306 1.4 tuning
Moderator: RichardW
306 1.4 tuning
Hi
ok, here goes
I'm in the process of tuning a 94 306 1.4 (yes it's worth it)[^]
so far I have added a Pipercross induction kit, a nice carbon fibre
tailpipe, and it's had the de-cat,
Just with those few things done it's pulling a lot better than
standard,
My next step is to chip the ECU or Re-map it, Superchips say +6bhp
from their chip, and a much better torque and power curve,
Has anyone experimented with chipping/remap the 1.4, and do you
know where or who does the ECU remap[?]
Any advice or help here will be very much appreciated,
Thanks Paul...
ok, here goes
I'm in the process of tuning a 94 306 1.4 (yes it's worth it)[^]
so far I have added a Pipercross induction kit, a nice carbon fibre
tailpipe, and it's had the de-cat,
Just with those few things done it's pulling a lot better than
standard,
My next step is to chip the ECU or Re-map it, Superchips say +6bhp
from their chip, and a much better torque and power curve,
Has anyone experimented with chipping/remap the 1.4, and do you
know where or who does the ECU remap[?]
Any advice or help here will be very much appreciated,
Thanks Paul...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by 306</i>
Hi
ok, here goes
I'm in the process of tuning a 94 306 1.4 (yes it's worth it)[^]
so far I have added a Pipercross induction kit, a nice carbon fibre
tailpipe, and it's had the de-cat,
Just with those few things done it's pulling a lot better than
standard,
My next step is to chip the ECU or Re-map it, Superchips say +6bhp
from their chip, and a much better torque and power curve,
Has anyone experimented with chipping/remap the 1.4, and do you
know where or who does the ECU remap[?]
Any advice or help here will be very much appreciated,
Thanks Paul...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Hi
ok, here goes
I'm in the process of tuning a 94 306 1.4 (yes it's worth it)[^]
so far I have added a Pipercross induction kit, a nice carbon fibre
tailpipe, and it's had the de-cat,
Just with those few things done it's pulling a lot better than
standard,
My next step is to chip the ECU or Re-map it, Superchips say +6bhp
from their chip, and a much better torque and power curve,
Has anyone experimented with chipping/remap the 1.4, and do you
know where or who does the ECU remap[?]
Any advice or help here will be very much appreciated,
Thanks Paul...
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Hi
The de-cat pipe was made by myself, using a new cat I bought off eBay, I just cut the cat box out of the pipe and welded a straight piece in place, but I kept my original cat.
As far as MOT's go, most "back street garages" may overlook the fact that the cat is missing
as long as Co's and Hc's are within limit, however I have kept my existing cat just to change it
over before an MOT.
I have since added the "Drag mod" on to the fuel and ignition system and it works a treat
gives approx + 4-6 bhp.
The de-cat pipe was made by myself, using a new cat I bought off eBay, I just cut the cat box out of the pipe and welded a straight piece in place, but I kept my original cat.
As far as MOT's go, most "back street garages" may overlook the fact that the cat is missing
as long as Co's and Hc's are within limit, however I have kept my existing cat just to change it
over before an MOT.
I have since added the "Drag mod" on to the fuel and ignition system and it works a treat
gives approx + 4-6 bhp.
Hi
The Drag mod is just a way to fool the ECU, making it think that the air the car is breathing is cold, inturn advancing the ignition and supplying more fuel.
Now!!! Cost, believe it or not the Drag mod is just a 4.7k resistor that you can buy from any electrical component shop costing about 7p, and of course the info to fit it, yet some people on eBay are selling it for much more.
Paul...
The Drag mod is just a way to fool the ECU, making it think that the air the car is breathing is cold, inturn advancing the ignition and supplying more fuel.
Now!!! Cost, believe it or not the Drag mod is just a 4.7k resistor that you can buy from any electrical component shop costing about 7p, and of course the info to fit it, yet some people on eBay are selling it for much more.
Paul...
But can you prove it?
The engine management system on the 1.4 (and all modern cars) works on the closed loop principle. This means the the engine is run as lean as possible and as close to Lambda = 1. Therefore, the engine management will not inject anymore fuel, regardless of this mod. Air temperature does not affect the ignition timing. Ignition timing is derived from engine speed and throttle position and also feedback from the Lambda sensor. Where have you put this 4.7K ohm resistor and what made you choose this value of resistor?
If the CPU detects the voltage drop across a hot wire (this is how it measures airflow) putting a resistor in series here will decrease the voltage even further (hot wires resistance increases proportionally to temperature) meaning it thinks there is more air than there actually is. But, the Lambda sensor will still return a reading that the fuel is getting to rich and so will immediatly reduce fuelling.
The only possible consequence of this I could see is a slightly elevated idle speed and rougher running.
The engine management system on the 1.4 (and all modern cars) works on the closed loop principle. This means the the engine is run as lean as possible and as close to Lambda = 1. Therefore, the engine management will not inject anymore fuel, regardless of this mod. Air temperature does not affect the ignition timing. Ignition timing is derived from engine speed and throttle position and also feedback from the Lambda sensor. Where have you put this 4.7K ohm resistor and what made you choose this value of resistor?
If the CPU detects the voltage drop across a hot wire (this is how it measures airflow) putting a resistor in series here will decrease the voltage even further (hot wires resistance increases proportionally to temperature) meaning it thinks there is more air than there actually is. But, the Lambda sensor will still return a reading that the fuel is getting to rich and so will immediatly reduce fuelling.
The only possible consequence of this I could see is a slightly elevated idle speed and rougher running.
http://forum.maxpower.co.uk/forum/topic ... hTerms=306
All the info you need is there
All the info you need is there
> As far as MOT's go, most "back street garages" may overlook the
> fact that the cat is missing as long as Co's and Hc's are within
> limit
they wouldn't be overlooking anything - there's no legal/mot requirement for any car to have a cat, but it's (virtually?) impossible to get the CO & HC levels within the limit if you don't.
> however I have kept my existing cat just to change it
> over before an MOT.
not exactly legal.
> fact that the cat is missing as long as Co's and Hc's are within
> limit
they wouldn't be overlooking anything - there's no legal/mot requirement for any car to have a cat, but it's (virtually?) impossible to get the CO & HC levels within the limit if you don't.
> however I have kept my existing cat just to change it
> over before an MOT.
not exactly legal.
i would say it sounds like a load of sh**e aswell,rossd is correct in saying the lambda sensor would detect something was wrong with the fueling & correct it.I dont think these injection systems use a hotwire to measure airflow though,i think they use a combination of the MAP sensor & an NTC themistor to determine the quantity & density of the air being drawn in.