BX clutch
Moderator: RichardW
Sue -
The general plot is to remove ancillary components - enough to draw off the box from engine out under left wheelarch.
Done this twice - and this is the end of this plot. PERIOD [:0]
Next time it's engine & box out as a complete unit.
Sounds bothersome - but time is regained during this method - since it's MUCH easier to wriggle around with the heavy box (off - on from/to engine) when both box & engine is resting on level ground.
Unless of course you have access to a pit and a special purpose gearbox lift jack.
The only extra work to lift out the drivepack complete is :
1) Disjoint hydraulic piping from engine -
2) drain & disjoint cooling system -
3) remove hud -
4) lift up drivepack -
All the rest must be removed/disjoined anyway either method :
- driveaxles
- engine mounts
- exhaust downpipe joint
- battery & cabling
- air filter & hoses
- starter motor
(- HP pump on diesels)
If the clutch release arm protruding is the release bearing slider control - with auxillary L-shape lever arm - then the protruding arm MUST be held with wire (new bearing fitted in place) against the engine end.
If not - large riscs the release bearing becomes detached from release arm during reassembly of box - meaning box off again to reseat the bearing. Been there - tried it [xx(]
ALLWAYS remove the flywheel from engine and replace the crank oil seal found behind [B)]
if not - large risc this will fail within next 5000miles - contaminating your new clutch with oil [:(]
Flywheel bolts refitted dry w/ locktite - take care - easy to overdo the torque.
ALLWAYS replace the clutch as a complete set :
- friction disc
- driven (outer) plate assembly
- release bearing
NOTE : Clutches for BX16/19 engines differ upto/from 07/89 in the release bearing design - NOT interchangeable.
Upto 07/89 : release bearing steel hooks for release arm.
From 07/89 : release bearing plastic base.
The clutch design/diameter is the same.
The general plot is to remove ancillary components - enough to draw off the box from engine out under left wheelarch.
Done this twice - and this is the end of this plot. PERIOD [:0]
Next time it's engine & box out as a complete unit.
Sounds bothersome - but time is regained during this method - since it's MUCH easier to wriggle around with the heavy box (off - on from/to engine) when both box & engine is resting on level ground.
Unless of course you have access to a pit and a special purpose gearbox lift jack.
The only extra work to lift out the drivepack complete is :
1) Disjoint hydraulic piping from engine -
2) drain & disjoint cooling system -
3) remove hud -
4) lift up drivepack -
All the rest must be removed/disjoined anyway either method :
- driveaxles
- engine mounts
- exhaust downpipe joint
- battery & cabling
- air filter & hoses
- starter motor
(- HP pump on diesels)
If the clutch release arm protruding is the release bearing slider control - with auxillary L-shape lever arm - then the protruding arm MUST be held with wire (new bearing fitted in place) against the engine end.
If not - large riscs the release bearing becomes detached from release arm during reassembly of box - meaning box off again to reseat the bearing. Been there - tried it [xx(]
ALLWAYS remove the flywheel from engine and replace the crank oil seal found behind [B)]
if not - large risc this will fail within next 5000miles - contaminating your new clutch with oil [:(]
Flywheel bolts refitted dry w/ locktite - take care - easy to overdo the torque.
ALLWAYS replace the clutch as a complete set :
- friction disc
- driven (outer) plate assembly
- release bearing
NOTE : Clutches for BX16/19 engines differ upto/from 07/89 in the release bearing design - NOT interchangeable.
Upto 07/89 : release bearing steel hooks for release arm.
From 07/89 : release bearing plastic base.
The clutch design/diameter is the same.
Sue,
I tend to think as Anders does on doing a full on removal for reasons I'll outline below, however, I think Vanny off this board has done a clutch job insitu & found a few of the tricks associated with it that I've no doubt he'll gladly pass on.
As a long term Citroen owner, I usually opt for the full disembowelling for a few reasons including the fact that it gives you easy access to things like height correctors and octopus as well as hydraulic lines, cross members & sensors & switches at the rear of the engine, the kind of stuff normally fairly inaccessible. Any doubts about the exhaust manifold gasket can easily be put to rest & rack & CV boots become a breeze.
I think this all depends on a few factors such as if you own or have access to an engine crane, workspace & the amount & location of workspace.
