Making an Activa strut

Deanxm · Unread post by **Deanxm** » 29 Oct 2010, 20:55

Do you think it would be possible to make an Activa compatible N/S strut, i was thinking of cutting the ram mount off of my leaking strut (never seen a leaky strut before

) and weld it onto a easy to find hydractive strut? the only thing that concerns me is damaging the strut whilst welding to it...........what do you all think?.
It doesnt look like the strut can come apart either to replace the seals

.

Any advise gratefully recieved.

D

addo · Unread post by **addo** » 30 Oct 2010, 02:08

I think you need to be a gun welder.

You have up to 75 bar in the levelling rams, over a small piston area - maybe 30mm diameter? That can produce an acting force of 5.3kN or thereabouts, either in tension or compression.

Pretty sure you can get seal kits for the struts? Maybe only the rears.

To my mind, you'd weld then sleeve (or plate) and grind the new bore. OTOH, you might be lucky! It's just that luck and suspension are words I don't like to see interdependent...

Unread post by **DHallworth** » 30 Oct 2010, 10:46

Dean,

Have you seen CitroJim's guide to refurbing the rams?

David.

Deanxm · Unread post by **Deanxm** » 30 Oct 2010, 14:23

Hi David

No its not the rams,, as you would expect from an activa, its the strut itself that is leaking heavily.
The trouble with it is that its activa specific because of the mounting bracket for the ram instead of the normal droplink bracket.

D

handyman · Unread post by **handyman** » 30 Oct 2010, 14:49

Hullo Dean, can you confirm the part number you are looking for as I have some new Activa front struts available?

H

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 30 Oct 2010, 21:18

I'd be very wary of welding on a strut Dean. As Adam says, there's an awful lot of force acting there and you'd need a very talented welder. Possibly TIG.

Heat may be an issue.

If all else fails, have a word with Martin at Pleiades...

addo · Unread post by **addo** » 30 Oct 2010, 21:42

The way I look at it, yes, you probably could weld the tag on but an X-ray and hardness test would be the bare minimum of sensible testing (assuming bore concentricity was preserved). This is readily carried out by small labs who usually operate near airfields - you get the X-ray, a form letter that describes the part and their own placed identifying marks, and a summary of what was found (ie; hardness traversing weld and lack of cracks).

With UK parts pricing, this would probably exceed the cost of a new unit!

The reason for such diligence is because the part would fail (if it were compromised) after repeated stress cycles and failure would be less creep and more catastrophe - you'd have no warning signs like sloppiness or noise - and it would let go when highly loaded, like mid-corner at 80MPH.

Deanxm · Unread post by **Deanxm** » 30 Oct 2010, 22:30

yes this is what i was thinking, and more so about the heat damage to the cylinder.
Jim do you think martin could fit new seals or is this a no no with modern (ish

) citroen struts?
I may just wait untill i have the money and then find a good second hand one.

D

addo · Unread post by **addo** » 30 Oct 2010, 22:33

Of course it can physically be re-sealed - if anything the bore will be a lesser quality than older parts and may have worn slightly.

You could also try RedGold - they advertise they'll tackle odd units.

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addo · Unread post by **addo** » 20 Nov 2010, 09:22

I had a chance to review my comments, based on observations today while changing the leakoff pipe.

The struts are sleeved, so chances of welding to the outer (without bore distortion) are much better than previously forecast.

Still - look for an aviation certified welder, and get the weld X-rayed after. No front strut kits offered, but it will (London to a brick) be serviceable, give or take the assembly top cap.