getting to the fuel gauge sender unit
Moderator: RichardW
getting to the fuel gauge sender unit
Hi all,
I will be delving into the fuel tank tomorrow, I've had a look underneath and it all looks quite straightforward. I've read up on a procedure to get the whole unit out so i'm ok there. But I have a few more questions.
I will get some jubilee clips before i cut the citroen crimped ones off, but how do you get the crimped ones off?
Also do i need to get a new seal for it or will the existing one be ok-ish to re-use even if temporarily (if bad).
I will clean the gauze while i'm there of course. But regarding the fuel gauge sender unit, is there anything I need to look out for that could cause false readings (low with light even after a tenner of fuel)? eletronically or mechanically (a dirty shaft preventing a float moving or something).
Any info would be great. Thanks.
I will be delving into the fuel tank tomorrow, I've had a look underneath and it all looks quite straightforward. I've read up on a procedure to get the whole unit out so i'm ok there. But I have a few more questions.
I will get some jubilee clips before i cut the citroen crimped ones off, but how do you get the crimped ones off?
Also do i need to get a new seal for it or will the existing one be ok-ish to re-use even if temporarily (if bad).
I will clean the gauze while i'm there of course. But regarding the fuel gauge sender unit, is there anything I need to look out for that could cause false readings (low with light even after a tenner of fuel)? eletronically or mechanically (a dirty shaft preventing a float moving or something).
Any info would be great. Thanks.
Hi Deian.
You're only talking about removal of the pump from the tank yes,
not dropping the full fuel tank!?
The horrid self gripped Citroen jubilees simply come off by twisting the side
rectangular shoulder with a pair of molegrips/pliers - watch the edges are
sharp in the sprung overlap. Take care too with the plastic grip spring that
holds the electrical connection - it's fragile and does hold the multiplug well.
I've found the best type of replacement clamps are the pukka fuel line ones
with two stand offs with a separate nut/bolt rather than the worm drive
jubilee variety - you'll get fumes if you don't get them very secure and bear
in mind the ports on the sender are usually only plastic - I've seen odd ones
with a metal collar insert.
The outer collar threading the fuel pump/sender onto the tank is usually
very stiff and if you're not careful can very easily lose it's raised lugs where
you use a charp edged screwdriver/chisel etc and you'll need something
quite long as access is quite poor and an oblique angle is the only thing
that really needs but access is poor!
Be ready to gingerly fish the extended arm with the float out of the tank and
try not to bend it or splash fuel into your face either...
I've resued the seal and being rubber it will have a bit of give in it - you'll
know how far the spin the locking collar back on when the head of the
pump doesn't have any give or vertical movement.
At the end of the day, half the problem with the reading could be a duff
slider on the Heath Robinson pick up on the sender but the multiplug can
get damp and oxidation greening on the contacts as it's still open to the
elements even if they're not direct onto it.
Andrew
You're only talking about removal of the pump from the tank yes,
not dropping the full fuel tank!?
The horrid self gripped Citroen jubilees simply come off by twisting the side
rectangular shoulder with a pair of molegrips/pliers - watch the edges are
sharp in the sprung overlap. Take care too with the plastic grip spring that
holds the electrical connection - it's fragile and does hold the multiplug well.
I've found the best type of replacement clamps are the pukka fuel line ones
with two stand offs with a separate nut/bolt rather than the worm drive
jubilee variety - you'll get fumes if you don't get them very secure and bear
in mind the ports on the sender are usually only plastic - I've seen odd ones
with a metal collar insert.
The outer collar threading the fuel pump/sender onto the tank is usually
very stiff and if you're not careful can very easily lose it's raised lugs where
you use a charp edged screwdriver/chisel etc and you'll need something
quite long as access is quite poor and an oblique angle is the only thing
that really needs but access is poor!
Be ready to gingerly fish the extended arm with the float out of the tank and
try not to bend it or splash fuel into your face either...
I've resued the seal and being rubber it will have a bit of give in it - you'll
know how far the spin the locking collar back on when the head of the
pump doesn't have any give or vertical movement.
At the end of the day, half the problem with the reading could be a duff
slider on the Heath Robinson pick up on the sender but the multiplug can
get damp and oxidation greening on the contacts as it's still open to the
elements even if they're not direct onto it.
Andrew
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As andmcit says,, if it's about removal of the pump from the tank ...
You can reach fuel pump/gauge by lifting rear passenger seat, under the carpet, from the large circular hole ...
I can send a picture from mine (petrol, mk2) but I'm not sure if it's same in diesel models
Fuel hose connectors were easy to disconnect (if you know the technique, see pic below) and easy to refit.
As I said this may be different in a diesel model
You can reach fuel pump/gauge by lifting rear passenger seat, under the carpet, from the large circular hole ...
I can send a picture from mine (petrol, mk2) but I'm not sure if it's same in diesel models
Fuel hose connectors were easy to disconnect (if you know the technique, see pic below) and easy to refit.
