Xantia Starter Bolts

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ids987
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Xantia Starter Bolts

Post by ids987 »

Afternoon All,

Hoping I might be able to pick someone's brains please.
I need to change the starter in my 2.0i 16V MkII.
Wondering if anyone might know - off the top off their head, what size and type the starter bolt heads are. Sorry to ask, but I don't normally see much daylight during the week at the moment, and need to try and have everything ready to dive in on Saturday morning.

Thanks in advance:
Ian
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Chris570
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Post by Chris570 »

been a 13mm on TU's i see no reason why the XU would be bigger
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ids987
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Post by ids987 »

Many thanks. Is that with a normal six sided head ?
In the Haynes BOL, though the piccy isn't very clear, it looked like the heads were round, so I thought they were probably Allen or Torx headed - which was my main concern.

Thanks Again:
Ian
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Post by Chris570 »

I'd be surprised if they were....

but yes 6 sided if its normal bolts
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Post by Xaccers »

XUD has allen bolts, and the double thread-ended one which I think may be a 15/17 spanner job.
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Post by Chris570 »

Xac wrote:XUD has allen bolts, and the double thread-ended one which I think may be a 15/17 spanner job.
Ah nuts (no pun intended)

my bad
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Post by RichardW »

service.citroen says it uses the same fixing as the XUD - albeit in a different orientation - so as Xac says, 2 off allen bolts and a stud.
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Post by ids987 »

Thanks again - sounds like it's as I feared.
Never mind - just need to arm myself with the right tools.

Ian
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Post by HDI »

and they'll be TIGHT and access is restricted :twisted:
Now using '00 Xantia LX HDI, pov spec :(
My past Citroens :-
'00 Xantia SX HDI, now dead due to accident :(
'99 Xantia HDI 110 Exclusive, RIP :(
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'96 Xantia TD LX
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'89 BX TD
'88 AX GT
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& a couple of Peugeots !
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Post by citronut »

the two allan bolts are 8mm key and the stud which has a 16mm hex machined onto it,

its best to use allen bits you attatch to a half inch ratcht


regards malcolm
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Post by ids987 »

Thanks Malcolm, went to Halfords on the way home - got a 3/8" drive set up to 10mm. Got spammers and sockets for the stud, so hopefully should be tooled up for the attack.......
addo
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Post by addo »

Same engine/car - just did this recently. Battery out, airbox out, throttle body off.

Although you need a deepwall socket for the stud-bolt.

If you have indoor workspace think about removal of the inlet manifold, and draining of the coolant (coupled with removal of the upper hose) as it makes the work much easier to see.

Only real "gotcha" for me, was the reconnection of terminal nuts on the rear; the flanged connector to the charging loom needs to be carefully aligned or it butts against the solenoid connector eye. It's one aspect where a view with the fanimold off, really helps.

I would also suggets a can of brake cleaner spray to prep the bellhousing thread area when reassembling - you need to crank the bolts decently tight and grit will affect this ability. Often I pillage empty bottles of contact cleaner or similar for their tube-type nozzles, which allow much better direction of the cleaning spray.

A final note on the starter - if it's a Valeo D6RA series, these are fairly readily rebuilt - maybe there is a partial credit available against the new unit?
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Post by citronut »

i would not use 3/8th drive on starter bolts it is better to use 1/2 innch drive, less strain on your tool,

Adam wrote
"with the fanimold "

is the a herbal remady for this Adam :lol:


regards malcolm
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Post by addo »

If I pursue that line, we may both get banned! :lol:

Took me a day to remove the starter, clean, strip and rebuild then reassemble everything. I suspect Malcom can do this in about three and a half hours.
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Post by ids987 »

Fanimold and strained tool aside, job jobbed.
In the end, even the 3/8" drive hex key was too big - clutch lever in the way. A standard 8mm Allen key with a bit of added leverage shifted it though. The stud succumbed to a conventional spanner - luckily, since I don't have any deep sockets.
The old starter was a Valeo. Not sure what the new one is, unlabelled and much bigger (£30 ish plus postage new via eBay). Had to modify the wiring slightly - replace the ring tag on the switch wire with a spade tag, file down the square tag on the main. Otherwise, went fairly smoothly - except breaking the radiator grille - trying to open the frozen bonnet !

Thanks again everyone !
Ian
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