Help!!!
The air con compressor on my 1997 1.9tdLX Xantia is shot(clutch bearing has collapsed) thus causing me problems with the belt as the pulley is loose. does any one know whether it is possible to fit a shorter belt to bypass the unit???[:(]
Xantia air con
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Yes, it's possible - mechanic did just that for my mate. Unfortunately I do not know WHICH belt they fitted - maybe you could measure it with a bit of string then go down the motor factors and find one to suit. The tensioner lay out is different on non-A/C cars, but that is probably a good place to start. FWIW my mate got a new compressor from a breakers somewhere around Norfolk for about £80, fitted it himself, and then had the system refilled - works a treat now.
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Any Idea how much it costs for a re charge, According to the H***** manual if the refrigerant in the sight glass on top of the dryer bottle is a milky colour when running then the system needs recharging and a new dryer bottle?
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Mercedes-benz 250 specifications
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Mercedes-benz 250 specifications
Last edited by ghostrider on 22 Feb 2011, 05:31, edited 1 time in total.
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ghostrider</i>
Any Idea how much it costs for a re charge, According to the H***** manual if the refrigerant in the sight glass on top of the dryer bottle is a milky colour when running then the system needs recharging and a new dryer bottle?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
The "miky" look applied to R-12, the original gas used in these systems & is really not all that applicable to the later gasses (r-134a & MP52) as these gasses show different characteristics. A system carrying say 1kg of R-12 will take an extra 10% of the later gasses & in many cases still show in the sight glass.
If the air/con is not cold enough is a more reliable way of testing than using the sight glass these days (the air should be at 42 deg F coming off the coil) and sometimes an audible hissing sound eminating from the evaporator region. If everything else checks out OK (fans, clear condensor etc) then every possibility that the gas has depleted, however, prior to taking to a repairer in these cases, try to get to the TX valve (on a BX it's behind a black plastic cover but the glovebox needs to be removed to access) and if any signs of oil traces can be seen around it, get it changed and then regassed. That way you stand a chance of getting a much longer period between regasses & is a much better invesrment than constant recharging.
Here are some pics I took of the TX valve & how to spot leaks on my own car which I sent to Andy Cooper who put them on his website.
http://www.btinternet.com/~weird_world/BXinfo.html
Alan S
Any Idea how much it costs for a re charge, According to the H***** manual if the refrigerant in the sight glass on top of the dryer bottle is a milky colour when running then the system needs recharging and a new dryer bottle?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
The "miky" look applied to R-12, the original gas used in these systems & is really not all that applicable to the later gasses (r-134a & MP52) as these gasses show different characteristics. A system carrying say 1kg of R-12 will take an extra 10% of the later gasses & in many cases still show in the sight glass.
If the air/con is not cold enough is a more reliable way of testing than using the sight glass these days (the air should be at 42 deg F coming off the coil) and sometimes an audible hissing sound eminating from the evaporator region. If everything else checks out OK (fans, clear condensor etc) then every possibility that the gas has depleted, however, prior to taking to a repairer in these cases, try to get to the TX valve (on a BX it's behind a black plastic cover but the glovebox needs to be removed to access) and if any signs of oil traces can be seen around it, get it changed and then regassed. That way you stand a chance of getting a much longer period between regasses & is a much better invesrment than constant recharging.
Here are some pics I took of the TX valve & how to spot leaks on my own car which I sent to Andy Cooper who put them on his website.
http://www.btinternet.com/~weird_world/BXinfo.html
Alan S