Xantia Estate tailgate wiper motor mechanism lubrication

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VertVega
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Xantia Estate tailgate wiper motor mechanism lubrication

Post by VertVega »

About more than a year ago tailgate wiper stopped working in my Xantia.
Wiper blade stayed on the half way :shock:
There was 12V at the motor end and the relay was also ticking at intervals when switched on from steering wheel control #-o
I decided to have a closer look at the motor and made it a weekend project.

Here’s the picture story.

Tools used and red grease:
Image

Estate tailgate membrane and adhesive material.
I have renewed adhesive earlier when I had to change the locking actuator long ago.
Used 3M butyl tape (auto glass sealer).
Image

----------------
Edit 13.10.2010: A pic of the butyl-strip-sealant, 10 m roll.
Image
Also thanks to CitroJim for the tip about W4 caravan bedding mastic:
back when I had an estate and also had the same problem, I resealed it with W4 caravan bedding mastic, the stuff used to bed joints and awning rails on touring 'vans.

It comes in rolls in the same way as the 3M stuff shown by VertVega and is very readily available from your local caravan dealer.
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Wiper motor and relay:
Image

Mechanisms cover and rivets:
Image


Grinded off rivet heads and drilled about 2-3mm
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Metal cover off
Image

Drilled only 2-3 mm at this phase.
Image

It was definitely suffering from lack of lubricant.
(Edit 13.10.2010: A couple hits moved the shaft in and released the arm pin from the wheel)
Image

Parts dismantled for cleaning
Image

I cleaned off old grease and drilled through 5 screw holes.
(Edit 13.10.2010: 6 rivets but only 5 screws. I left rivet #4 since it was exceptionally thick material there.)
Filled with new red grease and put all parts back in reverse order.
Image

A closer look. Allen cap screw and nut.
Image
.
I hope this would help others as well who are having the same problem.
Last edited by VertVega on 13 Oct 2010, 21:33, edited 1 time in total.

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CitroJim
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Post by CitroJim »

Wow, excellent :D :D :D

Thanks for posting this VertVega, that' going to be valuable to many!

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myglaren
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Post by myglaren »

Why red grease VertVega?

I only ask as the guy who used to service our glue machine used it on the glue pump and couplings but claimed the red was just an identifier to show that the parts had been properly greased on assembly as it was very evident the next time the parts were dismantled.

As I am now the service guy :( *, seeing as we have bought the machine rather than having it leased, I'd be interested to know if there are any special properties attached to red grease.

*the machine was scheduled for replacement three months ago but in our company it could be another three years and in the meantime the damned thing is on it's last legs :evil: :evil:

It also uses a red 'gland oil' that the suppliers will no longer supply as we no longer buy the glue from them (£5,000 per month)

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VertVega
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Post by VertVega »

CitroJim wrote:...that' going to be valuable to many!
I really hope so :D

myglaren, here are some what I learned from this project but I can't realy say what type of
grease would be best for your case :)
(Before reading further, please keep in mind that I am not a specialist on this subject.)

I had no idea about what king of grease was used in the motor until I removed the cover.
Visual check, smell and rubbing grease between finger tips gave some idea.
So I decided to hunt for a similar red grease just to follow the foot steps of the manufacturer Valeo.

The old grease in the motor felt like NLGI grade 2. I bought NLGI 0 (softer) which had better cold
temperatures specifications. Also on the description it was written that it can be used for
automotive and industrial applications where temperature is not above 65 C
and the load conditions are moderate. That suits me.

Some about NLGI grades.
Greases are classified in one of nine grades based on their consistency.
NLGI Grade: 2
Appearance: "normal" grease
Consistency food analog: peanut butter

NLGI Grade: 1
Appearance: Soft
Consistency food analog: tomato paste

NLGI Grade: 0
Appearance: Very soft
Consistency food analog: brown mustard

Another important issue is the thickener (also called as soap) in grease.
Soaps can be made from calcium, sodium, aluminum or lithium and mixtures of these metals.
The nature of the soaps determines the temperature resistance, water resistance,
and chemical reactivity.

In general, greases with different chemical compositions should not be mixed.
Mixing greases of different thickeners can form a mix that is too firm
to provide sufficient lubrication or more commonly, a mix that is too soft to stay in place.

Lithium-based greases are the most commonly used.
Sodium and lithium based greases have higher melting point (dropping point)
than calcium-based greases but are not resistant to the action of water.
The one I bought was Calcium based.

It has been about a year and Wiper motor has worked fine so far 8-)

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myglaren
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Post by myglaren »

Thanks for that info VertVega.
Hopefully I won't need to apply it but it will be useful if ever I do.
The temperature the grease is exposed to is low, never over 30˚C.
The Gland oil boils and smokes under hard usage though (usually when we run out of glue or forget to turn the glue tap back on after a new container has been installed).
It is buggered again today but I had to leave work early (perfume induced asthma attack) so it's anybody's guess if the pump will be working tomorrow :shock:

RichardW
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Post by RichardW »

Top job VV.... 8-) Mine has given up, despite me thinking I had fixed it with Plus Gas down the shaft, and it's a real pain on the estate not having a rear wiper. When I get 1/2 day, and it's not raining (not much chance of that then :x ) I'll have a go at it!

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Post by RichardW »

Tackled mine today - pleased to say we now have working rear window wiper!

Was pretty much as VertVega described - although on mine the ouput shaft was totally jammed in the tube. It took a fair amount of 'persuasion' with No1 copper hammer to free it :lol: Oddly once out it wasn't all rusty as I expected it just appeared to have gone stiff in the nylon bush. Gave the shaft a clean with wire wool, and chased out the bush with a rats tail file, slathered it in grease, and away it goes. At least now if it stops again I won't need to drill out the rivets!

On the down side I see it needs a new wiper blade, and these are Valeo only - and cost an arm and a leg... :cry:

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VertVega
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Post by VertVega »

Great news! It's very nice to hear that you made it work Image

RichardW
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Post by RichardW »

First drive today after the extended alternator repair period. Pleased to report it works better than it ever has done in the 3 years I have had the car 8-) Well worth the effort. New wiper blade was only £8, so not the end of the world every 60k miles!

PS Owe you a virtual pint - a new one is over £150!!

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VertVega
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Post by VertVega »

RichardW wrote:...PS Owe you a virtual pint - ...
I have never tasted virtual pint before :D
Thanks 8-) Image ... and it tastes good :lol:

c.morewood
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Re: Xantia Estate tailgate wiper motor mechanism lubrication

Post by c.morewood »

Thanks guys,
Another dud rear wiper motor given a new lease of life. If I ever get to the Province Nordic de l'union Europeeane. I'll buy you a real one.
With grateful thanks from La province de L'Ecosse du Nord!!

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Re: Xantia Estate tailgate wiper motor mechanism lubrication

Post by RichardW »

If tackling this job, check the state of the metal blades in the gearbox - the tip of the power feed (the one nearest the centre) broke off on mine and caused a dead short which blows the fuse (that also runs the indicators!). I was able to solder a new one on (still to be tested ATM):

Image