Saga of the rear wheel grinding on the brake caliper !!!!!

JonWill · Unread post by **JonWill** » 02 May 2010, 13:17

Following the advice of forum members I hunted down Plusgas ( A mission in its self), Got the tools out with a heat gun and dived in. Loads of Plusgas on the back of the bolt and heat along the lenght of the top bolt, within minutes the bolt was out enough for the caliper to move.

Putting the bolt back in slightly I moved on the second , Same as before, nice as you like the bolt started to come out then stopped

, I thing the bolt as snapped!!!!!!!!!!

So gentlemen, Please advise, Where do I go from here on ????????

JonWill · Unread post by **JonWill** » 02 May 2010, 14:45

The caliper in now off and yes the bolt had snapped, Its left about 8 mil of thread proud of the mounting plate. Please advise as to the best way of removing the rest of the bolt ?????????

KEB1 · Unread post by **KEB1** » 02 May 2010, 16:25

Hi Jon,

Sorry you are having problems, you have my sympathy. With only 8mm of thread your options are a bit limited. The first thing I would try would be to fit a couple of nuts, lock them together and try and turn it out on those. However, with only 8mm it might not work as the nuts would have to be fairly thin.
You could try cutting a slot in the stud and using a cranked screwdriver to wind it out. The only other option would be to buy, borrow or hire a stud extractor and use that. Otherwise, have you got a pillar drill or a local, friendly engineering workshop who would drill it out for you ?
We have all been there.

Cheers,

Kristian.

JonWill · Unread post by **JonWill** » 02 May 2010, 17:00

Keb1, Thanks for the pointers, Having looked at the back of the caliper, I know I will have to go through it all again on the other side, so hopefully I'll no better from this.

Pleiades · Unread post by **Pleiades** » 02 May 2010, 18:19

Jon.

Before you eat up the remaining 8mm, try this.

Clean the bit up well then put a nut on as far as it will go, it does not have to be the same thread as long as you can get it on. Then if you have the means or know someone that can, fill the inner of the nut with a decent weld, welding the remaining part of the bolt to the nut.

Let it cool for a couple of munutes and then it should come out as the welding heat will have broken the loctite and / or rust.

If you cannot get it welded, then heat the suspension arm around the threaded bit to expand and release the loctite, a fine flame from an oxy acetylene torch is best here as you want the hole around the bolt to expand rather than the bolt itself, expanding the bolt will just hold it in tighter!

A top tip for releasing loctite is this.

Rub some soap from a normal bar of soap on the bit to be warmed up, then apply heat untill the soap residue goes black, loctite will give up at 300 degrees C and that is the same heat that the soap goes black at.

Regards
Martin.

JonWill · Unread post by **JonWill** » 03 May 2010, 13:51

To late, what was left of the thread is now alot less and it looks like I need a garage, What looked like a fairly easy job as turned into abit of a mare, fighting me all the way. Knowing I'll have to do the other caliper the expense against cars worth is being questioned. Could this be the end of the C5................

Unread post by **myglaren** » 03 May 2010, 14:08

JonWill wrote:To late, what was left of the thread is now alot less and it looks like I need a garage, What looked like a fairly easy job as turned into abit of a mare, fighting me all the way. Knowing I'll have to do the other caliper the expense against cars worth is being questioned. Could this be the end of the C5................

Hardly a reason to dump the C5. You should be able to get it out using a power drill and some decent drill bits. Use increasingly larger bits until there isn't much left of the bolt and you should be able to peel the remains out with a screwdriver. Watch out for sharp bits when it comes out though.

Unread post by **RichardW** » 03 May 2010, 14:57

If you post up where you are Jon, someone nearby might have a MIG they can wave at it - no thread required for this really, just a nut that's not far off the bolt diameter, and away you go.

Xantidote · Unread post by **Xantidote** » 03 May 2010, 15:22

If the bolt is exposed. you might still be able to weld on to it, which I'd go for first, leaving the option of drilling out till last. I find it's not so easy finding the true centre of the bolt, to drill it out without risk of damaging the threaded part)

If I find a bolt doesn't become easier as it's being undone, I retighten again, apply more Plus Gas and/or heat, and then undo again, carrying out this recycling until bolt's out.

Good luck. Surely hardly worth condemming the car just because of this bolt?

Unread post by **DHallworth** » 04 May 2010, 09:47

If worst comes to worst, could you not drill the bolt out and just use a long bolt with a nut on the back of it to hold the caliper on?

David.

JonWill · Unread post by **JonWill** » 04 May 2010, 20:45

Ok,Ok Ive seen the light, the work goes on.

JonWill · Unread post by **JonWill** » 17 May 2010, 17:23

One C5 back on the road

, Both rear capilers replaced, removing the second one was just as hard as the first

and yes the bolts broke

even taking the greatest of care. Thanks to all those who gave advice, Im now a black belt at drilling bolts out.

KEB1 · Unread post by **KEB1** » 17 May 2010, 18:25

Congrats Jon,

Glad you managed to fix it

Just wish I could get my ZX back on the road

Cheers,

Kristian.

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 17 May 2010, 18:59

so whats wrong with your ZX Kristian,

or have you already posted your woz and i have forgotten/missed it,

and were abouts are you,

regards malcolm

KEB1 · Unread post by **KEB1** » 17 May 2010, 21:23

Hi Malcolm,

See ZX rear brake job topic. I'm in sunny (I hope for the next few days) Essex .

Cheers,

Kristian.