Bosch Injection pump removal

Unread post by **KennyW** » 27 Oct 2009, 09:41

Hi to the gang,

Any tips or pointers I should be aware of, prepared for,when removing my pump of my Xantia

I have removed pumps before on other makes of diesels.

Kenny

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 27 Oct 2009, 11:13

Hi Kenny

All pretty well the same really, three studs/nuts to the front plate, plus any brackets to the rear and the pipes and cables of course. I believe you can leave the sprocket in situ by locking it with the two locating bolts - that will save a bit of hassle.

Peter

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 27 Oct 2009, 13:06

Yep, it is very similar to any other Kenny, as Peter says and yes, you can leave the sprocket in place to save upsetting the cambelt by use of the two M8 timing set pins. Just be careful that the woodruff key does not make a bid for freedom as it is placed at about 10 o'colck when in time. I stuff lots of rags around so that there is no risk of it falling down inamongst the cambelt...

Two tools are almost essential: A "half moon" 13mm ring spanner to get at the lowest of the three nuts that hold the pump to the drive plate as the presence of the hydraulic pump hinders access a tad. A lump of blu-tak is also useful here as well as a lot of rag again, just in case it leaps. Also, don't loose the special washers under the fixing nuts.

You will need a small puller to release the sprocket from the tapered shaft. Unlike the Bosch pumps of yore, they don't come with the buit-in puller on the Xantia. A suitable puller is a doddle to make up from a small length of ally bar and two M7 bolts. An odd size but you can borrow a couple from the gearbox casing; they're perfect for the job.

When I get home I can post up the pictures and diagrams to make the puller and show an example of the "half moon" spanner. Unfortunately I have no access to my pictures where I am right now.

The rear securing bolt on the pump is special, with a tapered head, similar in concept to the bolts used with some HP pumps. Again, take precautions not to loose the bolt, it's collet, the washer and the nut.

Mark the pump relative to the drive plate before removal and take care when reinstalling the pump. With the sprocket in the timed position, you'll find the pump just on a compression stroke and it's quite tricky to hold it there so you can line it up with the keyway in the sprocket. Coat the woodruff key in grease and take a large measure of Malcolm's percywhatsit. It may take a couple of goes before it pops in and the woodruff key may try to make another bit for freedom but eventually it all works out.

Do the pump retaining nuts up very tightly. They will rattle loose and off otherwise.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 27 Oct 2009, 20:50

Kenny,

This is the puller drawing..

This is the Puller itself..

And this is the puller in use (car and engine removed for clarity!)..

And this is the spanner you need for the lowest mounting nut.

Unread post by **KennyW** » 27 Oct 2009, 22:06

Thanks for the replies Peter and Jim,

Jim I presume,the Pump removal tool is a simple case of slowly screwing the bolts evenly into the mounting to push pump from sprocket.

I am considering removing Hydraulic pump to improve access any thoughts.

Kenny

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 28 Oct 2009, 05:35

Yes, that's it Kenny, take off the big sprocket nut, attach the puller and tighten both bolts until it pops off...

Taking the HP pump off won't improve access hugely because its cradle is still in the way. A lot of work for not much gain really.

Unread post by **KennyW** » 28 Oct 2009, 11:44

Thanks for the reply will keep the gang posted on the job.

Kenny

mark21td · Unread post by **mark21td** » 28 Oct 2009, 17:23

If you're replaceing to pump with another one you will need to time it up properly with a DTI gauge, if you're just removeing the old one to reseal it or something then you can just mark it's position (I use a center punch where it meats the braket) and make very sure it's lined up properly.

Unread post by **KennyW** » 29 Oct 2009, 16:19

In preparation for the removal and changing of the stop solenoid I ordered a new Solenoid part from Lawson diesel in Edinburgh. I got it today and included in the box was new anti-theft bolts to replace the others. I must admit they come with a very good reputation in edinburgh so I was pleasently surprised with the inclusion of the bolts.

This is where a lot of mechanics of independant garages get most of their diesel parts.

Highly recommended by myself for anybody in this here parts.

Kenny

Unread post by **Peter.N.** » 29 Oct 2009, 16:40

Ah that's the reason!

I think I would have been inclined to fit an earlier pump.

Peter

Unread post by **KennyW** » 29 Oct 2009, 21:05

Just a thought, Does the armour on the pump required to go back on

or Is this a citroen idea of theft prevention and profiteering

On a more serious note is the body armour required

Kenny

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 29 Oct 2009, 22:00

Hi Kenny,

No, there is no need to refit the armour. Just check though that with the armour removed, the distributor head bolts do not bottom in their threads and give the impression of being tight when they're not; they may need to be slightly shorter.

MikeT · Unread post by **MikeT** » 29 Oct 2009, 22:41

KennyW wrote:In preparation for the removal and changing of the stop solenoid

If you haven't already seen it and need some help, I'm putting a strip down guide together as I work.

http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... c&start=15

Apologies if you're familiar already.

Can you please PM me the Bosch supplier details or link to their site perhaps?