Xantia knocking front near side

Taffyrhys · Post by **Taffyrhys** » 14 May 2010, 15:07

I have a knocking from the front near side when you are driving along, i have replaced the link bars but i can still here a knocking like its from the suspension, any ideas????????????
cheers Taffy

Chris570 · Post by **Chris570** » 14 May 2010, 15:10

i presume you mean the drop links?
when does it knock? when turning, going over bumps? many many options here

Taffyrhys · Post by **Taffyrhys** » 14 May 2010, 15:15

Yes i replaced the drop down link bars but it knocks as you go over bumps or rough road it seems fine on the smooth surface of a motorway.

Post by **CitroJim** » 14 May 2010, 15:29

Check the swivel joint at the bottom of the hub, the one that links to the wishbone.

These can make that sort of noise when worn.

Relieve the weight on the wheel by jacking up, supporting and depressurising the suspension and feel for play in the joint.

They're a bit of a challenge to replace

spider · Post by **spider** » 14 May 2010, 15:44

CitroJim wrote:They're a bit of a challenge to replace

Are they not simply screwed into the bottom of the hub (ie: 406 style ?)

Only asking as I cannot recall what they have.

Chris570 · Post by **Chris570** » 14 May 2010, 15:47

they are screwed in yea, but with some stupid amount of torque and you need a special tool to remove them + a massive scaffold pole

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 14 May 2010, 16:21

could also be either of the two inner lower arm bushes.. and possibly a track rod end.. either way, wheel off ground and see what occurs

John

re pivot joint, i have managed removla of two with a large pair of stilsons, car back on ground, and scaffolding pole , dont ask me how - it was a case of needs must

castellating an old large socket could be a good tool to make it easier... cant remeber the size. But I do have a new joint at home so could measure the width and the size of the turrets etc ...

DickieG · Post by **DickieG** » 14 May 2010, 18:59

I'm with Jim on this, the bottom ball joint to be the culprit. Whilst there is a special tool (which I have) the easiest way to remove the old joint is to bend back the tag's then use a chisel/hammer to undo the old joint as the shock of the blow works a treat. Bear in mind that unless you remove the bottom ball joint form the wishbone you're unlikely to be able to detect movement/slack within the joint.

thorter · Post by **thorter** » 14 May 2010, 21:21

Not sure if I posted this before, but you can make up a tool for the ball pin outer using 10mm steel plate and bits of allen key cut up with an angle grinder.

The large hole needs to be a close fit over the rubber boot to keep enough metal for the pins. The diameter of the small holes should be about half way between the AF of the hex and the across corners of the allen key. Start with the bits of allen key long, and grind a taper. Press them through with a strong vise, then grind off the excess.

In use, always fully remove the locking peening, then fit the tool using suitable spacers so that you can securely nip it up with the ball pin nut. The tool must be clamped so that there is no slack, or it will cam out. Then hammer round the tool to unscrew the ball pin outer.

The tool shown has removed quite a few without problem. It can also fit the new part, but you need the proverbial scaffolding pipe or similar, and ideally a similar length of heavy angle iron fixed by a couple of wheel nuts to hold the strut steady. Controlled tightening is better than hammering it round. Indeed, the correct torque can be applied using a spring balance at a known radius.

This method can often be used to make up strong pin spanners, and avoids the problem with a home made one piece tool of correct heat treatment.

Fred

Post by **quintet** » 15 May 2010, 13:47

* throws in 2peneth *
I had this fault on my Xantia when i bought it (recently), it was the forward o/s/f suspension bush, i replaced the worn bush with a gsf one (about £9.00) but that was about as much use as a chocolate fire guard! so as the rear bush was also split i fitted a 2nd hand suspension arm & this cured the fault, apart from the anti roll bar getting in the way a bit they're not that hard to change. I wouldn't advise removing the anti-roll bar as your height corrector is attached to it.
As for detecting the fault i put my car up on a ramp & stuck a pry bar into the suspension arm joints where it connects to the subframe, a bit of leverage = visible failed bush movement.