Anyone help my Xantia-owning mate? South coast.

citroenesque · Post by **citroenesque** » 10 Jan 2011, 22:25

Hi, 'Kermit' has acquired a (1996/7?) Xantia TD with Hydractive but the rear suspension is particularly in need of some fettling. Being thoroughly mechanically minded but not familiar with Hydractive or Xantias, is there someone near Worthing who might be able to help get the car's suspension sorted - (and get it onto a Lexia even?)....

Stempy · Post by **Stempy** » 10 Jan 2011, 23:38

Sound like a job for.................. CITRONUT

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 10 Jan 2011, 23:41

i have a DIS LEXIA but not much knowledge with the mistery's of ACTIVA's,

but im sure with help from the FCF'S very own ACTIVA expert it should be possible to sort,

and im in St Leonards on sea,

andmcit · Post by **andmcit** » 10 Jan 2011, 23:52

It'll just be a VSX if it's got 'normal' suspension on a '96 TD Xantia
so not an Activa that needs the Red Adair of Xantiae to intervene Malcolm...

Andrew

citroenesque · Post by **citroenesque** » 11 Jan 2011, 10:04

Malcolm, if you PM me your number, Phil Boxall (Kermit) can give you a call. He's in Worthing. He described the problem as:

"it maybe only the computer needs the fault codes clearing and set up again.
I believe the battery was flat for some time prior to me buying it so that could be the reason.
I am clutching at straws here.
Sometimes when i take it out it is perfect then i stop and when i start off again it is as though the suspension is set in high and has no movement."

citroenxm · Post by **citroenxm** » 11 Jan 2011, 12:43

Sounds like the "Normal" typical Hydractive fault, with either a faulty ECU trough burnt diodes, or the hydractive valve is sticking..

Paul

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 11 Jan 2011, 13:07

pm sent

regards malcolm

Post by **CitroJim** » 11 Jan 2011, 16:41

Spheres first before worrying about hydractive ECUs burning diodes...

Start off with the accumulators, both of them, and the rear corner spheres. carry out basic hydractive checks: Do the hydractive electrovales "sing" when a door is opened and continue to sing for 30s after the door is shut again, stopping with a healthy clunk.

A full test of the Hydractive system is described here: I wrote it long ago for an Activa but the same principles apply..

Start up and allow full hydraulic pressure to be reached on normal height.

First check: Do "Citarobics" and ensure the height lever takes the car smoothly from normal to low, then up to high and back to normal. Stop if it sticks at any height setting, mindful that an Activa is slow to rise and fall and that the Activa rams can make it jerk suddenly at the front when going from low to high. It is essential both height correctors are working as they should. Check the front and rear fall and then rise again if you put weight on the ends of the car by sitting on the tailgate sill and the front slam panel with the bonnet up.

The next thing to do is check the hydractive electrovalves are doing as they should and switching between hard and soft mode correctly. You have two of these, one at the front down by the rad and one high up under the rear subframe. You should be able to hear them humming if you put your ear close. With the engine running, both front and rear should be relatively soft and easy enough to bounce up and down. Stop the engine, making sure all doors are shut, listen for the hum from the electrovalve whilst bouncing the front end of the car. It should still feel soft. After 30 seconds, you should hear a clunk from the hydractive electrovalve as it switches to hard mode and the suspension should stiffen considerably. the front should suddenly feel rock-hard.

Open and shut a door to put the suspension back into soft mode and repeat for the rear. Again, listen for the clunk after 30s and the suspension stiffening. It will not stiffen as markedly as the front but you will feel it stiffen.

If these tests fail, front or rear, you have a duff back-emf supressor diode in your electrovalve. A very common problem that strictly requires replacement of the failed electrovalve but can be cheaply worked around by use of Uncle Bucks magic box. It contains diodes that take the place of the failed ones.The hydractive elctrovalves can suffer corrosion on their plugs as they're in exposed positions.

Note that the hydractive electrovalves when off (no current flowing) set the suspension into hard mode. They switch on (operate) for soft mode. Hence why they switch off 30s after the car is stopped and doors closed to prevent battery drain. When driving, they spend most time switched on to set the suspension soft.

Hope that helps Phil...

citroenesque · Post by **citroenesque** » 11 Jan 2011, 18:51

Thanks!!!