Unknown milage(not bothered)
So anything I should look for apart from head gasket/heater matrix.
The front spheres have been replaced.
Its a Green saloon diesel turbo.
Marcus.
Been offered a Xantia TD for 300 anything I should look for
Moderator: RichardW
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marcusvictoria
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Xaccers
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Strut tops.
Set it on high (also check the LHM level while you're up), look under the front wheel arches for the underside of the strut tops.
Look for splitting/peeling of the rubber and rust.
There's a thread on it with pictures of what happens if you don't catch it.
Replacements are £120ish each, so if it's a good runner then it's worth it.
Check spheres, with the car on normal see how soft the front and back are, if it's a VSX/Exclusive then it has hydractive suspension (thicker pipes going to front strut spheres), so 8 spheres instead of 6. To check this the car should be hard when left off with the doors closed for 30 seconds, then there should be a click and faint buzz when you open a door and the suspension should be soft, and then with the door closed another click and no buzz after 30 seconds.
With the engine running, listen at the front of the engine for a tick/click from the regulator. If it ticks more than once every 30 seconds then your accumulator sphere at the front of the engine needs replacing, in which case it's a good idea to change the rear accumulator sphere known as the anti-sink sphere.
Spheres are approx £22 each from GSF.
Check rust by the back seats with the doors open, where the rear skin of the wheel arch joins, not so bad on MK1 hatchbacks, not great on MK2 hatchbacks, and normally rusty on estates. Needs a clean up/weld/respray.
Check heater blower works.
Smell the heated airflow for catpee/curry, feel the passenger footwell under the carpet for dampness. Signs that heater matrix needs replacing.
May seem like a lot, but none are really show stoppers apart from major rust in the few prone spots if you're not able to repair it yourself.
Budget for some hydroflush (£20 from GSF) to replace the LHM and clean the hydraulic system. You run on this for 500-1000 miles and then replace it with fresh LHM.
So basically you could have a bargain for £300, or a bargain for about £500 if it needs some work.
Set it on high (also check the LHM level while you're up), look under the front wheel arches for the underside of the strut tops.
Look for splitting/peeling of the rubber and rust.
There's a thread on it with pictures of what happens if you don't catch it.
Replacements are £120ish each, so if it's a good runner then it's worth it.
Check spheres, with the car on normal see how soft the front and back are, if it's a VSX/Exclusive then it has hydractive suspension (thicker pipes going to front strut spheres), so 8 spheres instead of 6. To check this the car should be hard when left off with the doors closed for 30 seconds, then there should be a click and faint buzz when you open a door and the suspension should be soft, and then with the door closed another click and no buzz after 30 seconds.
With the engine running, listen at the front of the engine for a tick/click from the regulator. If it ticks more than once every 30 seconds then your accumulator sphere at the front of the engine needs replacing, in which case it's a good idea to change the rear accumulator sphere known as the anti-sink sphere.
Spheres are approx £22 each from GSF.
Check rust by the back seats with the doors open, where the rear skin of the wheel arch joins, not so bad on MK1 hatchbacks, not great on MK2 hatchbacks, and normally rusty on estates. Needs a clean up/weld/respray.
Check heater blower works.
Smell the heated airflow for catpee/curry, feel the passenger footwell under the carpet for dampness. Signs that heater matrix needs replacing.
May seem like a lot, but none are really show stoppers apart from major rust in the few prone spots if you're not able to repair it yourself.
Budget for some hydroflush (£20 from GSF) to replace the LHM and clean the hydraulic system. You run on this for 500-1000 miles and then replace it with fresh LHM.
So basically you could have a bargain for £300, or a bargain for about £500 if it needs some work.
1.9TD+ SX Xantia Estate (Cassy) running on 100% veg
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)
DIY sphere tool
1.9TD SX Xantia Hatchback (Jenny) running on 100% veg for sale
Laguna II 2.0dCi Privilege (Monty)
DIY sphere tool
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citroenxm
- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
Head gasket/Heater matrix test, is a VERY easy and simple one to do!!
Set the heater on HOT, then start the engine, then guage how soon the heat starts comming through.... the XUD is the opposite to the HDi, in that they warm up quite quickly...
Theres should be some GOOD heat before or round about the 60 deg mark, then it should settle between the 70 / 80 mark.. and give a stunning amount of heat...
If its still poor, or non, then either the Matrix is full of crap, or the head gasket is blocking up from Rust, due to LACK of anti freeze...
Remove the coolant expansion bottle, check the colour of the water, also check around the thermostat house, below the fuel filter for and Brown leaking rust water.... the water DOES NOT want to be on any side of Brown, either Blue or Green with anti freeze, and too much anti freeze does NOT hurt...
