406 Estate 1.9TD Workshop Tips for DIY Clutch

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a4gom
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406 Estate 1.9TD Workshop Tips for DIY Clutch

Post by a4gom »

Hi guys, clutch has just started slipping on my 406, it's not really bad yet and I'm hoping I'll get a bit nearer to the warmer weather before spending and afternoon in the garage but i'll have to do it before long as I use this as my tow barge for my sprint car and it's not going to tow a trailer anywhere as it is.

I've done a few clutches in the past but never one on a 406, any experts out there? A few tips on problems I might face shortcuts etc would be gratefully recieved.
citronut
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Post by citronut »

the main thing if its a back to front clutch (pull not push presure plate)
is remove the clutch actuatting arm completly before spltting bthe box from the engine,

this allows the fork shaft to rotate which lets the prongs to disengadge from the thrust bearing,


both drive shafts need too be pulled out of the gear box, on the O/S this requires the hocky stick bolts at the intermediate bearing releasing/undoing completly,

on reassembly make sure the slots on the thrust bearing are both faceing towards the front of the car,

then point the fork prongs towards the clutch as you engadge the gear box into place,

so the fork prongs slot into the thrust bearing as the box comes up to the engine,


regards malcolm
evilally
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Post by evilally »

A tip I picked up onhere was to replace the plastic bushes at the top and bottom of the fork shaft. They cost pennies from the dealership and make the clutch lighter and much smoother.
'96 405 1.6 GLX with 306 GTI engine on Cat cams @ 195bhp

'05 RenaultSport Clio 182 Cup, 102k

'97 406 1.9TD, 314k.
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a4gom
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Post by a4gom »

how do i know if it's a pull not push pressure plate? looks like the clutch cable pushes the arm?

I'll get some bushes thanks for the tip.
citronut
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Post by citronut »

firstly if it a TD it will im sure be a pull clutch,

or if the inner cable is attatched to a fixed braket forward of the clutch actuatting arm/fork lever, and the inner cable does all the work/moveing the clutch fork arm, then this is a pull back to front clutch


regards malcolm
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a4gom
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Post by a4gom »

Thats right the inner is fixed to a bracket forward of the arm, outer stops at the actuating arm.

Although I'm convinced the clutch needs replacing I think the adjuster may be at its limit and adjusting, slipping back, adjusting etc..... i've had this on cars before. Sometimes I get clutch slip and sometimes I don't and the pedal feel changes. Access to the adjuster is virtually non exsistant so it's hard to confirm this.
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a4gom
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Post by a4gom »

Well it was a pull not a push and was a bit of a pain to do, I didn't do most of it myself as a friend who is between jobs offered to help out but it was his first of this type so he did struggle.
Anyway its eventually back together and I'm gutted! JUDDER!! Drives absolutely fine once your rolling but setting off in either direction is not pleasant and holding it on the clutch on steep inclines for long causes it to smell.
I've done about 350 miles (200 were motorway so limited clutch action) and it's probably worse rather than better so it doesn't look as though it's a bedding in issue.
Looks like it will have to come back out unless anyone has any other suggestions?
panason1c
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Post by panason1c »

Allowing the gearbox to 'hang' off the clutch plate during refitting can distort/buckle the clutch plate which will then cause a judder when pulling away.........could this be the reason?
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a4gom
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Post by a4gom »

Quite feasible, I wasn't there when it went back on but I know he made a number of attempts so he may have goosed it.
Will have to get it out and have a look.
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a4gom
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Post by a4gom »

Replaced the clutch, pressure plate was warped!
Kit replaced on warranty but they wouldn't give us owt for labour :(
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