX19 GTI 8V
2012 Citroen DS3
1997 600 Bandit
2000 ZX12R from new
1989 CX GTI Turbo 62k miles in a barn since 2001, project started 2023.
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andmcit
- Posts: 4299
- Joined: 03 Mar 2005, 17:59
- x 30
Hi Sam,
by updates, I meant 'like here' and showed the link to the thread where
SwissSPEC has kept the discussion about his Cx in that one thread rather
than made new posts about different queries / news etc. I'm not saying add
your story to his thread!
(obviously more tired than I thought
last night!
)
Another thing to check out carefully is the crow's nest of wiring around
the battery as it usually gets badly disturbed lifting the battery in / out
especially as the autobox takes a lot of space out of a tight spot already.
You'll find the connection Neil mentions in this area (usually a yellow feed
wire with red plastic male / female connectors. The other wiring to watch
are the spades runningnoff the +ve terminal and a pair of large heavy
blue wires joining on a white multiplug - these power the fuel pump. On
the s.1 the BIG BLUE BOSCH fuel relay lives here too in a bag and clipped
to the panelwork under the headlight.
Andrew
by updates, I meant 'like here' and showed the link to the thread where
SwissSPEC has kept the discussion about his Cx in that one thread rather
than made new posts about different queries / news etc. I'm not saying add
your story to his thread!
(obviously more tired than I thoughtlast night!
)Another thing to check out carefully is the crow's nest of wiring around
the battery as it usually gets badly disturbed lifting the battery in / out
especially as the autobox takes a lot of space out of a tight spot already.
You'll find the connection Neil mentions in this area (usually a yellow feed
wire with red plastic male / female connectors. The other wiring to watch
are the spades runningnoff the +ve terminal and a pair of large heavy
blue wires joining on a white multiplug - these power the fuel pump. On
the s.1 the BIG BLUE BOSCH fuel relay lives here too in a bag and clipped
to the panelwork under the headlight.
Andrew
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CGATCX25GTITURBO
- Posts: 292
- Joined: 21 Nov 2010, 10:58
- x 15
I left out the wire colour detail and plastic bag covered relay on purpose many of the ones I have visited have been changed over the years ...because of previous keepers visits
Neil aka CGAT
1986 CX25 GTI TURBO 1 SERIES 2 'CGAT'
1998 XANTIA 19TD ESTATE
1987 BX19 GTI 8V
2012 Citroen DS3
1997 600 Bandit
2000 ZX12R from new
1989 CX GTI Turbo 62k miles in a barn since 2001, project started 2023.
1986 CX25 GTI TURBO 1 SERIES 2 'CGAT'
1998 XANTIA 19TD ESTATE
1987 BX19 GTI 8V
2012 Citroen DS3
1997 600 Bandit
2000 ZX12R from new
1989 CX GTI Turbo 62k miles in a barn since 2001, project started 2023.
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andmcit
- Posts: 4299
- Joined: 03 Mar 2005, 17:59
- x 30
Odd, none of mine have had these wires hacked about by previous owners,
with there being quite a few! (owners and cars)
With this one standing 8 years and previously owned by an enthusiast it
could go either way, mint and as per standard or spliced and doctored
and questionable reliability hence it being mothballed - both could see
the car being laid up.
The electrics and general wiring along with corrosion are the undoing of
many Cx's. A few hours rerouting and cable tying the main loom on the
nearside both in battery tray area and the inner wing can help massively.
Andrew
with there being quite a few! (owners and cars
)With this one standing 8 years and previously owned by an enthusiast it
could go either way, mint and as per standard or spliced and doctored
and questionable reliability hence it being mothballed - both could see
the car being laid up.
The electrics and general wiring along with corrosion are the undoing of
many Cx's. A few hours rerouting and cable tying the main loom on the
nearside both in battery tray area and the inner wing can help massively.
Andrew
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Xantidote
- Posts: 1146
- Joined: 03 May 2009, 22:07
- x 5
If the car's been sitting for 8 years, then I'd question how good the petrol will be. May have gone "stale", with the volatile constituents having evaporated off? I have great difficulty starting a rarely used classic car, and the fuel's not as old as yours. However, if I remove the carb tops and pour new fuel into the float chambers, then bingo
Martin
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased
)
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased
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andmcit
- Posts: 4299
- Joined: 03 Mar 2005, 17:59
- x 30
Totally agree about the fuel going off: chuck 5-10 litres in at the start
of drawing the fuel through turning the car over. The feed onto a banjo
on the injector rail can be 'cracked' loose to see if there's pressure and
the state of the fuel being fed through. There are online filters so the
furl won't wax and stuff up the injectors though. I guess an octane boost
additive could help too. In practice I've only found recommissioning issues
with carb Gs's but fuel injected Cx's invariably always start easily.