As for spheres, Ive had a LOT of bad ones from GSF, Amtek spheres dont seem to reliable. Go for I.H.F.S. Spheres from AEP In glasgow, or "Citroenservices" as there ID is on The Bay.... Ive NEVER had a bad IHFS sphere yet! Prices, around the same, possibly cheaper through Ebay!
Paul
Set the heater on HOT, then start the engine, then guage how soon the heat starts comming through.... the XUD is the opposite to the HDi, in that they warm up quite quickly...
Theres should be some GOOD heat before or round about the 60 deg mark, then it should settle between the 70 / 80 mark.. and give a stunning amount of heat...
If its still poor, or non, then either the Matrix is full of crap, or the head gasket is blocking up from Rust, due to LACK of anti freeze...
Remove the coolant expansion bottle, check the colour of the water, also check around the thermostat house, below the fuel filter for and Brown leaking rust water.... the water DOES NOT want to be on any side of Brown, either Blue or Green with anti freeze, and too much anti freeze does NOT hurt...
As for spheres, Ive had a LOT of bad ones from GSF, Amtek spheres dont seem to reliable. Go for I.H.F.S. Spheres from AEP In glasgow, or "Citroenservices" as there ID is on The Bay.... Ive NEVER had a bad IHFS sphere yet! Prices, around the same, possibly cheaper through Ebay!
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
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marcusvictoria
- Posts: 3
- Joined: 18 Oct 2010, 14:03
- Location:
- My Cars:
cheers guys
Cheers guys thanks very much.
checking it out in the morning
M plate so should be a dturbo.
I will check the rust areas.
It does need the front spheres changing.
I am pretty handy with a spanner would this be do able on the driveway?
I will check the other areas tomorrow.
Marcus.
checking it out in the morning
M plate so should be a dturbo.
I will check the rust areas.
It does need the front spheres changing.
I am pretty handy with a spanner would this be do able on the driveway?
I will check the other areas tomorrow.
Marcus.
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jgra1
- (Donor 2021)
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MG TF 135
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hi Marcus.. have a look by all means.. but £300 for an M plate, it would need to be quite a good one I would say.. I once brought a badun at that age and it was never a nice car 
(although there are plenty of well looked after ones around I am certain)
just a thought really.. 10 year old TD's dont seem to go for much more than that 16 year old..
John
(although there are plenty of well looked after ones around I am certain) just a thought really.. 10 year old TD's dont seem to go for much more than that 16 year old..
John
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citroenxm
- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
FRONT sphere changes is quite doo-able on the drive...
As a quick run down lower the car to the ground with the lever in the car... LEAVE the car in low running for a few MINUTES... locate the regulator on the front of the engine/gearbox, you may want to remove the intercooler pipes - nice and easy.. on the front of the regulator you'll find a 12mm nut (Or is it 13mm - ooeerrrr, I should know that!) It will be the ONLY one anyway, the rest are 10 or 11mm.
With the engine running open the nut about ONE TURN ONLY!! You'll hear the system hiss to release pressure..
Switch engine off... You should then be able to remove the spheres - IF you find the sphere still stiff to undo after a quarter of a turn, then theres still pressure behind them... This is greatly reduced as I said earlyer, put the car in low and leave running for a few mins to make sure she settles right down...
Change the spheres, tighten the spheres up by HAND, start the car FIRST, then Tighten the regulator screw, Starting the car first will bleed the system..
There you are... FRONTS only... rears have a slightly longer procedure, but not a problem if they have been changed.
Paul
As a quick run down lower the car to the ground with the lever in the car... LEAVE the car in low running for a few MINUTES... locate the regulator on the front of the engine/gearbox, you may want to remove the intercooler pipes - nice and easy.. on the front of the regulator you'll find a 12mm nut (Or is it 13mm - ooeerrrr, I should know that!) It will be the ONLY one anyway, the rest are 10 or 11mm.
With the engine running open the nut about ONE TURN ONLY!! You'll hear the system hiss to release pressure..
Switch engine off... You should then be able to remove the spheres - IF you find the sphere still stiff to undo after a quarter of a turn, then theres still pressure behind them... This is greatly reduced as I said earlyer, put the car in low and leave running for a few mins to make sure she settles right down...
Change the spheres, tighten the spheres up by HAND, start the car FIRST, then Tighten the regulator screw, Starting the car first will bleed the system..
There you are... FRONTS only... rears have a slightly longer procedure, but not a problem if they have been changed.
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
)-
citroenxm
- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71