As I said this may be different in a diesel model
C5 II 2.0i 16V - 2005 - Estate - 103KW - EW10A - Petrol - Manual
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On the diesels the pipes are just held on with the clip on single use (unless you're Jim) jubilee clips.
To remove them, I just use a large pair of pliers and twist them off, but you can do it more daintily using small screwdrivers to pry it open.
A long cable tie around the pipes is a good idea incase they slip down the side of the fuel tank out of reach.
If the tank is practically empty then I'd expect £10 of diesel to take you nearly to the top of the low fuel light range.
£20 takes Cassy to the first line above the reserve range.
To remove them, I just use a large pair of pliers and twist them off, but you can do it more daintily using small screwdrivers to pry it open.
A long cable tie around the pipes is a good idea incase they slip down the side of the fuel tank out of reach.
If the tank is practically empty then I'd expect £10 of diesel to take you nearly to the top of the low fuel light range.
£20 takes Cassy to the first line above the reserve range.
1.9TD+ SX Xantia Estate (Cassy) running on 100% veg
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I always re-use them wherever I can. I pick them apart with a strong pointed implement and use a pair of large nippers to clip them back together. I've re-used them many times overXac wrote:On the diesels the pipes are just held on with the clip on single use (unless you're Jim) jubilee clips.
This is an EGR clip on a 2.1TD but it shows nicely the method I use to pop them apart..
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Laser tools make a much better tool tat pops these on and off easily
Bought one for my coupe but lots of manufacturers use them in cars post 95 it seems, none of my renaults ever had anything but jubilee clips on them...
Does the job nicely of getting the things back on and off, though from the site that is not really their intended use...
http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=67&item=756
Bought one for my coupe but lots of manufacturers use them in cars post 95 it seems, none of my renaults ever had anything but jubilee clips on them...
Does the job nicely of getting the things back on and off, though from the site that is not really their intended use...
http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?cat=67&item=756
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you must have a sister to my 1994 girl! Is she an L or an M, anti sink or not?
Id more inclined to think its a guage in the dash then the sender, OR possibly the harness between the tank and the front some where, Ive not really had a faulty level sender, Im assuming your fuel guage is not showing corectly??
*EDIT: Just seen your FIRST New Car posting...
Paul
you must have a sister to my 1994 girl! Is she an L or an M, anti sink or not?
Id more inclined to think its a guage in the dash then the sender, OR possibly the harness between the tank and the front some where, Ive not really had a faulty level sender, Im assuming your fuel guage is not showing corectly??
*EDIT: Just seen your FIRST New Car posting...
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
On the subject of hose clips , the type used on the LHM tank , which are used elsewhere on Citroens , are reusable. There is a special type of plier that will release them and re-attach them. I have a pair somewhere , will post a pic up soon as.
Now using '00 Xantia LX HDI, pov spec
My past Citroens :-
'00 Xantia SX HDI, now dead due to accident
'99 Xantia HDI 110 Exclusive, RIP
'97 Xantia TD SX
'96 Xantia TD LX
'96 ZX TD
'89 BX TD
'88 AX GT
'79 CX2400 Pallas (scrapped )
& a couple of Peugeots !
My past Citroens :-
'00 Xantia SX HDI, now dead due to accident
'99 Xantia HDI 110 Exclusive, RIP
'97 Xantia TD SX
'96 Xantia TD LX
'96 ZX TD
'89 BX TD
'88 AX GT
'79 CX2400 Pallas (scrapped )
& a couple of Peugeots !
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L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
Yea, depending how well crimped the rubber hose under it is, I can reuse them with a pair of pliers, and a pair of side snips.. but i REALLY REALLY HATE with a vengence the SPRING clips !! I ALWAYS replace them with "proper" worm drive hose clips...
Paul
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
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- Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
- Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
- My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto
2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising - x 71
Worm drives can also be easyer to get at in awkward accessable places.. were as pliers, and at that, dont they have to be DIRECTLY inline with the clip to close them...??
Paul
Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project
A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
Paul:
With worm drives, by which I assume you mean jubilee, do you ever have problem with getting a decent seal all round, on the very small sizes, such as we're talking about for LHM reservoir pipes, and fuel lines. In my very limited experience, I've never been really happy that I've got good seal on small sizes - problem being the physical size of the worm being nearly as big as the clip itself. Currently this is putting me off checking my fuel tank filter.
Martin
With worm drives, by which I assume you mean jubilee, do you ever have problem with getting a decent seal all round, on the very small sizes, such as we're talking about for LHM reservoir pipes, and fuel lines. In my very limited experience, I've never been really happy that I've got good seal on small sizes - problem being the physical size of the worm being nearly as big as the clip itself. Currently this is putting me off checking my fuel tank filter.
Martin
Martin
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased )
1995 Xantia TDLX (deceased )
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Yep, that's the (only) drawback I found, they have to be square on the jointing parts but the only clip on the Xantia I found inaccessable was the EGR to manifold pipe, which was a doodle when off the car.citroenxm wrote:Worm drives can also be easyer to get at in awkward accessable places.. were as pliers, and at that, dont they have to be DIRECTLY inline with the clip to close them...??
Paul