Have a leaky Lucas diesel pump on a ZX 1.9D (leak on top). Is there a relatively simple procedure I can follow to replace the 'O' rings which a friend tells me is probably the cause? I have bought the new rings but don't favour paying a mechanic 100quid for the job. Have been told its fiddly but not impossible a job. Any help WBA.
Thanks, M, Staffs
Citroen ZX 1.9D
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spider
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I believe its quite possible in situ on this pump, although a bit fiddly. I'm sure someone will be along shortly with some pics or a link.
The main things are a spotless (essential) exterior of the pump, you don't want the slightest bit of dirt getting inside and refitting the control levers properly afterwards.
Is it actually leaking from around the control arms then ? , I'd expect it to take air in and run badly first, although stranger things have happened.
Hopefully someone will be along with a link to help you in a bit.
The main things are a spotless (essential) exterior of the pump, you don't want the slightest bit of dirt getting inside and refitting the control levers properly afterwards.
Is it actually leaking from around the control arms then ? , I'd expect it to take air in and run badly first, although stranger things have happened.
Hopefully someone will be along with a link to help you in a bit.
Andy.
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
91 205D-Turbo, gone but still missed
02 106D, TUD5B, gone but not really missed apart from the MPG
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Yes, can be done in-situ if the pump is not armoured. And in my experience the cover does not always need replacing. New O rings often sort it.
This is how:
Clean the top and sides of the pump so thoroughly they are spotless. Dirt is an enemy of diesel pumps and soon the innards will be exposed.
Remove the throttle and cold-start levers noting carefully their orientation and arrangement of cables, springs and so on. You may need to remove the cold-start cable support bracket from the front of the pump. Remove the fuel return line banjo on the lid.
Essentially, you need to remove anything that will foul the lid lifting clean off the top of the pump.
When all is clear and you are left with just the throttle and cold-start shafts poking up through the lid, remove carefully and in turn the four torx screws that secure the lid. Treat them like cylinder head bolts and undo a bit at a time to avoid possible warpage of the lid.
As you lift, push the throttle spindle down with your thumb and through the lid boss as this and it's spring mechanism stays put in the pump. Note carefully the orientation of the throttle lever and how it sits.
Note that you are now looking at a pool of diesel in the pump and it's innards are laid bare. Guard against any foreign matter whatsoever getting in. Cover it with a clean lint-free rag. Be aware that if anything at all does drop in, the pump will have to come off and be fully stripped and cleaned.
Be aware too that some folk are very sensitive to diesel and in some it can cause a nasty case of contact dermatitis. Unless you know your skin is 100% OK with diesel, don't take a chance and wear nitrile (not latex - they melt) gloves.
Under the lid you will see a rubber gasket in a groove. Replace this as a matter of course even if the original leak was not from there. Take care of the top mating face of the pump and be very careful not to scratch it.
On the throttle shaft you will see two small O rings in grooves. These are the main cause of the weeps. I find it best to carefully cut them with a small, sharp pair of wire cutters as they will be hard and very inflexible. Once cut, pick them out of the grooves with tweezers. Soak the replacements in diesel and roll them on.
Push the cold start spindle out of the lid, noting the orientation of it's camplate before you push it out. Replace the two O rings on this shaft using the same method as for the throttle spindle.
Ensuring the cold-start camplate and throttle assembly is correctly orientated, reassemble.
Spares can be obtained from any good diesel specialist, such as Merlin Diesel. You will need to buy a full gasket set and it will contain thousands of little things you will not need but this is the only way. The O rings are not available separately.
Also, it is vital you give the spares supplier the EXACT model number of the pump as despite them all looking much the same, they do vary. The model number will be found on the blue plate that is riveted to the underside of the pump and the number will begin something like DPC-203... You'll likely need a mirror to see it and practice reading the numbers and letters reversed!!!
Hope that helps...
This is how:
Clean the top and sides of the pump so thoroughly they are spotless. Dirt is an enemy of diesel pumps and soon the innards will be exposed.
Remove the throttle and cold-start levers noting carefully their orientation and arrangement of cables, springs and so on. You may need to remove the cold-start cable support bracket from the front of the pump. Remove the fuel return line banjo on the lid.
Essentially, you need to remove anything that will foul the lid lifting clean off the top of the pump.
When all is clear and you are left with just the throttle and cold-start shafts poking up through the lid, remove carefully and in turn the four torx screws that secure the lid. Treat them like cylinder head bolts and undo a bit at a time to avoid possible warpage of the lid.
As you lift, push the throttle spindle down with your thumb and through the lid boss as this and it's spring mechanism stays put in the pump. Note carefully the orientation of the throttle lever and how it sits.
Note that you are now looking at a pool of diesel in the pump and it's innards are laid bare. Guard against any foreign matter whatsoever getting in. Cover it with a clean lint-free rag. Be aware that if anything at all does drop in, the pump will have to come off and be fully stripped and cleaned.
Be aware too that some folk are very sensitive to diesel and in some it can cause a nasty case of contact dermatitis. Unless you know your skin is 100% OK with diesel, don't take a chance and wear nitrile (not latex - they melt) gloves.
Under the lid you will see a rubber gasket in a groove. Replace this as a matter of course even if the original leak was not from there. Take care of the top mating face of the pump and be very careful not to scratch it.
On the throttle shaft you will see two small O rings in grooves. These are the main cause of the weeps. I find it best to carefully cut them with a small, sharp pair of wire cutters as they will be hard and very inflexible. Once cut, pick them out of the grooves with tweezers. Soak the replacements in diesel and roll them on.
Push the cold start spindle out of the lid, noting the orientation of it's camplate before you push it out. Replace the two O rings on this shaft using the same method as for the throttle spindle.
Ensuring the cold-start camplate and throttle assembly is correctly orientated, reassemble.
Spares can be obtained from any good diesel specialist, such as Merlin Diesel. You will need to buy a full gasket set and it will contain thousands of little things you will not need but this is the only way. The O rings are not available separately.
Also, it is vital you give the spares supplier the EXACT model number of the pump as despite them all looking much the same, they do vary. The model number will be found on the blue plate that is riveted to the underside of the pump and the number will begin something like DPC-203... You'll likely need a mirror to see it and practice reading the numbers and letters reversed!!!
Hope that helps...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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mytlemeboy
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Citroen ZX Leaky Lucas
Diesel fuel pump No Longer Leaky. Fiddly 'O' ring thing expletively, 'tho successfully fixed. Many thanks to all who supplied assistance.