Just when you thought you were winning......

Stempy · Unread post by **Stempy** » 18 Apr 2010, 15:54

......Flushed with the success of the radiator change I thought the V6 was in tip top condition for my hols in France next week.

Went to see my mum this morning, drove out of the drive and thought ahh, I forgot the tomato plants I was going to take, so I turned round back into the drive to be confronted with a big green puddle.

jumped out quick and looked under the car to see a steady stream of LHM pouring out of the HA valve block

Whacked it on low and grabbed a 12mm spanner and decrompressed it and left a bucket under there to catch any remains then went off in the Kangoo to see mum.

Anyway, been under there this afternoon and the leak is from where the elctrovalve meets the valve block. Sadly I'm having a bit of bother getting it off. One of the union nuts has rusted solid to the pipe that feeds the suspension and although the thread has freed up, the pipe is now twisting as I turn the nut and I'm fearful that if I keep twisting the pipe is going to fracture. Currently having a tea break in the hope that penetrating fluid will do the trick.

I suppose at least it didn't happen on the ferry

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 18 Apr 2010, 17:33

Oh, so sorry to hear this Stempy..

It's getting a common fault now. the electrovalve body corrodes and exposes the O ring as in this pic below:

the green arrow reveals all...

A "get me home" is to pull the Hydractive fuse F8 (20A Yellow) in the engine bay fusebox to force hard always. the valve will not then leak.

Reeplacements cost over £150

To save getting the block itself out, you can try unscrewing the elerctrovalve via the 16mm hex on top of it. If this just splits the valve in two, you can then get a deep 24mm slim socket onto the big hex of the valve. If the corrosion is not too bad, there should be just enough purchase to bring the valeve body out although you may have to grind the socket sides a bit slimmer to fit snugly.

Procure a replacement from a breakers, preferebly a front one; they are the same. Fronts are likely to be less/not corroded due to oil leaks protecting them.

If you get a duff one, as long as it has a good body, it can be rescued.

Flare nuts on the sphere block demands a very good flare nut spanner, Plus gas and maybe carefully applied heat... I have a vague feeling the flare nuts on a MK2 are 16mm (definitely 17mm on a MK1) and this is a very unusual size for a flare nut spanner.

Hope that helps Stempy...

Stempy · Unread post by **Stempy** » 18 Apr 2010, 18:42

Well I did get the block out eventually but had to resort to mole grips so the nut is rather mangled. I had a spare block as it happens but it's off an XM and slightly different. The elecrovalve itself though is a goodun so I've swapped them over, even had a new O ring in stock

There are a couple of sleeves that fit over the large pipes but the left hand one is stuck in the block so it'll have to stay stuck for now.

I'm gonna try and whack it all back together and see what happens but I've got a feeling I may need a new pipe as it got twisted quite a bit. If I get it done in time I may risk it a take it to France, otherwise it'll be the Kangoo.

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 18 Apr 2010, 19:17

I spray all the pipes and connections as well as all the inaccessable rust traps with oil about once a year, certainly saves on hydraulic leaks.

Peter

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 18 Apr 2010, 19:33

That's good news Stempy

Fingers crossed it'll be good for France...

Peter.N. wrote:I spray all the pipes and connections as well as all the inaccessable rust traps with oil about once a year, certainly saves on hydraulic leaks.

Yes, a very good idea Peter. I've taken to spraying waxoyl around the valve blocks and pipes...

Seems this failure is directly related to how much salt is used in any given winter...

I've been out looking at an electrovalve and I shall, for my next project, try making a new body out of a billet of aluminium.

This is one great strength of my Activa project, it's a great test-bed for things like this

One of our members has suggested that perhaps I should look into making replacement strut tops

I fear that's beyond my falilities sadly...

Stempy · Unread post by **Stempy** » 18 Apr 2010, 20:46

Well just about managed to get it all back together before dark. Started her up and so far so good, she went up and down and no sign of a leak yet. Just need to put the spare wheel hanger back and get some more LHM tomorrow then France first thing Tuesday with buttocks clenched

Sadly I have a job in Birmingham tomorrow and need to be on site at 7.30am which doesn't leave me a lot of time.

Do you think I should bleed the brakes?

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 18 Apr 2010, 20:53

Excellent ! If no leaks so far, I think you can say all is well.

Stempy wrote: Do you think I should bleed the brakes?

Strictly, it's not a bad idea too but the bits you've disturbed will not have allowed any significant air into the brake dead-ends so I reckon you'll be OK. Quick test: spray the rear disks with water, allow then to flash rust and then go for a very short drive (mere yards) whilst applying the brakes. If the rears polish up very quickly, they're basically OK.

Enjoy France

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 18 Apr 2010, 22:11

I know where you will be able to sell some XM strut tops Jim

Stempy · Unread post by **Stempy** » 20 Apr 2010, 20:13

Made it! Even after being stuck on the M25 for an hour and a half when it was closed due to accident and then the ferry breaking down!

The V6 never missed a beat

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 20 Apr 2010, 20:46

Brilliant news Stempy

Stempy wrote: The V6 never missed a beat

As they do... You really can't fault them!

Have an absolutely lovely holiday