Starting problems

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KennyW
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Starting problems

Post by KennyW »

Hello All,

Here's an update re my starting problems which all began last year :lol:

I have managed to speak to 2 guys who have a love citroen Xantias and are both x citroen mechanics working on their own/independently.

The problem would appear to be the stop solenoid. :)

Next problem getting at it :(

What is the best approach remove pump completely and easier access to remove armour or leave pump attached.

I have read Jim's fantastic pump overhaul and that shall be my guide.

Kenny
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Xantia TD 1.9 Mk 2 Estate LX 1998 model over 210,000 miles now and still rising!!!!!!!!!!!!! now deceased 17/12/2010.
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Post by MikeT »

From what I've read, it is possible to do the work in-situ and much more difficult than on the bench IMO.

But as it's quite a task to get the solenoid out either way, are you 100% sure that's the problem? What are the exact symptoms and details of the problem?

Have you checked the solenoid is getting an adequate live feed? Have you checked for fuel at the injectors when cranking? (WARNING: High pressure fuel can cause fatal injuries - use a thick wrap of rag).
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Post by KennyW »

Thanks for the reply Mike,

Yes, I have gone over everything and checked it all.

Hence the reason I spoke to these 2 guys, they have over 40 years citroen experience and love Xantias as well.

One of them as just had to change a Solenoid on a TD 1.9 Xantia with the same problem.

Hence the conclusion of a faulty solenoid.

Kenny
C5 x7 2.0 HDi 160 hp Estate exclusive, the newbie
Xantia 2.0 Hdi 90hp 1999 only 189,000 and rising!!!!!!! Moved on to a new home
C3 1.4 petrol (SWMBO)
Xantia TD 1.9 Mk 2 Estate LX 1998 model over 210,000 miles now and still rising!!!!!!!!!!!!! now deceased 17/12/2010.
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Post by MikeT »

Fair enough (I hope I didn't come across as trying to discredit your two friend's expertise - more a case of re-inforcing it, if anything) and good luck!

I can't advise on best removal method as I've yet to get the experience but from what I've read, it'll be much safer to remove the pump first. If it's mechanical timing, make a scribe mark between pump and bracket so you don't lose the setting. Half a hair's width makes a big difference apparently. Internal cleanliness is paramount too. Again, I'm not trying to teach granny how to suck eggs, just covering all bases rather than make assumptions.
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Post by KennyW »

Thanks again for the reply Mike,

Any help is an advantage whether it be criticism or encouragement :)

I have only a couple of questions for the forum and especially Jim.

On my Mk 2 the Hydraulic pump is above the alternator is was considering removing both prior to removing pump so as to improve access :?:

Anybody envisage problems with this approach, fortunately I have weeks holidays coming up and that is when I'm going to do the deed :!:

Kenny
C5 x7 2.0 HDi 160 hp Estate exclusive, the newbie
Xantia 2.0 Hdi 90hp 1999 only 189,000 and rising!!!!!!! Moved on to a new home
C3 1.4 petrol (SWMBO)
Xantia TD 1.9 Mk 2 Estate LX 1998 model over 210,000 miles now and still rising!!!!!!!!!!!!! now deceased 17/12/2010.
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Post by citronut »

i had intermitent cutting out with my
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Post by myglaren »

citronut wrote:i had intermitent cutting out with my
:D :D :D :D
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Post by citronut »

i had intermitent cutting out with my R reg 1.9TD,

after breaking down three times on our way home from a CCC meet we had to be relayed home,

it turned out to be the imobaliser breaking down,

i ended up removeing it with the pump in situe and ran a switched live feed straight to the shut of valve,

undo all the allan/torx screws as you can see and i think a couple which are hard to see,

then find all the shear bolts again some very well hidden deep inside the armour,

i cut bits of aemour away firstly the easyer one's with an angle grinder, then also a dremil type minni grinder, this just to gain access to the shear bolt heads to drift them loose with a small cold chisel,

even whrn the armour is completly floatting around loose and wont come free, there are a couple of shear bolts still holdind the 1/4" thick plate the throtle cable is mouted through,

once this is all away the rest is simple

regards malcolm
Last edited by citronut on 24 Oct 2009, 10:31, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by addo »

Playing YouTube videos does that to me. After a couple of Kylie's finest, I get computer meltdown. Maybe your computer's as old and doddery as mine!
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Post by myglaren »

Ooops!
Inadvertently edited your post instead of quoting it Malcolm :oops:
citronut wrote:dont know what append there i was typeing away and the screen flashed and my post disapeared,

regards malcolm
It was the dreaded intermittent cutout operating :twisted:



Edited it all to hell and gone I'm afraid -sorry :(
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Post by citronut »

i'll let you off this time Steve seein as your admin and all, (you should now better) TEA HE

its ok though as you only deleated my triger happy miss post that acured when my screen blinked

the full version is still there

regards malcolm
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Xantia 1.9 TD estate
x 132

Post by KennyW »

Thanks again for the replies along with intermitted postings :)

Where is the immobiliser fitted on my version.

My original fault was engine cutting for no obivous reason and all lights would vanish from dash, wiggling the key in ignition barrell caused the lights to reappear and vehicle would start and then cut out a short distance. Hence the reason for changing barrell.

Then all my troubles started :cry:

I had another look at Jim's Bosch pump strip and is the black box ontop of the stop solenoid the immobiliser.

Kenny
C5 x7 2.0 HDi 160 hp Estate exclusive, the newbie
Xantia 2.0 Hdi 90hp 1999 only 189,000 and rising!!!!!!! Moved on to a new home
C3 1.4 petrol (SWMBO)
Xantia TD 1.9 Mk 2 Estate LX 1998 model over 210,000 miles now and still rising!!!!!!!!!!!!! now deceased 17/12/2010.
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Post by citronut »

the imobaliser is hiden deap under the armour on the rear of the diesel pump, opposite end to the drive sprocket, also over the solanoid shut off valve, you have to remove all this armour along with the imobaliser to gain access to the shut off valve,

was it a new ignition lock you fitted, as it sounds like that could still be at fault

regards malcolm
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Post by MikeT »

KennyW wrote:On my Mk 2 the Hydraulic pump is above the alternator is was considering removing both prior to removing pump so as to improve access :?:
I would say no though I was defeated by the bottom front nut when I half-heartedly attempted pump removal. Not for lack of space but for lack of specially shaped spanners.
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Post by CitroJim »

To get at that nut you need a "half moon" or crescent shaped 13mm ring spanner and a lot of Malcolm's percywatsit along with a lump of Blu Tak. Girly fingers helps too but take it from me (and Xantiaman583 can be my witness) it can be done!

This is the perfect spanner for the job.
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