Xantia Doseur valve

geoffb1968 · Post by **geoffb1968** » 14 Apr 2010, 14:47

Hi there,

New to these forums but have a 97 TD Xantia which I have begun to get to know over the past few years.

My problem is the Doseur valve (otherwise known to some as teh brake master cylinder) which is p***ing out LHM into the drivers footwell!

Of course the brakes are now not working nor is the suspension or power steering as the system has no LHM left in it! Great!

I have found that the doseur which sits beneath the brake pedal is at fault and is leaking fluid. it is located in the engine compartment but I have not had the car up on ramps or anything yet but I wondered if anyone else had had to replace the doseur and if they can give me any guidance?

Many thanks

VertVega · Post by **VertVega** » 14 Apr 2010, 15:12

Hi geoffb1968, I didn't have this problem (yet

) but I learned from the forum messages.
Here's a "first aid" thread for you with pic and tech drawing --> Doseur valve <--

I think brake protector rubber has a crack on it letting LHM on the brake pedal and from there inside the car.
In the drawing it is numbered 6, part number 95 640 067.

Hope this helps

geoffb1968 · Post by **geoffb1968** » 14 Apr 2010, 15:21

Wow, thanks so much Vertvega.

I think you are probably spot on. Any idea where I could get such a part, would a Citroen dealer be able to order one if they don't stock?

Also does anyone know how difficult it is to get the Doseur out? I can see it in the engine bay but it looks a bir fiddly!

Post by **CitroJim** » 14 Apr 2010, 17:44

Your dealer can order and supply a repair kit Geoff, comprising a new mushroom and clips

geoffb1968 wrote: Also does anyone know how difficult it is to get the Doseur out? I can see it in the engine bay but it looks a bir fiddly!

A 1.9TD offers perhaps the worst access of all, beaten only by a 2.1TD and an Activa, to the dosuer.

However, after removing the turbo piping that runs in front of it, access then becomes a little easier.

The douser itself is easy enough to move to a position where the mushroom cap can be got at to change and you should manage it without needing to disconnect any pipes. The Dosuer is held by two 11mm nuts accessible each side of the brake pedal. You may need a 1/4" socket on a long extension to get good purchase on them.

Before going to all this pain, make sure your problem is not caused by a split/fallen off leakage return pipe on the dosuer valve. there are two and they can be identified by them being thin plastic pipes that connect to the douser via short lengths of fatter rubber hose. The rubber hose just loves to perish. One of these leaking can give the same symptoms of LHM pouring into the drivers footwell.

The mess is a %&*%&( to clean up as LHM attacks the sound deadening on the floor and turns it to a black gooey mess. The sound insulation foam and carpet it self can soak up unbelievable quantities of it...

geoffb1968 · Post by **geoffb1968** » 15 Apr 2010, 04:39

Jim,

Thanks so mcuh for replying. I will check the pipes you have mentioned although I think I may have done the damage myself when changing the clutch cable clip the other week. I had to play about with the brake pedal to get access.

You say that the valve should be moveable without disconnecting any pipes, including the thin metal ones? They seem like they should be disconnected. I don't want to break any pipes while moving the valve itself.

Geoff

Post by **CitroJim** » 15 Apr 2010, 05:57

You'd be surprised at how much "give" the metal pipes have in them Geoff. They're tough too.

Provided you flex them gently and don't go mad, they'll give plenty.

It's better than disconnecting them.

Your biggest issue on a 1.9TD is removing the turbo pipes to make room...

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 15 Apr 2010, 08:12

here is the TRADE price and part No./s for the two parts you will require

Part Number Description Quantity Price excl. VAT Price incl. VAT Total incl. VAT Selection
95640067 BRAKE PROTECTOR 7.77 GBP 9.13 GBP 9.13 GBP

5424455 CNTRL-UNIT RING 5.69 GBP 6.69 GBP 6.69 GBP

as Jim says no need to disconect any pipes, i have repaired two or three of these now, and i rotate the dozer valve up on its end or more to gain access to the protector cap and retaining ring,

regards malcolm

geoffb1968 · Post by **geoffb1968** » 15 Apr 2010, 12:06

Thanks so much guys. What is involved to remove the turbo pipes?

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 15 Apr 2010, 13:12

quadruple jointed wrist's TEA HE and loads of PERCY WHAT SIT

regards malcolm

Post by **CitroJim** » 15 Apr 2010, 13:55

citronut wrote:quadruple jointed wrist's TEA HE and loads of PERCY WHAT SIT

Yes, That's what's needed Malcolm

Geoff, Malcolm supplies Percywhatsit to forum members to assist with those tricky jobs that Citroens do throw at us occasionally. An inferior version of Malcolm's stuff is available from othger sources and is generally known as perseverence.

Arm yourself with a good helping of percywhatsit and undo the jubilee clips that attach the outer of the two pipes to the turbo compressor outlet. The jubilee clips are just about accessible through the wheelarch. For those of us not possessed of Malcolm's triple-jointed wrists, I find a 7mm nutspinner a good tool for the clips; this is a 7mm socket on the end of a long screwdriver esentially.

Once that end of the pipe is free, it can be teased out of the way of the dosuer and removed completely by discommecting the other end of whatever it is connected to. Aplolgies as it's been a while since I've owned /spannered a 1.9TD and the memory is a bit faint on the absolute detail.

Hopefully, that'll be enough access. If you need to remove the pipe going to the compressor inlet, you will need extra-strong percywhatsit and a 10mm socket on the end of a long 1/4" extension to undo the two small studs that secure the pipe flange to the turbo. These are a bit of a fiddle... I think, if my memory does serve OK, that just moving one will be good enough.

Whenever you have turbo orifices open, bung them with clean rag as soon as you can. Any foreign objects getting inside a turbo has the capacity to seriously spoil your day...

Post by **RichardW** » 15 Apr 2010, 14:06

On later cars (eg my 97 TD) the outlet pipe was bolted directly to the turbo, no jubilee clip. I have no idea how you are supposed to get that off! I tried on mine when I was doing the glow plugs, but I couldn't get enough purchase on the bolts using one of those bendy screwdriver jobbies, and you'd need a lot of flexible extensions to get in there! Might be possible to remove the engine mount and pull the engine forward to make a bit more room. Or put your arms through a mangle

geoffb1968 · Post by **geoffb1968** » 15 Apr 2010, 15:12

Many many thanks to you all for your excellent advice. I will be giving it a go soon and will report on my progress. So glad you guys are online.

Cheers

Geoff

jgra1 · Post by **jgra1** » 15 Apr 2010, 16:18

Geoff in my xantia blog there may be a pic of the back of the engine showing turbo .. i cant see the blog here at work..
John

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 16 Apr 2010, 08:32

Jim wrote
"7mm socket on the end of a long screwdriver"

i use a 1/4 drive ratchet with a 7MM socket on and no extentions,

this is as long as the last person in there pointted the jubilee clip the right direction for easy access, (if you have quadruply jointted wrist's)

and i do the same as Jim for the two 10mm bolts (not studs) on the other pipe,

but i think you dont need to remove the boltted pipe

regards malcolm

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