FAP Fluid priming?

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jimleshed
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FAP Fluid priming?

Post by jimleshed »

When I got my C5 (about 6 months ago), one of the first jobs I did was to refill the Eolys and cleaned the Exhaust Filter.

About 2 months ago I started getting "clean the filter" messages again, so I recleaned the filter.

What I am wondering is this: As my Eolys tank was bone dry, does the pump (wherever it is) self prime? Thats what I was hoping when I first filled...but now I am starting to think it doesnt as the Filter needs yet another clean (done about 3k miles since last clean).

If it does need priming/testing/replacing how is this done?
Thanks all!
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Post by myglaren »

Don't take this as gospel but the was talk on another forum that the early models, if they ran out, had to have a new reservoir and ecu :(

The trick was to refill them long before the notification came on the info screen.
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Post by jimleshed »

Hmmm...
If that is the case it may be simpler to drain the Eolys tank and put a smidge in each tank fill! My 5 litres probably equates to 50cc per tank (assuming the 5litres lasts about 50k miles and about 500 miles per tank), that might be the simplest/cheapest solution!
JLS
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Post by h2ocooler »

Im sure I saw on my C5 2.2 that the lexia says it injects 28 grams into the tank, next time I plug it in I will look see.
Are you not geting any other warnings come up?
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Post by myglaren »

It is supposed to calculate the quantity of fuel added (when you close the filler cap door) and dose an appropriate amount - i.e. xml/L.
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Post by jimleshed »

Yes, I get the low additive warning, but since I knew it was full I was ignoring it until I got it reset (found a nice garage who would do it).

I'm used to ignoring the warnings, as it also has only 2 wheel sensors so reminds me that one is missing (?), plus it tells me every now and again that one of the remaining wheels with sensors is low pressure...it isnt, so i guess that sesnor is on the way out too!
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Post by jimleshed »

Wonder if the recalc is actually working then?
A couple of tanks ago it actually ran out of fuel, while the guage was still showing above reserve, and the low light hadnt come on. Since then I've been careful to refill before it gets to 3/4 empty... something strange going on there!
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Post by myglaren »

Mate with a Berlingo ran out at the weekend.
The system 'scans' the fuel level periodically, rather than it being a real-time indication.

You can fill up and it can take a few minutes before it rescans and shows full.

If there is a glitch in the scanning process it could (and will) leave you with an empty tank.

Fault will presumably lie with the in-tank pump and fuel level measuring device.
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Post by tonupteabag »

myglaren wrote:Mate with a Berlingo ran out at the weekend.
The system 'scans' the fuel level periodically, rather than it being a real-time indication.

You can fill up and it can take a few minutes before it rescans and shows full.

If there is a glitch in the scanning process it could (and will) leave you with an empty tank.

Fault will presumably lie with the in-tank pump and fuel level measuring device.
so much for modern technology! i still dont let the gauge fall below the quarter (thanks to owning fords):wink:
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Post by myglaren »

I always run mine until I get the low fuel warning the it accepts around 62 litres.
Supposed to be a 65 Litre tank but I have managed to get 72 in on one occasion.
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Post by jimleshed »

I always ran mine till the warning light too...but was noticing that the tank took a lot of fuel to fill, but as I hadnt checked the capacity at that point I wasnt too worried!

Anyway, back to the original point, does anyone know where the Eolys pump is, and any priming clues? I guess as the warning says "low" it still tries to pump, so I may be ok just sorting out priming...if I can get at the thing. From memory it must be on top of the fuel tank, so may be virtually impossible to remove without dropping the tank.
Thanks all.
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Post by cachaciero »

If the system has been allowed to go "bone Dry" and the car has done significant mileage in this state then basically you are in for a new filter as the carbon content will be untreated with cerine and therefore unburnable under the normal regeneration phase and it is unlikely that you will be able to clean the filter with anything available to most people. (Maybe a burn through the filter with oxy acetylene followed by an acid bath might do it)

As I understand it the ECU will shut the pump down after it has calculated that it has pumped 7 litres of fluid that's a tank an a half. When the system is reset the ECU zero's the amount pumped counter so this is a situation not normally encountered if the system is maintained correctly.

An examination with a Lexia would be able to confirm this.

So replace the filter get the ECU reset and checked out with a Lexia and you should be good.

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Post by jimleshed »

I was half tempted by a lexia3 anyway...this might just tip it!

I have cleaned the filter already, as I have a kiln to hand (800C cleans most things) and its pretty close to how they do it in the factory. Its not a hard job, just a pain to do every few thousand miles...

(and I didnt let it go dry, prevous owner did) - think he ran it until the prospective cost of work was too high. I bought it at Auction before looking too closely.... but its a lovely car!
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Post by cachaciero »

jimleshed wrote:I was half tempted by a lexia3 anyway...this might just tip it!

I have cleaned the filter already, as I have a kiln to hand (800C cleans most things) and its pretty close to how they do it in the factory. Its not a hard job, just a pain to do every few thousand miles...

(and I didnt let it go dry, prevous owner did) - think he ran it until the prospective cost of work was too high. I bought it at Auction before looking too closely.... but its a lovely car!
Ah..! unfortunate choice of words I should have known that anybody that posts here would not have abused the car by running it dry of anything :-)

Seriously as regards a Lexia if you are going to do any maintenance / trouble shooting on these cars then a Lexia is a worthwhile, I would say essential investment, mine has payed for itself inside a year just by the ability to get to the right bit to change first time.

A kiln @ 800 C ?? well I guess that's a piece of kit that most people won't have lying around the workshop :-)

I guess that would burn the carbon out, not sure about any cerine, my understanding was that the way used filters were refurbed was to put them in an acid bath, because normally filters get choked not by carbon which should get burned of by the regeneration process but by a build up of cerine ash.

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Post by jimleshed »

my cleaning is a 2 stage thing - cook at 800C for an hour (actually overnight, as it takes a while to heat up and cool down) then a good Vacuum to remove residual ash. I could take it to 1200C but as I cant take out the filter from the exhaust box (how is that done without destroying the wire retaining ring?) it goes into the kiln (just) as a complete unit at a temp not likely to deform the steel.
The copies almost a process I saw online while investigating Eolys following links from the manufacturers if I recall correctly.

As mine is an early C5, I will need a Lex with the older type 30 pin connector/adaptor I guess. Probably of chinese origin. Will take a look at Fleabay.
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