Think ahead to next time you need to remove it. Don't use anything too strong. Use something that is fairly soft, or will soften with a bit of warmth.
I think I used a fairly spongy black silicon sealant, that should cut easily with a knife.
Xantia windscreen scuttle trim
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Stempy
- Posts: 1626
- Joined: 26 Feb 2004, 23:21
I used some black coloured silicone based door and window frame sealer on mine, got it from B&Q.
It infuriates me to be wrong when I know I'm right
Lexia ponce
http://perception.dyndns.biz/~avengineering/index.htm
Lexia ponce
http://perception.dyndns.biz/~avengineering/index.htm
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citroenxm
- Fallen Hero
- Posts: 8061
- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- x 70
Agreed!
A simple soft silicone sealent is PERFECTLY adequet!
I cant see what citroen need to use such a blydi hard seal on them originally..
Paul
A simple soft silicone sealent is PERFECTLY adequet!
I cant see what citroen need to use such a blydi hard seal on them originally..
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
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Xantidote
- Posts: 1146
- Joined: 03 May 2009, 22:07
- x 5
Mike,
Based on my own experience of using Tiger black polyeurethane sealant on the scuttle 4-5 years ago, one word - DON'T. Despite the fixing plug at each end, scuttle started to lift at each end after 8 months. I used Sealastik as a temporary fix, to stop water finding it's way into heater (n/s) and/or fuse box (o/s), and only got around to removing scuttle and redoing the job this summer (found most of the seal had failed).
Doing the original sealing, Citroen main agent had said they used Sikaflex, but I only found the Tiger sealant in motor factors, so used that. This summer, came across Sikaflex 291 Fast Cure Marine Adhesive & Sealant (black), in a marine chandlery, for a job I was doing. Seemed ideal for the scuttle seal, so used it. Only time will tell whether it's really suitable for the scuttle, in terms of not failing, and not being too difficult to remove.
Therefore I'm tempted to suggest you follow the suggestions in this thread, and use an "ordinary" silicon sealant.
Perhaps it would be useful if we could all give feedback where we've used a sealant, to report on it's effectiveness at maintaining a seal, and it's subsequent ease of removal.
Martin
Based on my own experience of using Tiger black polyeurethane sealant on the scuttle 4-5 years ago, one word - DON'T. Despite the fixing plug at each end, scuttle started to lift at each end after 8 months. I used Sealastik as a temporary fix, to stop water finding it's way into heater (n/s) and/or fuse box (o/s), and only got around to removing scuttle and redoing the job this summer (found most of the seal had failed).
Doing the original sealing, Citroen main agent had said they used Sikaflex, but I only found the Tiger sealant in motor factors, so used that. This summer, came across Sikaflex 291 Fast Cure Marine Adhesive & Sealant (black), in a marine chandlery, for a job I was doing. Seemed ideal for the scuttle seal, so used it. Only time will tell whether it's really suitable for the scuttle, in terms of not failing, and not being too difficult to remove.
Therefore I'm tempted to suggest you follow the suggestions in this thread, and use an "ordinary" silicon sealant.
Perhaps it would be useful if we could all give feedback where we've used a sealant, to report on it's effectiveness at maintaining a seal, and it's subsequent ease of removal.
Martin
Martin
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased
)
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased
)-
CitroJim
- A very naughty boy
- Posts: 54541
- Joined: 30 Apr 2005, 23:33
- x 8045
I've used an automotive grade silicone RTV sealant every time for this job and it's fine. Secret is to clean up the windscreen very thoroughly with a strong solvent like crab cleaner and likewise for the scuttle panel.
Those end pegs are essential and also, I find a good idea to to use a couple of pieces of hard foam between the very edges of the scuttle panel and wing tops to apply pressure whilst the stuff sets.
be careful not to get any silicone on the swept area of the windscreen as it'll smear like crazy in the wet for ages. Isopropyl alcohol seems good for removing small traces of silicone that do accidentally get on the screen.
The critical bit to seal is the bit between the passenger side edge, across the blower intake and out toward the middle of the screen. The drivers side does not actually need to be sealed at all.
Those end pegs are essential and also, I find a good idea to to use a couple of pieces of hard foam between the very edges of the scuttle panel and wing tops to apply pressure whilst the stuff sets.
be careful not to get any silicone on the swept area of the windscreen as it'll smear like crazy in the wet for ages. Isopropyl alcohol seems good for removing small traces of silicone that do accidentally get on the screen.
The critical bit to seal is the bit between the passenger side edge, across the blower intake and out toward the middle of the screen. The drivers side does not actually need to be sealed at all.
Jim
A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
A bit of a Citroen AX fan...
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addo
- Sara Watson's Stalker
- Posts: 7098
- Joined: 19 Aug 2008, 12:38
- x 95
CitroJim - nice to see you keep your crabs clean...
Generally, after cleaning the surfaces to be bonded you can do a "dry fit" and apply good quality masking (against glass and scuttle) to permit an appropriate bead.
The dry fit also allows comparison of the natural gappiness, so you get an idea of where more sealant might be needed. Lay in an appropriate bead so that there is enough to extrude slightly, but not jack the trim up. With persistent steady pressure, push the wet parts together for your seal.
This is where the tape comes in - with the ball of your little finger, "drag" the sealant from one corner across to just pass the middle, then repeat for the other side. Use good pressure, so there's only a poofteenth of sealant on the tapes, and an amount remains on your finger. This should create a nice fillet of sealant. Make sure all securing clips are also driven home.
Clean up your hands, wait five minutes and see if it needs "tooling off" again. Repeat process, if it does. After an hour of so (maybe longer if it's chilly), pull the tapes off. Do this by folding over the end, then pulling the tape flat back on itself - do not simply pull away from the glass or plastic.
If you've got a moisture cured polyurethane, mist it with water now and then - this hastens surface cure and dust resistance.
Generally, after cleaning the surfaces to be bonded you can do a "dry fit" and apply good quality masking (against glass and scuttle) to permit an appropriate bead.
The dry fit also allows comparison of the natural gappiness, so you get an idea of where more sealant might be needed. Lay in an appropriate bead so that there is enough to extrude slightly, but not jack the trim up. With persistent steady pressure, push the wet parts together for your seal.
This is where the tape comes in - with the ball of your little finger, "drag" the sealant from one corner across to just pass the middle, then repeat for the other side. Use good pressure, so there's only a poofteenth of sealant on the tapes, and an amount remains on your finger. This should create a nice fillet of sealant. Make sure all securing clips are also driven home.
Clean up your hands, wait five minutes and see if it needs "tooling off" again. Repeat process, if it does. After an hour of so (maybe longer if it's chilly), pull the tapes off. Do this by folding over the end, then pulling the tape flat back on itself - do not simply pull away from the glass or plastic.
If you've got a moisture cured polyurethane, mist it with water now and then - this hastens surface cure and dust resistance.