Peugeot 206 1.6 8v Overheating on idle.

206xs · Unread post by **206xs** » 20 Oct 2009, 17:45

Hi, just after some advise. We have a peugeot 206 1.6 8v which likes to overheat on idle. I have changed the thermostat and backwashed the radiator. I have also checked that the fan is working and the 2 speed relays are doing their job. I have took the cap off the coolant bottle and reved the car but i have no coolant returning to the bottle. will it only return when the pressure builds up??? I am thinking the head gasket has gone but the car doesn't heat up while driving. Any advise would be appreciated.

Regards

Matt.

Unread post by **CitroJim** » 20 Oct 2009, 18:51

Hi Matt,

These engines are an absolute ***** to bleed the cooling system and I suspect you have an air lock. Saxos and 106s suffered terribly and I've bled a few of those so I reckon it'll be the same for the 206..

You must open all the bleed points when filling the expansion tank. You'll find one on the rad, one (an Allen headed screw) ion the cylinder head near the thermostat housing and one on the heater matrix elbow. Fill until water dribbles out of the rad and cylinder head bleed point. Keep the expansion tank brimmed. Squeeze the top hose and close the bleed valves when they are dribbling nicely. The most critical is to get the bleed point on the rad dribbling well before closing it. Start up and keep the expansion tank brimmed at all times. Run the car up to full temperature whilst continuing to squeeze the top hose (to displace air) and opening all bleed points periodically. Do a final bleed and top-up when the engine is hot and when the rad feels hot all over and there is heat coming through inside the car, the job is done. Don't replace the expansion tank cap until it has cooled right down so that any residual air in the system can continue to escape.

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 20 Oct 2009, 23:39

i agree with most of what Jim says, but i usualy dont have any trouble bleeding PSA cars,

i start by removeing the plug at the top right of the rad, fill coolant till it comes out of the top of the rad and stops sinking, replace plug,

now open all other bleed valves, start engine continue to fill header tank till coolant comes out of all the valves, shut off as coolant comes out of each one,

continue to run the engine till rad is evenly hot all over, now refit header tank cap and run engine till rad fans cut in, once they cut out gently open tank cap,

but in saying all that it could also be the rad fans arnt working, especialy if all is fine whilst the car is on the move

regards malcolm

206xs · Unread post by **206xs** » 22 Oct 2009, 17:19

citronut wrote:i agree with most of what Jim says, but i usualy dont have any trouble bleeding PSA cars,

i start by removeing the plug at the top right of the rad, fill coolant till it comes out of the top of the rad and stops sinking, replace plug,

now open all other bleed valves, start engine continue to fill header tank till coolant comes out of all the valves, shut off as coolant comes out of each one,

continue to run the engine till rad is evenly hot all over, now refit header tank cap and run engine till rad fans cut in, once they cut out gently open tank cap,

but in saying all that it could also be the rad fans arnt working, especialy if all is fine whilst the car is on the move

regards malcolm

The fan does kick in at about 90c (slow) and 100c (fast).
I know about the bleed nipple going to the heater matrix but no others. How many is there? and location.

Cheers

citronut · Unread post by **citronut** » 22 Oct 2009, 23:27

there should be a plug in the top of the rad and posibly a bleed kniple around/on the thermostat houseing

regards malcolm

uncle buck · Unread post by **uncle buck** » 22 Oct 2009, 23:36

206xs wrote:The fan does kick in at about 90c (slow) and 100c (fast).

That sounds about right to me...our Xsara runs about the same.

Cheers.