Hi!
My '406 has 101,700 on the clock and as I have no idea as to when the TB was done, I'm preparing to replace it!!! 2.0 HDi 110, engine code RHZ, ECU setup Bosch EDC15P (I think!!!)
1) How much damage will occur if it breaks?!
2) Can anyone offer me the correct GSF stock codes? Do I need any tensioners, auxiliary pulleys, etc., and what about the water-pump?
3) Being a manual tensioner rather than the XUD's automatic one, the Book Of Fairy Tales says I need a SEEM gauge or its equivalent!!! Is it possible to hire these things or does anybody know of a cheaper satisfactory alternative tool I can use? Anybody seen any SEEM meters offered spares or repair on fleabay etc? (I can repair a broken one!!!)
Chris Williams
Timing belt woes!!!
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Toby_HDi
- Posts: 1354
- Joined: 05 Jan 2008, 21:31
- x 3
Chris
1. If you're lucky, it'll break the rockers rather than bending valves, this seems to be more likely but I'm sure you know the worst case scenario......either way, get it done.
2. Cambelt kit - 129PC0140
Waterpump - 170PC0200
You may also want to change the aux belt and its tensioner/idler while you're there. Its up to you.
3. The twist method is usually ok, you should be able to JUST twist the belt 90 degrees on its longest run. Gauges you can buy but they are eye wateringly expensive. Never seen them for hire either. There was one on Ebay recently that I missed, I'm told they crop up occasionally but not often. There are some FCFers with them, its just a case of whether they'd be willing to help and are close enough.
1. If you're lucky, it'll break the rockers rather than bending valves, this seems to be more likely but I'm sure you know the worst case scenario......either way, get it done.
2. Cambelt kit - 129PC0140
Waterpump - 170PC0200
You may also want to change the aux belt and its tensioner/idler while you're there. Its up to you.
3. The twist method is usually ok, you should be able to JUST twist the belt 90 degrees on its longest run. Gauges you can buy but they are eye wateringly expensive. Never seen them for hire either. There was one on Ebay recently that I missed, I'm told they crop up occasionally but not often. There are some FCFers with them, its just a case of whether they'd be willing to help and are close enough.
Toby
Previous:
2004 Peugeot 407 HDi 138 SE Luxury Pack
2001 S2 Xantia HDi 110 SX
2001 Peugeot 406 V6 Coupé
1998 S2 Xantia Activa
2000 S2 Xantia HDi 110 SX
1999 Peugeot 406 2.0 16v Estate
Previous:
2004 Peugeot 407 HDi 138 SE Luxury Pack
2001 S2 Xantia HDi 110 SX
2001 Peugeot 406 V6 Coupé
1998 S2 Xantia Activa
2000 S2 Xantia HDi 110 SX
1999 Peugeot 406 2.0 16v Estate
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citronut
- Posts: 10937
- Joined: 29 Apr 2005, 00:46
- x 94
-
RichardW
- Forum Treasurer
- Posts: 12513
- Joined: 07 Aug 2002, 17:12
- x 1457
My Xantia HDi 110 is in urgent neet of TB replacement...just finding the time and assistance to do it! My obs so far....
You might as well do the tensioners - the kit is not dear (£55 + VAT I think).
The top bolt on the bottom cover (which is also the bottom bolt on the top cover) is also a water pump bolt, so you might as well replace the pump while you're at it - and anyway if it's a keeper it's bound to need doing before another 100k has gone past!
If this is post 2000 engine there is a water pipe down the back of the block which obscures the (already) awkward back bolt on the top cover - I reckon a 10mm ratchet spanner will get this.
The cover bolts are loctited in (WHY?????)
On a Xantia at least it looks necessary to remove the torque link on the upper engine mount to the inner wing - unless you've got v small bendy hands! 16mm socket and ring spanner required to get this off. This is prone to breaking up on Activas, so be prepared to replace it if the bush is broken (it's only about £30)
The crank pulley bolt is v tight and loctited in - if you've not got an impact driver, then you will need a long bar and decent 22mm socket to get it out - and do it with the engine hot, as it softens the loctite.
DickieG indicated that the engine tends to tip when taken off its mounting, so I plan to remove the stud nut on the wing first, jack the engine up whilst holding it in place, then remove the torx bolts into the engine side mount afterwards - do not want to wreck the threads in the mount!
Access to the crank timing hole behind the started looks tough - I'm hoping to go in from underneath, but removing the fuel filter may provide an access from above the starter (as per older XUDs).
You might as well do the tensioners - the kit is not dear (£55 + VAT I think).
The top bolt on the bottom cover (which is also the bottom bolt on the top cover) is also a water pump bolt, so you might as well replace the pump while you're at it - and anyway if it's a keeper it's bound to need doing before another 100k has gone past!
If this is post 2000 engine there is a water pipe down the back of the block which obscures the (already) awkward back bolt on the top cover - I reckon a 10mm ratchet spanner will get this.
The cover bolts are loctited in (WHY?????)
On a Xantia at least it looks necessary to remove the torque link on the upper engine mount to the inner wing - unless you've got v small bendy hands! 16mm socket and ring spanner required to get this off. This is prone to breaking up on Activas, so be prepared to replace it if the bush is broken (it's only about £30)
The crank pulley bolt is v tight and loctited in - if you've not got an impact driver, then you will need a long bar and decent 22mm socket to get it out - and do it with the engine hot, as it softens the loctite.
DickieG indicated that the engine tends to tip when taken off its mounting, so I plan to remove the stud nut on the wing first, jack the engine up whilst holding it in place, then remove the torx bolts into the engine side mount afterwards - do not want to wreck the threads in the mount!
Access to the crank timing hole behind the started looks tough - I'm hoping to go in from underneath, but removing the fuel filter may provide an access from above the starter (as per older XUDs).
Richard W
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citroenxm
- Fallen Hero
- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- x 70
HDi engines are designed to break the rocker fingers - and cause NO valve or piston damage...
Ive just done a HDi Cam belt write up, but awaiting off line apporval before its put onto the How To section of the fourm..
The car was a HDi 110bhp Xantia, on a 1999 V plate..
Ive done about 5 of these now... with no special tools, and they are no harder then XUD's... if anything a little easyer.. The Fuel pump IS NOT timed, so theres no pins to put in there! Only the Crank (Same place as XUD) and Cam are pinned.. The Cam Pin position is slightly further round then the XUD... XUD was at 4 o clock, HDi is at ABOUT 7 o clock.. possibly 6:30 position...(between 6 and 7 o clock
)
Remove the small EGR's and Yes - remove the tourqe Link, for space.. Engine mount has to come off, and the CAM Cover comes off before the Pump Cover as they are wraped inside each other!
DO NOT start the engine with the small EGR solinoids disconnected, I did it and it put the Engine managment light on!! I luckily have a Lexia to put it out..
Paul
Ive just done a HDi Cam belt write up, but awaiting off line apporval before its put onto the How To section of the fourm..
The car was a HDi 110bhp Xantia, on a 1999 V plate..
Ive done about 5 of these now... with no special tools, and they are no harder then XUD's... if anything a little easyer.. The Fuel pump IS NOT timed, so theres no pins to put in there! Only the Crank (Same place as XUD) and Cam are pinned.. The Cam Pin position is slightly further round then the XUD... XUD was at 4 o clock, HDi is at ABOUT 7 o clock.. possibly 6:30 position...(between 6 and 7 o clock
)Remove the small EGR's and Yes - remove the tourqe Link, for space.. Engine mount has to come off, and the CAM Cover comes off before the Pump Cover as they are wraped inside each other!
DO NOT start the engine with the small EGR solinoids disconnected, I did it and it put the Engine managment light on!! I luckily have a Lexia to put it out..
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
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citronut
- Posts: 10937
- Joined: 29 Apr 2005, 00:46
- x 94
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steelcityuk
- Posts: 1053
- Joined: 03 Jul 2006, 21:51
- x 1
Hi,
I've used one of these in the past, easy to use.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Facom-Timing-Belt ... 2c54962910
Steve.
I've used one of these in the past, easy to use.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Facom-Timing-Belt ... 2c54962910
Steve.
not applicable