Aux belt idler pulley?

dieseldoggy · Unread post by **dieseldoggy** » 03 May 2010, 00:27

hi all whats the routine with the bearing etc that adjusts the tension or holds it? it's the one that is on a spring loaded arm with needle roller bearings init and shock absorber on back of it.ive a spare cast iron bracket with bits onit but that also needs bearings doing but thought i'd may'be sort it out then put lot on car?

admiral51 · Unread post by **admiral51** » 03 May 2010, 09:06

Have a real good read through This Topic

Colin

Gaskin · Unread post by **Gaskin** » 03 May 2010, 18:07

When I changed mine recently, I went down the 'remove HP pump and alternator to allow removal of the bracket with the idler on' route. I couldn't see how you could access the tension spring retaining bolt in situ. Not a difficult job, just long winded. If you do remove the bracket, enjoy the selection of different types of bolts/hex screws used to secure it! And have fun getting the locating lugs to line up. Also note the location of every washer and spacer used on the HP pump mounting bolts some of which can't be seen until they drop off as you remove the bolts. I had one left over after putting everything back together - doesn't seem to be vital as all seems to run OK.

Cheers

Duncan

exect · Unread post by **exect** » 04 May 2010, 13:16

I don't know if the 1.9td is different from the 2.1 but I found that it was impossible to wiggle it out from below.
Regards
Exect

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 04 May 2010, 14:11

I did mine last week on the 1.9 TD.. as mentioned the lower spring tensioner bolt is tricky.. it is possible with a long ?6mm allen key and some percywhatsit, down by the base of injection pump..

Later in the job, I dropped the engine down to get much needed access to the tensioner roller itself.. it was not a pleasant job really.. but all went ok in the end

Did not have to remove much from engine expect the upper right engine mount, and of course the wheel, wheel arch liner, some intercooler pipework (to get at that pesky spring lower bolt), ECU and its house..

the tensioner bit cost me £35.. I fitted this to the existing spring and back plate etc.. think I spent 2-3 hours doing this job, which seems ridiclous.. the V6 has possibly a more accessable aux belt set up than the TD, certainly no worse !

John

Unread post by **citroenxm** » 04 May 2010, 15:12

Just to make a point - theres TWO different types of these hopless tensioners!

Both fit the same way, and work the same way, the difference is VERY early ones had a Metal Roller tensioner, were later ones had Plastic Rollers, the early and Later rollers wont go on each arm.. I also found that later tensioners with the plastic rollers ARE the same rollers as fitted to the Modified sort as found on HDi engines!! I know this because I have a HDI roller on my TD tensioner..

The setup before this was even better, it used a tensioner simmilar to the HDi setup, but kept the Manual Adjuster, these are found on Late 1996 cars..

So this auto tensioner business went through 3 stages! The First the best, and the HDi one and strongest!

Paul

jgra1 · Unread post by **jgra1** » 04 May 2010, 15:25

and also, the 'other' lower idler roller is adjustable too , quite why i dont know