1.9 TD ZX (1993)few minor problems help needed(Fixing it up)

PDS · Unread post by **PDS** » 23 Feb 2010, 16:22

I've just bought the above off my long time MOT mechanic at a decent price.There's a few little niggles I'd like to sort out.

1:Rev counter works sometimes.Checked around the net and the starting point would be to clean the connector from or around the sensor.I've looked underneath and followed the instructions on another site but just cannot seem to locate it or know what I'm looking for.I have a Haynes manual but that's no help.
anyone have a picture of what I'm looking for and do I look from the top of the engine or from underneath?

2:Trip meter doesn't work(nothing really but would like to fix).

3:Central locking fob not working but central locking works on the key.Tried the 20 second re-program but no joy.PO says he changed the batteries in the fob and it worked for a while then stopped.This may be to do with the fact his brother-in-law who had the car before him disabled the Alarm.

Is this a Factory alarm?

and I will try to re-connect the alarm but any info would be helpful

Please note I am a half decent home-mechanic and used to tracking electrical problems and run Classic Honda motorcycles re-built from the crank up

ken newbold · Unread post by **ken newbold** » 23 Feb 2010, 16:34

I don't think that's a factory alarm as it differs from mine.

Your rev counter sensor is behind the engine and fits through a hole so that it read from the back of the flywheel, it's towards the top of the flywheel so you should be able to get it from above, but sometimes easier from underneath.
It could be the sensor that's failing or it could simply be not close enough to the flywheel.

I think they have a brown connector on.

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 23 Feb 2010, 18:14

That's an aftermarket alarm from what I see. I'd assume the factory one is like the 306 and inside the bumper ( ! )

You are looking for the TDC sensor , as posted above, its easier to find from above mostly. Typically it will have a greyish wire about 2-3mm thick from memory. I'd assume it may have just died, they are not expensive anyway. They do not seem to like being removed and refitted in my experience.

Regarding the remote, its not unknown for some of them to go bad and drain the batteries. Replace the batteries with new and program it in and see if it works. At least that way you`ll know where the problem is.

If these are like the 306 and the alarm control module under the drivers seat has been unplugged, you cannot code a new remote into the system unfortunately I think...

Regarding the trip meter, I was unsuccessful in trying to fix my 205 one, despite having the panel in a lot of parts, its a horrible fiddly job to put the speedometer workings back together

, try wiggling the button a bit it may just be stuck in.

Featch · Unread post by **Featch** » 23 Feb 2010, 18:49

The remotes on ZXs are infra red and matched to the receiver as a pair. They can't be programmed like the Xantia ones. The range is short even with new batteries and is line of sight to the receiver in the roof only.
Make sure the battery contact surfaces in the remote are clean and the little flexible contact isn't flattened.
If all fails then matched pairs come up on eBay frequently. Ones from Pug 106s work fine in ZXs. Buying a blip on its own is a waste of money

PDS · Unread post by **PDS** » 23 Feb 2010, 20:50

Thanks for the great and speedy replies.Will use all the above info.

Note:This is my 1st diesel after some 30 years driving.It's a little beauty of a ride and as nippy as hell.250,000 on the clock and purrs like a kitten with fangs(It's been pretty well maintained).

It does have a gearbox problem that I knew about going in but will sort that in summer.

Not had as much fun of a drive in a car for years

1993 Citroen ZX
2X 1980 Honda ZAB CX 500s

This is my CX/GL forum just out of interest,

http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdelivered.com/

Sl4yer · Unread post by **Sl4yer** » 23 Feb 2010, 21:10

See if you can see the light from the remotes on a phone camera. Chances are they are OK. The central locking control on mine was broken when I got it. A second-hand unit fixed it, but only briefly. It's currently working on a new unit (about £60 from Citroen, probably more now).

James

PDS · Unread post by **PDS** » 25 Feb 2010, 00:40

Just before I go looking for the Rev connector again is it on this picture?

and if so which what is it.

Thanks

Also any tips on a gearbox removal and replacement

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 25 Feb 2010, 08:07

no it wont be as its not attatched to the gear box, if you look to the rear and bottom edge of the head, it is held in place by a plastic bracket and it points towards the engine side of the fly wheel, above were the speedo cable enters the diff

were abouts are you

regards malcolm

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 25 Feb 2010, 11:43

As a guide, its this kind of "area" if it helps

EDIT... I did not see Malcolm's reply

, maybe the pic will help in a fashion anyway.

PDS · Unread post by **PDS** » 25 Feb 2010, 15:15

I'm sure that will help Spider.Will be looking at the weekend.Going to clean and re-grease the drive linkages as well

Man I love this little car more every day and that's from ,"Biker" who has had little use for cars except for work and shopping.It puts a smile on my face even going to work(And an even bigger one coming home<grin>

PDS · Unread post by **PDS** » 25 Feb 2010, 20:42

citronut wrote:no it wont be as its not attatched to the gear box, if you look to the rear and bottom edge of the head, it is held in place by a plastic bracket and it points towards the engine side of the fly wheel, above were the speedo cable enters the diff

were abouts are you

regards malcolm

Thanks for this as well

PS
From another post I cleaned the central locking fob connectors and it's working most time now but still a little intermittent.Think I will have the sensor out and check and clean.

Also done a fuel check and getting 51 to the gallon which is superb for a 250,000 mile engine.Will save me loads over the next couple of months in my 500 mile weekly commute

PDS · Unread post by **PDS** » 27 Feb 2010, 14:57

Well found the sensor/connector and cleaned it up and sprayed with Switch cleaner and secured.Didn't help

Must be at the dash e.g dry joint/circuit board problem that that's where I'll be off to next sometime.

Just for a reference here's a picture of the aforementioned,

Sorry about piccy quality but hope it helps some one else.
Note:Had to slack of the 10mm pinch bolt to remove the socket.

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 27 Feb 2010, 15:02

Trace the wiring from the sensor up from the gearbox area.

If its like my 205, theres a plug about 10 inches along the cable from the sensor, any problem here will cause it to go intermittent (I'll be honest sometimes mine does not work although it works 99% of the time) , mines sort of near the base of the oil filler area, although I put it there.

The problem is the current is so minute (it is a pickup afterall) anything wrong will result in it not working.

If you find a connector for it further along inspect it carefully.

PDS · Unread post by **PDS** » 27 Feb 2010, 15:31

spider wrote:Trace the wiring from the sensor up from the gearbox area.

If its like my 205, theres a plug about 10 inches along the cable from the sensor, any problem here will cause it to go intermittent (I'll be honest sometimes mine does not work although it works 99% of the time) , mines sort of near the base of the oil filler area, although I put it there.

The problem is the current is so minute (it is a pickup afterall) anything wrong will result in it not working.

If you find a connector for it further along inspect it carefully.

Thanks Spider but unfortunately I've found that and it was old small spade connectors so removed them and used a fresh/new connector block

There is of course a possibility of a none continuity break-down in the wires so will test that.

ken newbold · Unread post by **ken newbold** » 28 Feb 2010, 00:58

If you have a multimeter, you could test th sensor at the connectors, not sure what the resisance should be, but if it's open circuit, it's no good.

When you refitted the sensor, did you push it right in?