Crankshaft pulley bolt

skypilot · Post by **skypilot** » 12 Jun 2003, 14:43

Put my ZX TD into the local garage to have the timing belt and tensioner replaced. The mechanic didn't do the work because he couldn't undo the crankshaft pulley bolt. Any suggestions for getting this bolt out? Would a Citroen dealer be a better bet? Unfortunately, my nearest Citroen garage is Arnold Clark. If you haven't seen it yet, check out the "Arnold Clark Sucks" website.

Post by **Jon** » 12 Jun 2003, 14:50

This bolt comes out much easier of you try it with the engine still hot.
In the Workshop we used to lock the flywheel and have the car in 5th gear then undid the bolt with a windy gun, worked every time.
From a diy point of view, see this topic for advice.http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... ank,pulley

mbunting · Post by **mbunting** » 12 Jun 2003, 16:09

Just done the same on my Xantia, the engine had not run for over a month.
Agreed, it was hard, but lock the flywheel in place, and use a torque wrench ( or long-handled ratchet ).
Remember, the longer the handle, the less the effort needed by you.

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 12 Jun 2003, 23:16

Having a total of four Cit/Pugs in the family, difficult crankshaft pulley bolts crop up from time to time. When all else fails, I put a 22mm socket and tommy bar on it, extend the bar (in the 4o'clock position) with a piece of gas pipe to the ground, give the starter a very quick on/off, and the bolt is invariably loosened.

mbunting · Post by **mbunting** » 12 Jun 2003, 23:18

Hmm, that's an interesting one !
And how many starters have you burnt out ?

Mat.

Dave Bamber · Post by **Dave Bamber** » 12 Jun 2003, 23:38

99% of crank bolts I've had to undo, I've used the "gas pipe on the ground, crank the starter" method and never damaged a starter. That is not to say one day I might, but not yet. Just be very careful doing it this way as there is a good chance if the bar comes off the bolt it may go through the radiator/bodywork/you!
The 1% was recently on a Landrover, the starter method didn't work so I ended up with a 3 foot long 3/4 Tommy bar AND a 6 foot scaffold tube with all 18 stone of your trully daggling off the end. Boy was it tight!

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 12 Jun 2003, 23:46

I strongly advise against using the method of removal as put forward by JohnD, sorry John.
The reasons, you have no control of where the bits of pipe and socketry will end up, and with that much power going through it a stubborn bolt might easily bust your socket, or if the socket is up to it bust your bolt.
The main reason though is the bolt itself, it has locking compound on it and when cold takes a large amount of force to move it.
To undo it you must apply loads of force but build up to it very very slowly to give the compound a chance to break up, don't go and swing on it all of a piece, the bolt can snap before the compound gives in and then you are in real expensive trouble.
If the amount of force you are applying becomes a worry, get some good heat into the bolt, if you can't run the engine use a hot air paint stripper but be very carefull of the rubber in the pulley, shield as much of the pulley from the heat as possible.
Dave

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 13 Jun 2003, 23:44

Thanks Dave for your comments - they are appreciated. When I resort to this method, I've already tried the more conventional ones. As I said earlier, the power to the starter is momentary, and each time I've used it, the bolt comes loose, with the socket still in place. Proof of the pud - and all that!

ghostrider · Post by **ghostrider** » 14 Jun 2003, 04:45

Just done the same job on mx BX19D, bolt was monster tight, used an impact wrench to give it a good jar and then 3/4 drive , 1 metre scffold tube with enough socket extensions on to bring it outside the wing, good wife to keep socket square on bolt head and gotcha, tighter than drive shaft nut, but I noticed when I removed the bolt not only was there locking compound but also rust ! Does it really need to be that tight if it has locking compound on it?
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ghostrider · Post by **ghostrider** » 14 Jun 2003, 04:49

oh yeah PS, undoing similar bolt on GSA years ago, I got desperate one sunday at about 3am and used that stater motor technique, bust a tooth off the starter ring, probably coincidence, the other one being that the engine ALWAYs stopped with the missing tooth opposite the starter motor, still at least you could hand crank the GS which IMHO was an even better car than the BX
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