Xantia Blower Controller (quick question)
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Xantia Blower Controller (quick question)
Yep, mine has decided to run at full speed regardless off the settings. I've found the guide on replacing the transistors and have ordered them from Farnell but what isn't obvious (and to save myself rolling around in the footwell before I actually have to), where exactly is the control module? Attached to the motor?
Cheers!
Cheers!
Martin
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Old Faithful: Silver V-reg Xantia HDi Exclusive, died due to tin worm @ 259k miles
New Faithful: Silver W-reg Xantia HDi Exclusive, 169k miles and counting...
Previous: Various BX's, XM V6 24,
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Old Faithful: Silver V-reg Xantia HDi Exclusive, died due to tin worm @ 259k miles
New Faithful: Silver W-reg Xantia HDi Exclusive, 169k miles and counting...
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Venturi Atlantique 300, Alpine A610
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Have a look at this link for removal of module
http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... tor#p10790
Then Jims guide here
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... transistor
http://www.club-xm.co.uk/forum/viewtopi ... tor#p10790
Then Jims guide here
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... transistor
(95) XM Silver 2.1td Exclusive.
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
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(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
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I can't view the XM forum - any chance you could post it here please?
Martin
-------
Old Faithful: Silver V-reg Xantia HDi Exclusive, died due to tin worm @ 259k miles
New Faithful: Silver W-reg Xantia HDi Exclusive, 169k miles and counting...
Previous: Various BX's, XM V6 24,
Venturi Atlantique 300, Alpine A610
-------
Old Faithful: Silver V-reg Xantia HDi Exclusive, died due to tin worm @ 259k miles
New Faithful: Silver W-reg Xantia HDi Exclusive, 169k miles and counting...
Previous: Various BX's, XM V6 24,
Venturi Atlantique 300, Alpine A610
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Heres the post in full:
Heres the pics from my disasembly, i replaced the transistors, I was going to do the brushes but mine still have a fair amount of life in them!
This is the removed motor obviously...
Where the cables go into the side of the plastic casing remove it (i did not realise that this could be done as shown in later pictures)
.
This on below shows on of the three holes where you will need to insert a flat head screw driver and gently prise up the rubber blocks (i found going round doing each one a bit at a time to be best.) whilst pulling up gently on the blades.
Below is the removed motor with blades attached and the attached wires i should have removed.
The next picture shows my seriously corroded heatsink with transistors attached. I contacted Sir Jim of the FCF who was able to supply replacement ones.
This board will need removing, mine was so corroded i had to drill the screws out, hopefully yours will not be this bad!
Now the fun bit, with a suitable sized drill bit remove the rivets holding the transistors in place, then turn the board over and using a soldering iron and solder sucker remove the solder holding the transistors in place and wiggle them free!
Then clean the area the that the transistor sat on and apply some heatsink paste to the new transistors (only a relatively thin layer) and place the transistors in position. This can be very fiddly and i had to use the soldering iron as well to clear the way through.
Then use two (M3.5 i think) bolts to secure each transistor, sadly i did not have the correct ones and had to improvise. Then solder them in position
Here is the picture of the new transistors in situ.
Then simply reassemble and hope it works...
There you have it, hope that helps and i hope your transistors do not need replacing
Thats the post, not sure if it will display properly.....
Heres the pics from my disasembly, i replaced the transistors, I was going to do the brushes but mine still have a fair amount of life in them!
This is the removed motor obviously...
Where the cables go into the side of the plastic casing remove it (i did not realise that this could be done as shown in later pictures)
.
This on below shows on of the three holes where you will need to insert a flat head screw driver and gently prise up the rubber blocks (i found going round doing each one a bit at a time to be best.) whilst pulling up gently on the blades.
Below is the removed motor with blades attached and the attached wires i should have removed.
The next picture shows my seriously corroded heatsink with transistors attached. I contacted Sir Jim of the FCF who was able to supply replacement ones.
This board will need removing, mine was so corroded i had to drill the screws out, hopefully yours will not be this bad!
Now the fun bit, with a suitable sized drill bit remove the rivets holding the transistors in place, then turn the board over and using a soldering iron and solder sucker remove the solder holding the transistors in place and wiggle them free!
Then clean the area the that the transistor sat on and apply some heatsink paste to the new transistors (only a relatively thin layer) and place the transistors in position. This can be very fiddly and i had to use the soldering iron as well to clear the way through.
Then use two (M3.5 i think) bolts to secure each transistor, sadly i did not have the correct ones and had to improvise. Then solder them in position
Here is the picture of the new transistors in situ.
Then simply reassemble and hope it works...
There you have it, hope that helps and i hope your transistors do not need replacing
Thats the post, not sure if it will display properly.....
(95) XM Silver 2.1td Exclusive.
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
GPZ500s
(87) Cx 2.5 DTR T1 undergoing major cosmetic surgery.
GPZ500s
- CitroJim
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Looks excellent to me Dave
Just a note, often it's unnecessary to remove the motor complete. It'll flex in its housing just enough to allow the module to pop out after undoing it's mounting screws...
Very important to solder the transistors AFTER mounting them and tightening the screws otherwise strain can be out on the circuit board and it may not earth to the heatsink correctly...
Just a note, often it's unnecessary to remove the motor complete. It'll flex in its housing just enough to allow the module to pop out after undoing it's mounting screws...
Very important to solder the transistors AFTER mounting them and tightening the screws otherwise strain can be out on the circuit board and it may not earth to the heatsink correctly...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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Guys, that's absolutely brilliant. Trannies are already on their way from Farnell.
THANKS!
THANKS!
Martin
-------
Old Faithful: Silver V-reg Xantia HDi Exclusive, died due to tin worm @ 259k miles
New Faithful: Silver W-reg Xantia HDi Exclusive, 169k miles and counting...
Previous: Various BX's, XM V6 24,
Venturi Atlantique 300, Alpine A610
-------
Old Faithful: Silver V-reg Xantia HDi Exclusive, died due to tin worm @ 259k miles
New Faithful: Silver W-reg Xantia HDi Exclusive, 169k miles and counting...
Previous: Various BX's, XM V6 24,
Venturi Atlantique 300, Alpine A610
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Be sure to order the right ones!Stunned Monkey wrote:Guys, that's absolutely brilliant. Trannies are already on their way from Farnell.
THANKS!
1.9TD+ SX Xantia Estate (Cassy) running on 100% veg
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)
DIY sphere tool
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)
DIY sphere tool
- CitroJim
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I once heard of a case on a vintage wireless forum I once frequented where a young lad couldn't access said forum because the parental controls set up on his firewall would not allow anything containing the word "tranny"..
Unfortunate as years ago the term "tranny radio" was in very common usage. Everyone had one.
The forum in question had to issue an edict that henceforth the word tranny could not be used as a diminutive of transistor.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
- CitroJim
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Yes, I'd forgotten that one! In the TV trade we used to speak of Line Output Trannies. Easier than trying to make a pronounceable word out of LOPT...Clogzz wrote: We trogs used it as a diminutive of transformer.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...