Citroen C5 2.0 Hdi High Pressure Diesel Pump

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SJE32
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Citroen C5 2.0 Hdi High Pressure Diesel Pump

Post by SJE32 »

I have Citroen C5 2.0 HDi 02 plate with a leaking pump, its not affecting the running of the car in so much as it runs smooth and does not lag when you want more power.

what does happen is that on top of the pump their is an electrical connection that sits on the top of the pump, the plate its mated with then sits on the pump, its from under this plate that it appears to leak fuel. The 4 screws/bolt on the plate are solid none are loose, so I think it must be a gasket of some sort under the plate top.

Has any one got any ideas.

The image is not mine but it is of the same type of pump.

Image


Is this a repair job that I can do, I am not a novice with repairs on engines, but I have never taken one or any HDi pump apart.


Any help pointers or solves would be super


thanks all
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citroenxm
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Post by citroenxm »

Thats an interesting one, I bought a spare pump too... however, unfortunally, this one also leaks from under this plate!!

I tried to release the Trox screws but they were so damm tight, I think the Trox bit was going to break...

My guess is theres a seal gasket of some sort under there... but didn't get mine apart to find out..

Ill get back to it one day... Ill keep a watch of your post, and see what if anything comes of this..

Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project

A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
SJE32
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Post by SJE32 »

citroenxm wrote:Thats an interesting one, I bought a spare pump too... however, unfortunally, this one also leaks from under this plate!!

I tried to release the Trox screws but they were so damm tight, I think the Trox bit was going to break...

My guess is theres a seal gasket of some sort under there... but didn't get mine apart to find out..

Ill get back to it one day... Ill keep a watch of your post, and see what if anything comes of this..

Paul
when you said they were going to break, what sort of pressure where you applying to them, air gun or hand wrench ?

also would you know is this type of pump is the same on pugs ?
citroenxm
Posts: 8061
Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
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L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto

2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising
x 71

Post by citroenxm »

Yes, the Pumps on all 2.o's are the same... I even found that a 2.o Pump DOES work on a 2.2 16v engine, so theres a chance it could work in reverse.

No, I had the pump in a Bench vice, and used 1/4 Drive, but could see the bolt head starting to um... "Crumble" if that makes sense...

I think the only difference in fuel systems is the Fuel Filter unit..

So as long as the Plug on the top is present, as I think some dont have them it should be fine..

Theres a certain eira of BMW common rail engines that use the Same pump, but for some reason are much stronger and last longer, though they are still Bosch...

Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project

A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
SJE32
Posts: 13
Joined: 18 Dec 2010, 22:25
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Post by SJE32 »

citroenxm wrote:Yes, the Pumps on all 2.o's are the same... I even found that a 2.o Pump DOES work on a 2.2 16v engine, so theres a chance it could work in reverse.

No, I had the pump in a Bench vice, and used 1/4 Drive, but could see the bolt head starting to um... "Crumble" if that makes sense...

I think the only difference in fuel systems is the Fuel Filter unit..

So as long as the Plug on the top is present, as I think some dont have them it should be fine..

Theres a certain eira of BMW common rail engines that use the Same pump, but for some reason are much stronger and last longer, though they are still Bosch...

Paul

Well I have found out the following, and ordred the seals required.

I called them today, spoke to a fellow called Lee and have ordred seals for £15.70

links are to images of the parts needed and Pound N settings

Image

Image

the pdf file is at

PDF FILE

I hope this helps others.

This type of pump also fits

Citroen C5,C8,Evasion,Jumpy HDI 98 kw Fiat Scudo,Ulysse 2.0 JTD 80/96 kw Lancia Z 2.0 JTD 80 kw Peugeot 406 , 607,806,807, PeugeotExpert 2.0 HDI 81/98 kw

but not all have the shut off on top of the plate by the id plate, my type is a CP1.

Declaration

Any info given above is only what I have found out by searching and asking both here and other forums, and by ringing around.

the work should only be done by a qualified person, any attempt by unqualified persons may do more damage than before, and I can not be held responsible for it.

The Np setting is from a qualified source.
citroenxm
Posts: 8061
Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto

2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising
x 71

Post by citroenxm »

SJE32

Wonderfull Stuff!! Thats excellent information..!

Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project

A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
SJE32
Posts: 13
Joined: 18 Dec 2010, 22:25
Location:
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Post by SJE32 »

citroenxm wrote:SJE32

Wonderfull Stuff!! Thats excellent information..!

Paul
Thank you.

cant stand it when posters ask for infomation, get some replies, and dont reply to what they have done so far.

i will post pics of the take out and install when I do it, but that will be in the New Year now.

so till then

Have a good one.
SJE32
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Update

Post by SJE32 »

Update.

After changing the seal "O" Ring in the centre it still leaks so it's off with it again to change the 4 rings at the bleed nipple which is set into the head surface.

All photos are of the unit, and in picture

Image

You can see on the top surface the nipple in question. There are 4 "O" rings on this nipple 2 are under it and the other two are in the top face plate.
As shown in the diagrame. No's 7

Image

The black "O" ring is the what I should have changed as well as its white ring which sits with it.
On the underside of the top plate you can see two rings, on is the steel ring, when you clean the area it is very easy to miss this as it falls out so be aware.

Image

I did not change these as I did not think it was the problem, now in hind sight I wish I had done.

The other parts are here, including the main seal ring.

Image

From start to finish it took me from 10 in the morning till 4 in the afternoon to take it all out and put it all back and running, the leak is still there, however its far less than it was.

