help again please stiff steering!
Moderator: RichardW
help again please stiff steering!
cars sreering goes stiff when cold took to citroen garage who seemed to fix the problem-they changed the fluid and put in a new flow valve,things seemed fine,but the steerings going stiff again[:(]could it be the regulator? its ticking over about once every 10 secs!!!! and if so shouldnt the garage have seen this problem too??? what do i do know????
I agree with what has been said so far.
I think you may have 2 separate problems - one being the ticking of the regulator and the other being a tired pump. I would deal with the ticking first as with the regulator functioning properly there may be more high pressure LHM available for the steering. Unfortunately the circuitry is such that the accumulator will not assist the steering.
The reason for frequent cycling of the regulator is falling pressure in the accumulator sphere. On the assumption that the regulator is not grossly worn there are 2 ways for the LHM to escape. The correct way is down the pipe to the safety valve and thence to the suspension and brakes and the incorrect way is back the way it came in - ie through the non-return valve and back into other parts of the regulator and up the inlet during a low pressure phase.
I am assuming that the system beyond the safety valve is sound and there is no excessive leakage from front struts etc. If this is the case then the oil must be going back through the non-return valve which is a simple ball valve. the reason is wear and damage to its seat and the good news is that you can repair it without even removing the regulator from the car.
To access it support the car properly so that you can get underneath and remove the accumulator sphere. You will need to de-pressurise the system using the screw on the front of the regulator anf I remove the pump supply hoze from the reservoir and plug it to minimise leakage.
On the base into which the sphere screws you will find a bolt securing a plate . Remove the bolt and the plate and make sure you dont swallow the ball bearing as it falls out on your face. Stick it back in its hole with a dab of grease and then tap it smartly using a BRASS punch of about 5mm diameter. Re-assemble and off you go - your clicking should be much reduced.
I've done this to 2 regulators on my BX TD (I won't go into the need for 2 here) and both have improved from about 9 sec to very slow - and not worth measuring. Now if find that when I put in 8 or 10 gallons of fuel the car will rise due to the load without the engine running - so I the accumulator is working well.
Having done this if you still have trouble with your steering I think you will need a better pump. I suspect there was little wrong with the spliter.
jeremy
I think you may have 2 separate problems - one being the ticking of the regulator and the other being a tired pump. I would deal with the ticking first as with the regulator functioning properly there may be more high pressure LHM available for the steering. Unfortunately the circuitry is such that the accumulator will not assist the steering.
The reason for frequent cycling of the regulator is falling pressure in the accumulator sphere. On the assumption that the regulator is not grossly worn there are 2 ways for the LHM to escape. The correct way is down the pipe to the safety valve and thence to the suspension and brakes and the incorrect way is back the way it came in - ie through the non-return valve and back into other parts of the regulator and up the inlet during a low pressure phase.
I am assuming that the system beyond the safety valve is sound and there is no excessive leakage from front struts etc. If this is the case then the oil must be going back through the non-return valve which is a simple ball valve. the reason is wear and damage to its seat and the good news is that you can repair it without even removing the regulator from the car.
To access it support the car properly so that you can get underneath and remove the accumulator sphere. You will need to de-pressurise the system using the screw on the front of the regulator anf I remove the pump supply hoze from the reservoir and plug it to minimise leakage.
On the base into which the sphere screws you will find a bolt securing a plate . Remove the bolt and the plate and make sure you dont swallow the ball bearing as it falls out on your face. Stick it back in its hole with a dab of grease and then tap it smartly using a BRASS punch of about 5mm diameter. Re-assemble and off you go - your clicking should be much reduced.
I've done this to 2 regulators on my BX TD (I won't go into the need for 2 here) and both have improved from about 9 sec to very slow - and not worth measuring. Now if find that when I put in 8 or 10 gallons of fuel the car will rise due to the load without the engine running - so I the accumulator is working well.
Having done this if you still have trouble with your steering I think you will need a better pump. I suspect there was little wrong with the spliter.
jeremy
Jeremy,
This brass hammer on the ball trick seems to arise often enough to justify it being described in detail & archived in the common faults & fixes section of the board.
Could I ask that you detail it out sometime in the near futurs (after Monday) & send it to Jon to post on your behalf in that section.
This way, whenever we need to refer to it we can do so by just posting a link to it & thereby save you the drama of having to sit there (if you're anything like me) hammering your typing finger to the bone constantly redoing it.
Alan S
This brass hammer on the ball trick seems to arise often enough to justify it being described in detail & archived in the common faults & fixes section of the board.
Could I ask that you detail it out sometime in the near futurs (after Monday) & send it to Jon to post on your behalf in that section.
This way, whenever we need to refer to it we can do so by just posting a link to it & thereby save you the drama of having to sit there (if you're anything like me) hammering your typing finger to the bone constantly redoing it.
Alan S
There is another way of accomplishing the same thing. It involves less brute force but slighly more work:
Attain a steel ball of the same diameter as the check valve in the accumulator sphere unit (possibly the old ball if you can buy a new one). Weld it to a suitable steel rod and then use it together with grinding paste to even out the valve seat. Make sure you rinse out the grinding paste thoroughly after you're through.
I have been told by one of my favourite (independent) Cit mechanics that some brand new hydrapneumatic Cit's have exhibit really poor sealing in this valve and that the grinding in method makes them last for life.
//NiSk
Attain a steel ball of the same diameter as the check valve in the accumulator sphere unit (possibly the old ball if you can buy a new one). Weld it to a suitable steel rod and then use it together with grinding paste to even out the valve seat. Make sure you rinse out the grinding paste thoroughly after you're through.
I have been told by one of my favourite (independent) Cit mechanics that some brand new hydrapneumatic Cit's have exhibit really poor sealing in this valve and that the grinding in method makes them last for life.
//NiSk
Getting back to the original complaint, is it possible that the filters in the flow diverter could be getting partially blocked? They are extremely fine & after hydraflush has been used in the system, you would have to wonder how much really fine particles are left still swimming around in the LHM when it is replaced.
Alan S
Alan S