Andrew
of drawing the fuel through turning the car over. The feed onto a banjo
on the injector rail can be 'cracked' loose to see if there's pressure and
the state of the fuel being fed through. There are online filters so the
furl won't wax and stuff up the injectors though. I guess an octane boost
additive could help too. In practice I've only found recommissioning issues
with carb Gs's but fuel injected Cx's invariably always start easily.
Andrew
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samjmann
- Posts: 24
- Joined: 20 Jan 2011, 20:48
CX 2.5 ie. 1985. Starting after being stored for 8 years.
Hi everyone,
Thank you all for so much support and advice,
Just to clarify the car is a CX 2.5 ie auto pallas series 1 (saloon).
All cars this age have their story, so I'll give you the background to this one. The car belonged to my wife's first husband, Mike, who sadly passed away last summer after a long battle with cancer. Mike really loved Citroens and at one point had 2 XM's and 2 CX's! He owned this since 1986, he was the second owner. The car has been soaked in Waxoyl, structually it's sound. There's no rust on either side of the upper rear arches and window area. The car along with enough spares to fill a Transit have been sold to a specialist CX dealer, my part is to get the car started.
Sunday morning,
After removing the old battery, quite a job, we put in a 55ah battery supplied to us by the purchaser. The oil level was OK and also the LHM level which I took to be the small dipstick near the nearside sphere. As was mentioned in your replies I listened for the fuel pump, which seemed to be working. After a few tentative cranks of the starter, I left the engine ro let the oil move round a little. Next, to ease the load on the battery I paralelled our van's 110ah battery. This lifted the cranking speed and after a few more attempts the engine fired and ran as if was started yesterday!
However I'm not out of the woods yet. After running for more than 10 mins the suspension did not rise, even after moving the height adjustment. The power steering did seem to work, but there was no pressure under the footbrake. Also the alternator is not charging, as the warning light is on and the battery terminal voltage drops when the engine is running.
The handbrake does now seem to be working. The engine speed drops slightly when it's 'gear', so I think I should be able to gently drive the car out of the very small garage. The bottom hose on the radiator seemed very cold whilst the top was hot, so their might be a thermostat problem or similar as well!
Thanks again for all your help, Mike would have loved this.
Regards, samjmann.
Thank you all for so much support and advice,
Just to clarify the car is a CX 2.5 ie auto pallas series 1 (saloon).
All cars this age have their story, so I'll give you the background to this one. The car belonged to my wife's first husband, Mike, who sadly passed away last summer after a long battle with cancer. Mike really loved Citroens and at one point had 2 XM's and 2 CX's! He owned this since 1986, he was the second owner. The car has been soaked in Waxoyl, structually it's sound. There's no rust on either side of the upper rear arches and window area. The car along with enough spares to fill a Transit have been sold to a specialist CX dealer, my part is to get the car started.
Sunday morning,
After removing the old battery, quite a job, we put in a 55ah battery supplied to us by the purchaser. The oil level was OK and also the LHM level which I took to be the small dipstick near the nearside sphere. As was mentioned in your replies I listened for the fuel pump, which seemed to be working. After a few tentative cranks of the starter, I left the engine ro let the oil move round a little. Next, to ease the load on the battery I paralelled our van's 110ah battery. This lifted the cranking speed and after a few more attempts the engine fired and ran as if was started yesterday!
However I'm not out of the woods yet. After running for more than 10 mins the suspension did not rise, even after moving the height adjustment. The power steering did seem to work, but there was no pressure under the footbrake. Also the alternator is not charging, as the warning light is on and the battery terminal voltage drops when the engine is running.
The handbrake does now seem to be working. The engine speed drops slightly when it's 'gear', so I think I should be able to gently drive the car out of the very small garage. The bottom hose on the radiator seemed very cold whilst the top was hot, so their might be a thermostat problem or similar as well!
Thanks again for all your help, Mike would have loved this.
Regards, samjmann.
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CGATCX25GTITURBO
- Posts: 292
- Joined: 21 Nov 2010, 10:58
- x 15
Guess thats why we're on here sharing experiences.andmcit wrote:Odd, none of mine have had these wires hacked about by previous owners,
with there being quite a few! (owners and cars
None of the ones I mentioned were 'hacked about' chances are the wiring was changed when starters /alernators replaced etc as these wires get cooked due to their location being near the exhaust manifold.
I thought the 2.4 and 2.5 normally aspirated fuel rails were connected by a hose clip not a banjo? it's been a while since I've been near one and bow to greater knowledge.
on the injector side of things.. the rubber hose between the rail and injectors go porus so I would watch for these being wet/damp.
