C15 Clutch Change & Pressure Plate Fixings
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C15 Clutch Change & Pressure Plate Fixings
T40
Anyway, all went well today and managed to remove L & R track control arms via a ball joint remover and get the gearbox off.
The clutch was completely gone, with many of the pressure plate diaphragm springs broken and the bearing more or less disintegrated.
However, came to take off the clutch assy only to find T40 bolt ends (grrrr) thus end of play today. I've got T40 bits, but not the type that would allow a torqued release. So off to the shed again.....
The one thing that does concern me is the clutch release fork. This is a welded shaft assy and seems to be bent (in comparison to Haynes at least). But I have seen these angled before.
Any thoughts?
Anyway, all went well today and managed to remove L & R track control arms via a ball joint remover and get the gearbox off.
The clutch was completely gone, with many of the pressure plate diaphragm springs broken and the bearing more or less disintegrated.
However, came to take off the clutch assy only to find T40 bolt ends (grrrr) thus end of play today. I've got T40 bits, but not the type that would allow a torqued release. So off to the shed again.....
The one thing that does concern me is the clutch release fork. This is a welded shaft assy and seems to be bent (in comparison to Haynes at least). But I have seen these angled before.
Any thoughts?
Last edited by frenchcarnut on 27 Oct 2010, 18:12, edited 1 time in total.
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I'm not sure which bit of the clutch fork assemly you mean when yo say it's bent. The two arms of the fork should be parralell to each other. These sometimes get damaged when the bearing disintegrates, as they get caught in the fingers of the clutch diaphragm. The fork can only be bought with the arm as a matched pair and costs an exorbitant amount, something like £90! The arm on top should be angled down.
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I'll post some pictures later.Mine are not parallel. £90 <sigh>flying clutchman wrote:I'm not sure which bit of the clutch fork assemly you mean when yo say it's bent. The two arms of the fork should be parralell to each other. These sometimes get damaged when the bearing disintegrates, as they get caught in the fingers of the clutch diaphragm. The fork can only be bought with the arm as a matched pair and costs an exorbitant amount, something like £90! The arm on top should be angled down.
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That would be nice....although I don't want a weakened unit. Do you know if both arms of the fork are supposed to be perpendicular to the shaft?Chris570 wrote:that does look a tad bent, but hopefully not beyond bending back.
I think you're right from the picture, but I could have sworn they were torx as the light was fading yesterday - and I did fit a T40 in. Perhaps my glasses were slipping again - I must get varifocals sorted and stop pretending I'm still 21Chris570 wrote:those look more like hex to me though
Can't understand why they didn't just use normal nut heads as replacement bolts are specified.
I'll take another look later when I get back.
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Looking at it the right leg should match the angles of the left.... (not seen this before though)frenchcarnut wrote:That would be nice....although I don't want a weakened unit. Do you know if both arms of the fork are supposed to be perpendicular to the shaft?Chris570 wrote:that does look a tad bent, but hopefully not beyond bending back.
I think you're right from the picture, but I could have sworn they were torx as the light was fading yesterday - and I did fit a T40 in. Perhaps my glasses were slipping again - I must get varifocals sorted and stop pretending I'm still 21Chris570 wrote:those look more like hex to me though
Can't understand why they didn't just use normal nut heads as replacement bolts are specified.
I'll take another look later when I get back.
well you will fit the t40 in there but would be a lot easier to round....
the TU's have a similar arrangement (probably due to not being enough space for a conventional hex head and a socket)
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Fair enough.Chris570 wrote:the TU's have a similar arrangement (probably due to not being enough space for a conventional hex head and a socket)
Does anyone know where the serial numbers are located on BE3 gearboxes? One part has got BE4 cast in (clutch bell housing) and another BE3 (rear of gearbox), but I can't locate any serial number anywhere.....yet
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The right leg of the fork needs straightening. I've had to do this loads of times and it's normally ok. Check for cracking in the base of the leg afterwards. They are normally torx bolts on the clutch. Should'nt give you too much grief. If they're very tight loosen with a chisel. I always re-use clutch bolts unless they're damaged. They're perfectly conventional steel screws.
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Thanks clutchman, that's very reassuring. Thanks for the advice too.
I'll go and get my T40 1/2" tonight if Halfords sell them. Otherwise ebay?
Anyone know of any good makes apart from Snapon?
Really? Shows you how long it's been since I did my last one. A Vauxhall way back when.flying clutchman wrote: They are normally torx bolts on the clutch.
I'll go and get my T40 1/2" tonight if Halfords sell them. Otherwise ebay?
Anyone know of any good makes apart from Snapon?
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I think they're £23 - linkjgra1 wrote:halfords are fine for torx, but get a half inch set (t15 to t55 I think) it will only be £10-15 and will serve you well
I had to buy a T60 the other day on it's own, £9
Might be better off on ebay
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Price of metal going through the roof, recessionary borrowing costs and other issues, Halfords beating the competition to becoming a unilateral force on the High Street..............jgra1 wrote:ooh, a bit more
they do seem pretty good.. mine get a tough time and are behaving well.. I dont expect to buy them ever again
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