Replacement Key C5

boristhespie · Unread post by **boristhespie** » 22 Nov 2009, 18:06

Need a spare key, don't have card. How much?

Unread post by **myglaren** » 22 Nov 2009, 18:57

AFAIK without the card, a lot.

boristhespie · Unread post by **boristhespie** » 22 Nov 2009, 23:07

AFAIK Okay just Googled it.

I don't want a fob, just another key for the car incase.

I have the fob but not the card.

That said just read that the key has a transponder in it even if not a fob is this the case, if so Bugger.

Unread post by **myglaren** » 22 Nov 2009, 23:27

Mate at work needed a new key for his Picasso, the key he had stopped responding to the calls from the immobiliser.

£160 including programming, which is a lot less than some I have heard of.

The handbook suggests several thousand, to replace the security system and reprogram the ECUs.

wheeler · Unread post by **wheeler** » 23 Nov 2009, 12:10

Citroen can get you the transponder code off the card for around £20 inc vat, depends on the dealership though what they charge.

Unread post by **Paul-R** » 23 Nov 2009, 15:38

My local dealer charged £20. They said that is what Citoren charge them.

Once you have the key details (you also get the locking wheelnuts details if fitted) it epends on what you want.

If you just want a key blank cut so you can physically unlock doors (ignoring the alarm if activated!) that'll costy around £8 - £9 from a competent key cutter.

If you want to be able to start the engine then it's a dealer job, I'm afraid. They will order you a replacement key with details you've just paid £20 for. I seem to recollect that they quoted about £70 a year oor two ago. When the key arrives I'm fairly sure that it'll need pairing with ECU and this is a Lexia job so budget whatever is needed for that as well. You might be able to strike a deal with Dealer on this. You will also need to pair the plip transponder but this is easy.

boristhespie · Unread post by **boristhespie** » 23 Nov 2009, 19:56

And if you dont have the card? (oh Christ)

Unread post by **xantia_v6** » 23 Nov 2009, 20:31

boristhespie wrote:And if you dont have the card? (oh Christ)

I think the £20 quoted above is the "tax" for losing the card.
Do try they dealer that originally sold the car, some keep their own copy of the details, and will supply them for free.

Unread post by **Paul-R** » 24 Nov 2009, 12:29

xantia_v6 wrote:I think the £20 quoted above is the "tax" for losing the card.

Correct.

You need to show them the car owner's registration document (with your name on it of course!) and some personal identification and then you're away. I asked them to email the information to me so now there's no piece of paper for me to lose!

ken w · Unread post by **ken w** » 13 Jan 2010, 02:32

Go to the end of this post to get your pin.

If you dont want your VIN and PIN out there on the internet try PMing one of the doers.

http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f1 ... eot-59235/

Another link that will provide some lexia and other software download support is

http://www.digital-kaos.co.uk/forums/f1 ... oad-58772/

Cheers,

Ken W

spider · Unread post by **spider** » 13 Jan 2010, 15:23

Just as a note:

It is true the manufacturers do charge the dealers around £20 for the details.

If you are going to get them, ensure you get ALL the details (ie: if they hold any other codes like wheel key etc) so if you need them again you do not have to pay again. Ensure you know the transponder code for future reference.

acrowot · Unread post by **acrowot** » 22 Jan 2010, 23:05

My Grandson has a C5,he only has key fob with the key blade in it, no other key, he has snapped the blade, so he cannot now start his car, he has the card with the keycode info in it. He has been quoted £114.00 for a keyfob with the keyblade in it, this key will have to be programmed to the cars ECU and this I am told will need the car to be present for this to be done but he cannot start the car to deliver it to the Main Agent, does anyone know if this is so, can the fob not be programmed seperately.

Unread post by **Paul-R** » 24 Jan 2010, 22:31

Eactly where has the blade snapped?

If it's the metal part then, as I posted above, you can get a key blank cut for about £8.00. Its then possible to release the remains of the old blade fom the plastic by drilling through the two small holes which lock the blade into the swivelling body.

I then cut the plastic off the new key so that there was just the new blade. There was a slight difference in the length which I had to alter and I then glued the blade into the original swivelling part of the OE key.

acrowot · Unread post by **acrowot** » 24 Jan 2010, 23:24

Paul-R wrote:Eactly where has the blade snapped?

If it's the metal part then, as I posted above, you can get a key blank cut for about £8.00. Its then possible to release the remains of the old blade fom the plastic by drilling through the two small holes which lock the blade into the swivelling body.

I then cut the plastic off the new key so that there was just the new blade. There was a slight difference in the length which I had to alter and I then glued the blade into the original swivelling part of the OE key.

Hi Paul-R Thanks for your reply, We have had a key cut and it does turn in the lock but no matter were we put the keyfob near the ignition switch and then insert the new key the key symbol remains lit and the engine turns over but will not start. I thought that by putting the keyfob next to the switch and then inserting the new key the engine would then start. The original key has snapped with about 12mm of the blade still protruding, it was not in the ignition when it snapped. One of the holes in the fob seems as though it passes through the original blade, your solution seems ideal, how much of the blade is in the fob and what glue did you use, thanks again.

Unread post by **Paul-R** » 25 Jan 2010, 10:16

From memory I think that the blade was about 3mm longer. The original blade also had two notches in where the plastic was punched throuh leaving the two little holes.

As original ithe blade is effectively just an interference fit locked into position by the plastic bits caused, presumably, by two needles when the whole lot was put together. Completist that I am, I filed out the notches as well but I don't think it's necessary if you use a decent adhesive.

Ah yes, the adhesive. I used some very special two pack adhesive used in the motor body repair trade for repairing plastic items such as bumpers, dashboards, trim and the like. It's about £25 - £30 for a twin tube pack but I use it elsewhere (I repaired one of the lugs on the headlamp) and a little goes a long way. It's designed to be used in a special syringe but that was an expense too far and I very carefully use a rod to push equal amounts out of the tubes before mixing.

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Replacement Key C5

Replacement Key C5

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