As Anders says, once out of the car as a unit, the clutch job is much simpler, however, if you're pressed for time & need the car almost daily then you must have stronger willpower than we have as usually when we take a motor out, which is when the "tradesman" in me rises to the surface & a component replacement turns into a restoration project. This of course takes more time, but leads to a greater life expectancy for the car which could explain why I still have CX that I bought in 1984, one in 1990 and a BX 16V that has low mileage but has often been described "as new" due to all he incidentals that I keep replacing; then again, I do live in a Country where a good 16V will pull $10,000 - $12,000 as opposed to the 100 - 300 UKpounds as you get over there...which tends to give me the incentive.[:D][:D]
Alan S [;)]
I tend to think as Anders does on doing a full on removal for reasons I'll outline below, however, I think Vanny off this board has done a clutch job insitu & found a few of the tricks associated with it that I've no doubt he'll gladly pass on.
As a long term Citroen owner, I usually opt for the full disembowelling for a few reasons including the fact that it gives you easy access to things like height correctors and octopus as well as hydraulic lines, cross members & sensors & switches at the rear of the engine, the kind of stuff normally fairly inaccessible. Any doubts about the exhaust manifold gasket can easily be put to rest & rack & CV boots become a breeze.
I think this all depends on a few factors such as if you own or have access to an engine crane, workspace & the amount & location of workspace.
As Anders says, once out of the car as a unit, the clutch job is much simpler, however, if you're pressed for time & need the car almost daily then you must have stronger willpower than we have as usually when we take a motor out, which is when the "tradesman" in me rises to the surface & a component replacement turns into a restoration project. This of course takes more time, but leads to a greater life expectancy for the car which could explain why I still have CX that I bought in 1984, one in 1990 and a BX 16V that has low mileage but has often been described "as new" due to all he incidentals that I keep replacing; then again, I do live in a Country where a good 16V will pull $10,000 - $12,000 as opposed to the 100 - 300 UKpounds as you get over there...which tends to give me the incentive.[:D][:D]
Alan S [;)]
-
tomsheppard
- Posts: 1801
- Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 14:46
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
I'too have been told by someone who normally knows what he is doing that it is a real swine to slip just the box but I would be tempted to do it. You will save a lot of time and aggravation if you get it thoroughly steam cleaned first and then just drown it in Plus Gas or WD40. Get a big ball of string to tie cables, rods and wiring in place as well. Good luck.
Anders method is fine if you have a proper hoist, which I don't.
I've done two clutch changes on BX 19's on my own and I have not had a problem doing it in situ. Main thing is to get the front of the car high so that you have room to get the box out from underneath. Refitting can be a pain but fitting long pieces of threaded studding into the top two fixing bolt holes on the engine side allows the weight of the gearbox to be taken whilst the box is offered up to the clutch. I also use a small hoist(remember the Haltrack mini hoist?) which I use to lift the box up.
As Anders say there are were changes in the clutch design, on the GTi I was caught out, bit of both in use, according to the storeman at Andyspares this does happen from time to time.
Bob
I've done two clutch changes on BX 19's on my own and I have not had a problem doing it in situ. Main thing is to get the front of the car high so that you have room to get the box out from underneath. Refitting can be a pain but fitting long pieces of threaded studding into the top two fixing bolt holes on the engine side allows the weight of the gearbox to be taken whilst the box is offered up to the clutch. I also use a small hoist(remember the Haltrack mini hoist?) which I use to lift the box up.
As Anders say there are were changes in the clutch design, on the GTi I was caught out, bit of both in use, according to the storeman at Andyspares this does happen from time to time.
Bob
Bob -
The threaded longstud method is new to me - makes me reconsider -
The biggest problem IS in fact offering up the box to engine on reassembly.
Clearly a pair of longstuds would make the whole thing more a push-on job - rather than the absolute breath taking lifting/balancing/mating job.
Another point that was a real bugger to me - was the gear selector arms constantly catching the antiroll bar - very little space to clear.
The threaded longstud method is new to me - makes me reconsider -
The biggest problem IS in fact offering up the box to engine on reassembly.
Clearly a pair of longstuds would make the whole thing more a push-on job - rather than the absolute breath taking lifting/balancing/mating job.
Another point that was a real bugger to me - was the gear selector arms constantly catching the antiroll bar - very little space to clear.
Anders, One up to me then[:)]
What I actually used was a cylinder head bolt (may not have been a BX one, can't remember) with the head cut off and the cut end rounded, makes for much easier re-fitting of the box. If you use studding you have the additional advantage of being able to use a nut to help pull the box on, but this must be done with care or else there could be tears [:(!]
Bob
What I actually used was a cylinder head bolt (may not have been a BX one, can't remember) with the head cut off and the cut end rounded, makes for much easier re-fitting of the box. If you use studding you have the additional advantage of being able to use a nut to help pull the box on, but this must be done with care or else there could be tears [:(!]
Bob