Xantia Starter Bolts
Moderator: RichardW
Xantia Starter Bolts
Afternoon All,
Hoping I might be able to pick someone's brains please.
I need to change the starter in my 2.0i 16V MkII.
Wondering if anyone might know - off the top off their head, what size and type the starter bolt heads are. Sorry to ask, but I don't normally see much daylight during the week at the moment, and need to try and have everything ready to dive in on Saturday morning.
Thanks in advance:
Ian
Hoping I might be able to pick someone's brains please.
I need to change the starter in my 2.0i 16V MkII.
Wondering if anyone might know - off the top off their head, what size and type the starter bolt heads are. Sorry to ask, but I don't normally see much daylight during the week at the moment, and need to try and have everything ready to dive in on Saturday morning.
Thanks in advance:
Ian
- Xaccers
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- Location: Milling around Milton Keynes
- My Cars:
- x 184
XUD has allen bolts, and the double thread-ended one which I think may be a 15/17 spanner job.
1.9TD+ SX Xantia Estate (Cassy) running on 100% veg
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)
DIY sphere tool
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)
DIY sphere tool
and they'll be TIGHT and access is restricted
Now using '00 Xantia LX HDI, pov spec
My past Citroens :-
'00 Xantia SX HDI, now dead due to accident
'99 Xantia HDI 110 Exclusive, RIP
'97 Xantia TD SX
'96 Xantia TD LX
'96 ZX TD
'89 BX TD
'88 AX GT
'79 CX2400 Pallas (scrapped )
& a couple of Peugeots !
My past Citroens :-
'00 Xantia SX HDI, now dead due to accident
'99 Xantia HDI 110 Exclusive, RIP
'97 Xantia TD SX
'96 Xantia TD LX
'96 ZX TD
'89 BX TD
'88 AX GT
'79 CX2400 Pallas (scrapped )
& a couple of Peugeots !
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Citroën Berlingo
Alfa 147 - x 93
Same engine/car - just did this recently. Battery out, airbox out, throttle body off.
Although you need a deepwall socket for the stud-bolt.
If you have indoor workspace think about removal of the inlet manifold, and draining of the coolant (coupled with removal of the upper hose) as it makes the work much easier to see.
Only real "gotcha" for me, was the reconnection of terminal nuts on the rear; the flanged connector to the charging loom needs to be carefully aligned or it butts against the solenoid connector eye. It's one aspect where a view with the fanimold off, really helps.
I would also suggets a can of brake cleaner spray to prep the bellhousing thread area when reassembling - you need to crank the bolts decently tight and grit will affect this ability. Often I pillage empty bottles of contact cleaner or similar for their tube-type nozzles, which allow much better direction of the cleaning spray.
A final note on the starter - if it's a Valeo D6RA series, these are fairly readily rebuilt - maybe there is a partial credit available against the new unit?
Although you need a deepwall socket for the stud-bolt.
If you have indoor workspace think about removal of the inlet manifold, and draining of the coolant (coupled with removal of the upper hose) as it makes the work much easier to see.
Only real "gotcha" for me, was the reconnection of terminal nuts on the rear; the flanged connector to the charging loom needs to be carefully aligned or it butts against the solenoid connector eye. It's one aspect where a view with the fanimold off, really helps.
I would also suggets a can of brake cleaner spray to prep the bellhousing thread area when reassembling - you need to crank the bolts decently tight and grit will affect this ability. Often I pillage empty bottles of contact cleaner or similar for their tube-type nozzles, which allow much better direction of the cleaning spray.
A final note on the starter - if it's a Valeo D6RA series, these are fairly readily rebuilt - maybe there is a partial credit available against the new unit?
Fanimold and strained tool aside, job jobbed.
In the end, even the 3/8" drive hex key was too big - clutch lever in the way. A standard 8mm Allen key with a bit of added leverage shifted it though. The stud succumbed to a conventional spanner - luckily, since I don't have any deep sockets.
The old starter was a Valeo. Not sure what the new one is, unlabelled and much bigger (£30 ish plus postage new via eBay). Had to modify the wiring slightly - replace the ring tag on the switch wire with a spade tag, file down the square tag on the main. Otherwise, went fairly smoothly - except breaking the radiator grille - trying to open the frozen bonnet !
Thanks again everyone !
Ian
In the end, even the 3/8" drive hex key was too big - clutch lever in the way. A standard 8mm Allen key with a bit of added leverage shifted it though. The stud succumbed to a conventional spanner - luckily, since I don't have any deep sockets.
The old starter was a Valeo. Not sure what the new one is, unlabelled and much bigger (£30 ish plus postage new via eBay). Had to modify the wiring slightly - replace the ring tag on the switch wire with a spade tag, file down the square tag on the main. Otherwise, went fairly smoothly - except breaking the radiator grille - trying to open the frozen bonnet !
Thanks again everyone !
Ian