C15 Clutch Change & Pressure Plate Fixings

[frenchcarnut]

T40

Anyway, all went well today and managed to remove L & R track control arms via a ball joint remover and get the gearbox off.

The clutch was completely gone, with many of the pressure plate diaphragm springs broken and the bearing more or less disintegrated.

However, came to take off the clutch assy only to find T40 bolt ends (grrrr) thus end of play today. I've got T40 bits, but not the type that would allow a torqued release. So off to the shed again.....

The one thing that does concern me is the clutch release fork. This is a welded shaft assy and seems to be bent (in comparison to Haynes at least). But I have seen these angled before.

Any thoughts?

[flying clutchman]

I'm not sure which bit of the clutch fork assemly you mean when yo say it's bent. The two arms of the fork should be parralell to each other. These sometimes get damaged when the bearing disintegrates, as they get caught in the fingers of the clutch diaphragm. The fork can only be bought with the arm as a matched pair and costs an exorbitant amount, something like £90! The arm on top should be angled down.

[frenchcarnut]

I'm not sure which bit of the clutch fork assemly you mean when yo say it's bent. The two arms of the fork should be parralell to each other. These sometimes get damaged when the bearing disintegrates, as they get caught in the fingers of the clutch diaphragm. The fork can only be bought with the arm as a matched pair and costs an exorbitant amount, something like £90! The arm on top should be angled down.

I'll post some pictures later.Mine are not parallel. £90 <sigh>

[frenchcarnut]

Here they are:

I've colourised the fork for clarity.


and

What a mess!!!

[Chris570]

that does look a tad bent, but hopefully not beyond bending back.

those look more like hex to me though

[frenchcarnut]

that does look a tad bent, but hopefully not beyond bending back.

That would be nice....although I don't want a weakened unit. Do you know if both arms of the fork are supposed to be perpendicular to the shaft?

those look more like hex to me though

I think you're right from the picture, but I could have sworn they were torx as the light was fading yesterday - and I did fit a T40 in. Perhaps my glasses were slipping again - I must get varifocals sorted and stop pretending I'm still 21

Can't understand why they didn't just use normal nut heads as replacement bolts are specified.

I'll take another look later when I get back.

[Chris570]

that does look a tad bent, but hopefully not beyond bending back.

That would be nice....although I don't want a weakened unit. Do you know if both arms of the fork are supposed to be perpendicular to the shaft?

those look more like hex to me though

I think you're right from the picture, but I could have sworn they were torx as the light was fading yesterday - and I did fit a T40 in. Perhaps my glasses were slipping again - I must get varifocals sorted and stop pretending I'm still 21

Can't understand why they didn't just use normal nut heads as replacement bolts are specified.

I'll take another look later when I get back.

Looking at it the right leg should match the angles of the left.... (not seen this before though)

well you will fit the t40 in there but would be a lot easier to round....

the TU's have a similar arrangement (probably due to not being enough space for a conventional hex head and a socket)

[frenchcarnut]

the TU's have a similar arrangement (probably due to not being enough space for a conventional hex head and a socket)

Fair enough.

Does anyone know where the serial numbers are located on BE3 gearboxes? One part has got BE4 cast in (clutch bell housing) and another BE3 (rear of gearbox), but I can't locate any serial number anywhere.....yet

[flying clutchman]

The right leg of the fork needs straightening. I've had to do this loads of times and it's normally ok. Check for cracking in the base of the leg afterwards. They are normally torx bolts on the clutch. Should'nt give you too much grief. If they're very tight loosen with a chisel. I always re-use clutch bolts unless they're damaged. They're perfectly conventional steel screws.

[frenchcarnut]

Thanks clutchman, that's very reassuring. Thanks for the advice too.

They are normally torx bolts on the clutch.

Really? Shows you how long it's been since I did my last one. A Vauxhall way back when.

I'll go and get my T40 1/2" tonight if Halfords sell them. Otherwise ebay?

Anyone know of any good makes apart from Snapon?

[jgra1]

halfords are fine for torx, but get a half inch set (t15 to t55 I think) it will only be £10-15 and will serve you well
I had to buy a T60 the other day on it's own, £9

[frenchcarnut]

halfords are fine for torx, but get a half inch set (t15 to t55 I think) it will only be £10-15 and will serve you well
I had to buy a T60 the other day on it's own, £9

I think they're £23 - link

Might be better off on ebay

[jgra1]

ooh, a bit more

they do seem pretty good.. mine get a tough time and are behaving well.. I dont expect to buy them ever again

[frenchcarnut]

ooh, a bit more

they do seem pretty good.. mine get a tough time and are behaving well.. I dont expect to buy them ever again

Price of metal going through the roof, recessionary borrowing costs and other issues, Halfords beating the competition to becoming a unilateral force on the High Street..............

[jgra1]

I must admit I never use halfords normally some tools are brought second hand, some from factors and some from ebay ..

but they are on the high street, and when your stuck on a sunday afternoon they are quite useful