Is there a special tool.....

Stempy · Post by **Stempy** » 02 Jul 2010, 20:16

....for removing lower ball joints other than hammer and cold chisel?

spider · Post by **spider** » 02 Jul 2010, 20:37

There is for a 406 so I would assume the Xantia one is the same.

I have (or had) a (it took a lot of searching to find one) very very deep socket that will fit over it completely (including threaded section) and allow you to unscrew it.

No one had one at the time, although there was a tool available so I understand.

handyman · Post by **handyman** » 02 Jul 2010, 21:57

Yes Stempy, there is a castillated socket that fits snuggly on the outer part of the balljoint. You then tighten a nut onto the old pin, get a big socket, 35mm?

, drop on your air gun and wang it off!

Sometimes you need a bit of heat to break the threadlock in the old unit, especially if it was one I fitted.

You use the same tool to fit the new unit.

So much easier than a hammer and chisel.

H

Stempy · Post by **Stempy** » 02 Jul 2010, 22:06

So can I get one at Halfrauds and can I use a length of scaffold instead of an airgun?

addo · Post by **addo** » 02 Jul 2010, 23:55

Be gentle with the extra long breaker bar - this guy wasn't. An air gun (as HM called it) is a good investment.

handyman · Post by **handyman** » 03 Jul 2010, 06:15

Hi Stempy, I do not know if Halfrauds(?) do it, but the BJ tool is available from all good motor factors, as it is a PSA service tool. I think I paid <£10 for mine and it has removed and fitted quite a few BJs.

Ou est-ce que vous?

Handyman

Post by **myglaren** » 03 Jul 2010, 06:57

Same one for the C5, which may or may not be the same, was listed at £34 last time I asked. It was either a Sealy or Snap-On though.

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 03 Jul 2010, 08:15

Sealeys part No. is SX027 £11.23 inc VAT from ECP, as i have just purchased a pair of them for addo,

make sure when useing these tools you fit the swivle pin nut to hold the tool in place, otherwise you could shear of the teeth/pegs

regards malcolm

Stempy · Post by **Stempy** » 03 Jul 2010, 09:07

Better get one of those then.

Not too far from you Handyman up in Surrey.

Will need to get a ball joint splitter too, are the fork type ones ok?

Will be replacing lower arms, track rod ends, lower ball joints and ARB bushes. I now have most of what I need apart from special tools and know how

And I guess I'll need new nuts for the drop links.

I've read that the job is easier if you disconnect everything on both sides before removal. Any precautions I should be taking especially with regard to the height corrector linkage as I've also read that it's quite easy to disturb?

Post by **CitroJim** » 03 Jul 2010, 09:12

You need a good meaty balljoint splitter Stempy. A little girly one intended for track rod ends won't cut the mustard.

I always find it best to remove the whole hub to do this job. Not as nasty as it looks...

red_dwarfers · Post by **red_dwarfers** » 03 Jul 2010, 09:43

CitroJim wrote:You need a good meaty balljoint splitter Stempy. A little girly one intended for track rod ends won't cut the mustard.

I always find it best to remove the whole hub to do this job. Not as nasty as it looks...

I second this, especially when you do the NS as all the muck and puddles from the side of the road can make the job a bit of a 'mare in situ!

Make sure you have some sort of meaty heat source as things may be rather seized up!

addo · Post by **addo** » 03 Jul 2010, 10:26

I've been wondering - is it possible to half-release the strut feed pipe so that the hub may be pushed upwards without fighting LHM pressure, to free it from the lower arm, then swung out?

Got the willies about messing up my ride height!

Post by **CitroJim** » 03 Jul 2010, 16:50

addo wrote:I've been wondering - is it possible to half-release the strut feed pipe so that the hub may be pushed upwards without fighting LHM pressure, to free it from the lower arm, then swung out?

Yes, dead easy. So long as you're depressuried (down on low is enough on a V6, no need to fight the bleed screw) the strut will push up with no bother at all to release the hub.

No worries about mucking up rise height as the bottom of the trut has a ridge around it to make sure you can't press it too far into the hub.

handyman · Post by **handyman** » 03 Jul 2010, 20:23

Hi Stempy, I have a whole variety of ball joint splitters, from lowly little bracket types with a small bolt through to the meaty device that fits in the air chisel, if something is determined not to move.

Having said that, the one that fits all Citroen balljoints without snagging is the scissor type, as you can get this into much more awkward locations. Do not know if they are still available, but they do do the business.

Not sure how much wang you can get with a scaffold pole.

If you need to heat the hub carrier, and you will, be very careful not to heat soak it, as they can be distorted with too much heat and the tangential pressure of a long pole. That's why I prefer an air gun, as all the torque is in-line. Do not ask me how I know.

H

Post by **CitroJim** » 03 Jul 2010, 20:37

handyman wrote: Having said that, the one that fits all Citroen balljoints without snagging is the scissor type, as you can get this into much more awkward locations. Do not know if they are still available, but they do do the business.

Yep, I agree, the ideal tool.

They're still available and made by Laser so Halfrauds and Wilco will have them. In fact I saw one in a Wilco branch today...