Most of the vital jobs are done now on my Xantia. New spheres fitted, new tyres, (Uniroyal Rain Expert which I highly recommend), cambelt and water pump all done. Just a few more jobs to do to make perfect and any advice would be great.
1. Can't stop the gear linkage from being stiff and squeeky. Tried spraying it with WD40 which works for a bit but then drys out and starts again. This must happen to other cars?
2. The mid section of the exhaust is blowing near the joint with the backbox. My local garage will fit a sleeve for 50 quid. Will this work?
3. The backbox is very boomy and sounds like a boy racer car. I suspect it may be a cheap one or the baffles have collapsed. Are there any good backboxes on the market?
4. Just checked the LHM oil. Not good. Brown and very water like when compared to new oil. Hydroflush? Read the posts and job looming!
5. Clicking from under the engine bay. One comes from the top of the engine near the fuel rail. The other comes from the nearside headlight! Sounds like a relay?
Xantia 1.8 16v S1 General questions
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Clicking?. Injectors Ticking?? Some can be quite loud...
Gear linkages, my SX TD S1 is stiff, I think its the link rod ball joints getting dry, try popping them off, filling the ball joint nylons with grease and re fitting them... that should loosen them up.
YES do a Hydraflush on the LHM system. Quite easy to do. Lower the car to the ground, open the pressure screw to release pressure and return excess to the tank, unclip the pipes to the top and remove the tank. Empty the old brown LHM , and clean the filters out. Theres a D shaped one, and a long conical one refit and re fill with Hydraflush.
When you come to a LHM refill, bleed the brakes out of old LHM till green flows through, as the brakes are a dead end line..
Back bax, swap sounds best bet, can see why a sleeve wouldn;t work, its no worse then useing a mig to patch it up..
Paul
Gear linkages, my SX TD S1 is stiff, I think its the link rod ball joints getting dry, try popping them off, filling the ball joint nylons with grease and re fitting them... that should loosen them up.
YES do a Hydraflush on the LHM system. Quite easy to do. Lower the car to the ground, open the pressure screw to release pressure and return excess to the tank, unclip the pipes to the top and remove the tank. Empty the old brown LHM , and clean the filters out. Theres a D shaped one, and a long conical one refit and re fill with Hydraflush.
When you come to a LHM refill, bleed the brakes out of old LHM till green flows through, as the brakes are a dead end line..
Back bax, swap sounds best bet, can see why a sleeve wouldn;t work, its no worse then useing a mig to patch it up..
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
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Re: Xantia 1.8 16v S1 General questions
- Apply some grease under the gear change linkage cups. There are 1 long and 2 short linkage bars (6 cups).Stepto1 wrote:1. Can't stop the gear linkage from being stiff and squeeky. Tried spraying it with WD40 which works for a bit but then drys out and starts again. This must happen to other cars? ...
- (Hydroflush + LHM change) OR (LHM change only)Stepto1 wrote:4. Just checked the LHM oil. Not good. Brown and very water like when compared to new oil. Hydroflush? Read the posts and job looming! ...
- This might be the depollution canister relay. In a 1.8i 16V, it is almost next to the battery, behind the headlight. You can wrap it with a piece of foam mat.Stepto1 wrote:5. Clicking from under the engine bay. One comes from the top of the engine near the fuel rail. The other comes from the nearside headlight! Sounds like a relay? ...
C5 II 2.0i 16V - 2005 - Estate - 103KW - EW10A - Petrol - Manual
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The relay ticks more frequently and louder when the weather is cold.
You don't have to clean it. It circulates the gases in the system (inj. fuel).
Relay looks like this. In 2.0i 16V it is more hidden than in 1.8i 16V models.
********************************************
Also hydroflush pic. continuing the above reply:
You don't have to clean it. It circulates the gases in the system (inj. fuel).
Relay looks like this. In 2.0i 16V it is more hidden than in 1.8i 16V models.
********************************************
Also hydroflush pic. continuing the above reply:
C5 II 2.0i 16V - 2005 - Estate - 103KW - EW10A - Petrol - Manual
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Re: Xantia 1.8 16v S1 General questions
Thats what I meant by sugesting removing them!!VertVega wrote:- Apply some grease under the gear change linkage cups. There are 1 long and 2 short linkage bars (6 cups).
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
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Re: Xantia 1.8 16v S1 General questions
I missed thatcitroenxm wrote:Thats what I meant by sugesting removing them!!VertVega wrote:- Apply some grease under the gear change linkage cups. There are 1 long and 2 short linkage bars (6 cups).
Paul
As citroenxm suggests, try popping them off. If they don't pop off then just apply lubricant with your finger tip
C5 II 2.0i 16V - 2005 - Estate - 103KW - EW10A - Petrol - Manual
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Re: Xantia 1.8 16v S1 General questions
Probably, but if you shop around on the internet, you might get a new mid section for not much more.Stepto1 wrote:
2. The mid section of the exhaust is blowing near the joint with the backbox. My local garage will fit a sleeve for 50 quid. Will this work?
It could have had a diesel box fitted, these tend to boom a lot on a petrol engine.Stepto1 wrote:
3. The backbox is very boomy and sounds like a boy racer car. I suspect it may be a cheap one or the baffles have collapsed. Are there any good backboxes on the market?
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Be very careful with the gear linkages if you try to remove them. One end has a rubber donut around the ballcup and if you are not careful the rubber donut can tear. Strictly, you need a special forked tool to remove them.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
An open ended spanner is Very Good for this... if you choose the right size, you can get the spanner under it and if its not too big it can support the rubber that Jim is pointing out....
The only awkward one is the one with no under support..
Paul
The only awkward one is the one with no under support..
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto