Partner 1.9d dw8 engine change - wont start **SOLVED**

[john22]

I have a 99 1.9d partner and about 2 months ago the headgasket went, i think the block had cracked and the whole cooling system filled with gunky oily paste - my mate who used to own the van put 6 eggs in the system to try and cure a radiator leak - big mistake.

Anyway i ripped the lot out, found a dw8 engine from a 05 citroen berlingo, now i know about pumps being coded to ecu's bla bla bla so i took everything off my old engine - diesel pump, injectors, even sensors and fitted it to the new engine - timed all up with new cambelt and a fair few gaskets, and have just tried to start and get nothing, just turns over.
The glow plugs are heating up and the diesel system is self-bleeding so i need some advice from someone who knows about these engines please.

One thing though, there are two screw in plugs down in the engine bay on the chassis leg - passenger side, now i was going to clean up the chassis leg so i started disconnecting these plugs and a month later i cant for the life of me remember if the smaller one was actually connected and where the plug has gone because there is no plug anywhere? Ive attached a pic below,




EDIT::::

Ive just removed the pipes on top of the injectors, (the screw on ones from the fuel pump) and turned it over, the pipes are wet but doesnt seem like theres any fuel getting pumped through - should you be able to visibly see diesel 'squirting' out or not???.

One thing that I did notice about the pump i have on the van now is that when you turn the sprocket, it turns freely, and the pump i got with the new engine you turn it and it has compression - if that makes sense, if the pumps knackerd then im f***ed because theres no way i can afford to have a new ecu programmed to another pump.

If anyone has any idea on this please post a reply asap as I need to make progress with the van one way or another.

Sorry for the loooong post! [/img]

[spider]

If you take the pump from your old engine, thats all you really need. If you used the pump from the new one you would need its key at the very least.

Not sure regarding wiring, although those type of plugs are known to corrode. Check you have not forgotten one and its hidden somewhere, it has been known. I've done this when doing a clutch...

Regarding fuel. Tighten pipes. Now, slacken the pipe at the injector end (just one or two cylinders will do) , wrap rag around them. Crank engine for about 2 to 5 seconds (do not bother to wait for heater plugs light) then turn off. Go and check for fuel.

If you have fuel, your stop solenoid is opening, so at the moment you can rule that out. Tighten pipes back anyway.

Talking of glowplugs, you have connected them back have you ? and they are working ? , it will eventually (!) start without them but expect about 30 seconds cranking or so... You can double this if you have had the fuel system open too.

Check leakoff pipes carefully. Splits here can cause odd faults (although usually only on Bosch not Lucas pumps)

You have connected feed / return pipes to filter / pump correctly ? (it may not run if it tries to grab fuel up the return pipe, if that makes sense)

Regarding compression on the pump, Bosch ones tend to have more than Lucas, that's half normal. You do from what you say have fuel present at the injectors though.

At 05, it will be a semi electronic pump (timing advance etc is under ECU control) although it will run without it, just very badly (you will know as it will be knocking like hell) but it will run.

My thoughts are a lot of air in the fuel (if you have clear pipe between filter and pump look for air, if the fuel is milky it is really bad) , or something simple like no preheating (I know you said its working but carefully check)

They are not quite self bleeding, they are in a way but it will take ages. Ensure you press the primer a few times to at least ensure fuel is getting through properly. As above look for air in that clear pipe area.

[siraff]

It's not a self bleeding system. There's no physical way it can be unless you can spin the engine to about 3000rpm and keep it there for a little while.
You need to make sure all the push on connectors for the fuel lines are on properly (common mistake) and prime the fuel filter with the pump. After that crack the nuts on the injector tops and turn it a few times to let the air out. Re-tighten and it should fire up.
If you're getting nothing after this you have some other issue than fuel.

[john22]

Hi Andy,

Right, I unscrewed the end 2 injector pipes, put a clean sheet of paper underneath and turned over for around 5 secs and no fuel came out, here how ive got the main fuel lines, i dont think they can be the wrong way around because theyre a different size, so do you think the solenoid is the problem?

[spider]

If there's no fuel at the injectors it will never ever start.

Unplug return line from pump (if in doubt, the return line is the one with the little rubber leakoff pipes between the injectors connected to it) usually anyway.

Now, that outlet stub on the pump, either put a length of hose on it or wrap a rag around it. Crank the engine for about 5 seconds, no more!

Examine that 'return' on the pump for fuel. I cannot remember if it can actually circulate around and back out the outlet if the solenoid is stuck shut, I think not otherwise you'd never get any pressure up with the primer.

It does sound like your problem, no fuel delivery, carefully double check the pump wiring. The solenoid is quite difficult to do on these as its not a normal one once you cut the amouring off (its probably one of the most difficult to get the correct manual solenoid for to be honest)

If you have no fuel coming out the return pipe on the pump then suspect the wiring or the pump itself.

[john22]

Ok i disconnected the return and turned it over for 3-4 seconds, after i stop a small amount of fuel will come out.

Any ideas mate?

[spider]

The solenoid is not that black switch that's something unrelated, don't worry about that (if your curious its either post heat and or egr control, both of which it will run without anyway, and probably just as well as normal)

The solenoid is under some hardended casing that is difficult to remove without taking the pump to bits (not possible in situ really)

On the side of the pump (looking at the pump from looking into the bonnet the right hand side, opposite end to the plastic pipes), look for some multiplugs, typically green or blue. If these are wrong or not fitted it will not run. There will be some wiring coming out of the casting on the same side (about an inch or two to the right of the black switch and a bit down)

You really need to see one fitted to see what I mean, I still think you have something like a plug not fitted.

[john22]

Sorry mate i just edited that post because i checked it first time and some wiring was still disconnected and did it again and fuel came out.

[john22]

i know the plugs you mean and they are connected, im really stumped!

i might try and find another van to look at over the weekend.

[spider]

Can you recheck the injector test (undo one pipe and put a rag around it) then crank for a few seconds like you did last time now you have sorted that plug ? , If you have no fuel at the injectors either the solenoid is stuck, the pump or immobiliser is faulty or its so full of air it has no fuel present there.

I'm still thinking you have a plug missing off the pump or elsewhere. If you google for 'DW8 Fuel Pump' and look at the images, you should be able to see one (note its good at returning Bosch pics which are not the same but you will see the multiplugs on the side of the pump)

Look around that black main plug you put a pic of on earlier too, I'm still of the mind you have one of those missing (its easy to trap it out of the way or something when re-assembling)

[john22]

did the injector test again and still no fuel and checked the 2 plugs on the side of the pump and still no luck.

I think that missing plug must be something to do with it but cant find it anywhere, i followed 3 of the wires from that plug up to the fuse box where they have been cut so god knows whats happened unless someones been tampering with it there no other explanation!

[john22]

thanks for all your help and advice Andy I will have to check the wiring on another van, if you think of anything else let me know cheers.

Just one more thing i noticed - Theres an orange light in the dash with a key on it, 9/10 it will come on with the ignition and go straight out however i noticed about twice out of the million times i turned it over it came on when cranking it?

Ohh and..should the primer go hard? i keep pushing it down and it doesnt seem to go hard so would this suggest air in the system?

[john22]

Loves it - just got it running

You were right Andy, it was the wiring, there was an extra o-ring connector which origanally i put on the starter on top of the other one - which never seemed right having 3 on a starter and after having a careful look i found a 10mm bolt on the block with a snapped o ring connector on it and so i put it on primed it up and voila!! started, got no water in it and power steering pipes hanging off so fluid went everywhere

Im so damn happy!!!!

Thanks Andy you have been a great help.

[spider]

You're very welcome , good to hear it runs