Yeah I would try it with fresh fuel though recently I managed to start an old Kawasaki GPZ with the fuel in the tank......it had been standing only 7 years though
Neil aka CGAT
1986 CX25 GTI TURBO 1 SERIES 2 'CGAT'
1998 XANTIA 19TD ESTATE
1987 BX19 GTI 8V
2012 Citroen DS3
1997 600 Bandit
2000 ZX12R from new
1989 CX GTI Turbo 62k miles in a barn since 2001, project started 2023.
1986 CX25 GTI TURBO 1 SERIES 2 'CGAT'
1998 XANTIA 19TD ESTATE
1987 BX19 GTI 8V
2012 Citroen DS3
1997 600 Bandit
2000 ZX12R from new
1989 CX GTI Turbo 62k miles in a barn since 2001, project started 2023.
-
Citroening
- Posts: 2511
- Joined: 26 Feb 2010, 20:19
- x 19
Re: CX 2.5 ie. 1985. Starting after being stored for 8 years
Good work with the progress!
Ah! A series one 2.5 Pallas IE - a very nice combination that is. We have very recently just sold one with 28,000 miles on it...pic here.
That CXi 250 number would look good on your car...!
...sounds to me that you may need to loosen the bleed screw on the accumulator sphere (Neil explains it with more detail and a picture above).
This should make the car rise and give power steering.
Ah! A series one 2.5 Pallas IE - a very nice combination that is. We have very recently just sold one with 28,000 miles on it...pic here.
That CXi 250 number would look good on your car...!
...sounds to me that you may need to loosen the bleed screw on the accumulator sphere (Neil explains it with more detail and a picture above).
This should make the car rise and give power steering.
Franklin
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CGATCX25GTITURBO
- Posts: 292
- Joined: 21 Nov 2010, 10:58
- x 15
Shouldn't have taken so long to write my postCGATCX25GTITURBO wrote:Guess thats why we're on here sharing experiences.andmcit wrote:Odd, none of mine have had these wires hacked about by previous owners,
with there being quite a few! (owners and cars
None of the ones I mentioned were 'hacked about' chances are the wiring was changed when starters /alernators replaced etc as these wires get cooked due to their location being near the exhaust manifold.
I thought the 2.4 and 2.5 normally aspirated fuel rails were connected by a hose clip not a banjo? it's been a while since I've been near one and bow to greater knowledge.
on the injector side of things.. the rubber hose between the rail and injectors go porus so I would watch for these being wet/damp.
Yeah I would try it with fresh fuel though recently I managed to start an old Kawasaki GPZ with the fuel in the tank......it had been standing only 7 years though
well done on getting it running
Neil aka CGAT
1986 CX25 GTI TURBO 1 SERIES 2 'CGAT'
1998 XANTIA 19TD ESTATE
1987 BX19 GTI 8V
2012 Citroen DS3
1997 600 Bandit
2000 ZX12R from new
1989 CX GTI Turbo 62k miles in a barn since 2001, project started 2023.
1986 CX25 GTI TURBO 1 SERIES 2 'CGAT'
1998 XANTIA 19TD ESTATE
1987 BX19 GTI 8V
2012 Citroen DS3
1997 600 Bandit
2000 ZX12R from new
1989 CX GTI Turbo 62k miles in a barn since 2001, project started 2023.
-
andmcit
- Posts: 4299
- Joined: 03 Mar 2005, 17:59
- x 30
CGATCX25GTITURBO wrote:I thought the 2.4 and 2.5 normally aspirated fuel rails were connected by a hose clip not a banjo? it's been a while since I've been near one and bow to greater knowledge.
Now now. 
I've just realised lately I'm losing then plot and my memory is shot to pieces. I'm perfectly happy to agree the 2.4 and 2.5 will have that
cloth type reinforced fuel feed up to the injector rail - yes, I've been faffing
about with Turbos for a long while now.
Andrew
-
andmcit
- Posts: 4299
- Joined: 03 Mar 2005, 17:59
- x 30
Could be you need to hand prime LHM into the feed pipe into the hydraulic
pump through a cookery small platic funnel. It'll be the fat feed hose running
from the pump to the LHM reservoir - simply unclip the ligarex wire type
connection and pop the hose off the head of the LHM reservoir.
You may need to feed about 1/2 to a litre of fluid as it gulps it into the
pump and keep on top of feeding it. Once it feels like there's a strong draw
you need to pop the fuilled pipe onto the reservoir head and clamp firmly with
a jubilee - course you probably then may have a bit too much LHM in the
system which you can check when the car rises to the maximum ride height.
Then, vent the commonly called bleed bolt screw on the accumulator pictured
with Neil's picture above.
Andrew
pump through a cookery small platic funnel. It'll be the fat feed hose running
from the pump to the LHM reservoir - simply unclip the ligarex wire type
connection and pop the hose off the head of the LHM reservoir.
You may need to feed about 1/2 to a litre of fluid as it gulps it into the
pump and keep on top of feeding it. Once it feels like there's a strong draw
you need to pop the fuilled pipe onto the reservoir head and clamp firmly with
a jubilee - course you probably then may have a bit too much LHM in the
system which you can check when the car rises to the maximum ride height.
Then, vent the commonly called bleed bolt screw on the accumulator pictured
with Neil's picture above.
Andrew