On another note it was very difficult to get the Main "O" seal to sit in place when putting the face plate back on, i solved this by using a cotton thread as a lasso around the top face place and holding the "O" seal in place until it was almost down and removing it as it sat on the base plate.
Once I have done all this again in the New Year I will post back what was done and if it worked or not.

Happy New Year to you all.
dnsey
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Post by dnsey »

Might I suggest the merest smear of 'thin' gasket compound might help in holding the rings in place during re-assembly, and with the final seal?
Whilst some might regard this as a 'bodge', my view is that if they work (and cause no further problems), such techniques are legitimate - we don't have the facilities of the factory and injection specialists.
cachaciero
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Post by cachaciero »

This is a really interesting and informative thread my compliments and thanks to SJE32 for the start to finish details.

My interest is due to the fact that I had a leak from my pump after changing the cambelt from under the plate, however it stopped after a couple of days and hasn't come back, however.... :-(.
Would be interested to know where you sourced the seals from.

Best regards and a Happy New Year

cachaciero

EDIT

Ah! followed the PDF link which gives the source plus much other interesting info.
2006 Toyota Prius T Spirit
2001 2.2 C5 Exclusive SE
1996 XM 2.1 TD Auto VSX
1995 XM 2.1 TD Auto SX died @ 140K
1987 CX 2.5 Gti Turbo II dead
1984 Ford Scorpio
1981 CX 2.4 Pallas Auto
Renault 21
1220 GS Club
Rover P6 2000TC
SJE32
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Post by SJE32 »

dnsey wrote:Might I suggest the merest smear of 'thin' gasket compound might help in holding the rings in place during re-assembly, and with the final seal?
Whilst some might regard this as a 'bodge', my view is that if they work (and cause no further problems), such techniques are legitimate - we don't have the facilities of the factory and injection specialists.
When I spoke to the folks that sent me the seal kit, they were quite clear about the NONE ue of greases or any type of gasket seal on the two surfaces, and also about flat filing or sanding the heads as they are micro tolerances used and also the chances of particulates entering the system.
Yes the heads were cleaned up before reassembling, but no abrasive action was used, I will post up a photo or two of the head after state next time.

I did find that the gasket (1) was very, hmm flat in compasion to the replacement. but nothing more that that, I still suspect it to be the "O" Rings (7's) to be the culprit behind it all, but only the next refit will tell.
SJE32
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Post by SJE32 »

Done and dusted.

Had it apart again yesterday, the problem was indeed the 4 seals (7) and the fact that they had split in the base, the black "O" sits atop a white nylon ring, so as the diagram shows the bleed bypass nipple has the 4 seals, it was the seal in the base part that’s was split.

Cleaned of the whole area again, I did not use and 3rd party sealants when putting it back together but I did use a blob of grease to keep the large "O" ring from falling as the top was offered back to the main unit.

I then put it all back into the car, and cross all limbs and fingers as i started it up.

And "OHH YES" no leaks.

Would I do it again, well considering a refurbished pumps are around £240 quid, and the seal kit with vat and delivery was £19, yes I would, and taking the bits off the C5, as long as you approach it like a cam belt change you should not really go wrong.
And I am NO mechanic at heart, just read a lot and do stuff I feel I can confidently do.
It Beats citra-ripp-off price of £980 before vat and fitting any day.

Thank you all for your replies tips and help. I hope this post helps others as well.
citroenxm
Posts: 8061
Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto

2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising
x 71

Post by citroenxm »

FANTASTIC!

Thats will help me reseal the same pump I have here, as yours..

Did you get all your seals from the same place, how did you go about getting them on order?

Cheers for the PERFECT write up!

regards
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project

A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
SJE32
Posts: 13
Joined: 18 Dec 2010, 22:25
Location:
My Cars:

Post by SJE32 »

citroenxm wrote:FANTASTIC!

Thats will help me reseal the same pump I have here, as yours..

Did you get all your seals from the same place, how did you go about getting them on order?

Cheers for the PERFECT write up!

regards
Paul
If you follow the PDF link it takes you to thier site, the seal kit comes with enought seals to do the whole pump, as it has 3 cyclic pumps all with the same seals you get 3 x "O"Rings top deck, 6 nylon 6 rumber for the seal (7) main shaft bearing (can not do that one as it requires a spec tool), and so on, one point I would make, the meatl shim ring, is a B.... to sit, i destroyed 2 of 3 before I got mine in, so unless its clear its damaged dont take it out.

Good luck with yours Paul, give your self pleanty of time to do it.
mattblack
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Same problem, need your advice

Post by mattblack »

Hi, firstly thanks for writting such a detailed procedure, very helpful.
Can you please give me some advice on the following as I have the same problem.
Did you use any special tools to lock the timing, or did you just use a couple of bolts through the crankshaft and camshaft pullies? Am I right to assume that a diesel pump on a common rail system does not require to be set up/timed as this would be controlled by the injectors?

I have acquired a diesel pump from a 406 and a 307, these look the same as the C5 pump but have different part numbers, can anyone advise if there is significant differences? I'm guessing that the system on a newer (307) may operate at a high pressure and may damage older injectors, would swapping the injectors as well as the pump solve this or am I better servicing the pump I have?

Finally, mine seemed to start leaking really bad after an oil change, and has since not been leaking as badly, although still suspect there's a leak there. Could this problem be linked to an oil change? As this was done over winter, could the cold weather have affected it?

One more final thought, under acceleration my mpg now drops to around 17, but at 50mph it's up to around 50mpg, do these this figures sound like I have a leak? Also, over 65 mph I sometimes get a vibration that feels like unballanced wheels. As this is only an intermittent problem is there any chance this could be linked to poor fuelling?

Appreciate any help/pointers on the above.

Matt
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