Xantia Baptism

[Chevron Terry]

Hi ,
I have just collected my first Xantia , [ 1997 T.D. ]
On driving it back home , under heavy braking at roundabouts or junctions , I found the car to lift at the front , as if on a boat ! with the brake depressed .
It"s as if , the brakes release under braking .
My final question is , The timing belt was changed around 30,000 miles ago , when do I need to change it .
Many thanks

Terry .

[citrov6]

one cambelt rule is every 5 years regardless of mileage. and ofcourse whatever mileage the manual gives

[CitroJim]

Hi Terry, Welcome to Xantia ownership

Although they have anti-dive suspension geometry, you should not feel it as much as that.

From the symptoms, you either have nearly flat front spheres and/or air in the hydraulics.

For a start, perform a good bout of "Citarobics" (up to high, down to low and back to high, repeat five times) to rid the system of any entrained air and then go around and bleed the brakes. I'd not be surprised if you don't find air in the rear circuit.

Although Citarobics is good for bleeding air out of the main hydraulic circuits, it cannot do the brakes as these are on hydraulic dead-ends.

Agreed on the cambelt. Change it if only for peace of mind.

[Xaccers]

Check the colour of the LHM too, especially what you bleed from the brakes, it should be bright green.
Yellow/brown or even red suggests it's never been changed.
It should be replaced every 36K as well as cleaning the filters, and hydroflush used every 72K (it's a cleaning fluid which you drive on for 500-1000 miles then replace with new LHM).
It's something which garages often miss, along with changing the accumulator and anti-sink (which is actually a rear accumulator) spheres.
5L of Hydroflush (tradename hydrorincage) is about £20 from GSF so many of us use it as a matter of course with every LHM change.
The Haynes manual (Book of Lies) covers doing a LHM change quite well.

Remember to check the LHM level by setting the suspension to the highest setting when the car is on level ground. The orange disc in the inspection bubble on the top of the black resevoir should be between the two red lines. If it's over, it's no bother, but if you corner with enthusiasm it may spill a bit.
Never use anything other than LHM or hydroflush in the system.

Don't ever go under the car without supporting it on axle stands or a jack!
If the hydrolics lose pressure you will be squished and that really puts a downer on most people's days.
If you need to work under one end of the car, best way is set it on high, get axle stands under the jacking points on the sills (don't jack anywhere else along the sills, use the solid subframe under the car), then set the suspension on low. The un-supported end will drop, raising the other end, it's one of the best features of the car

[mark_l]

My "standard" procedure includes replacement of:
-engine oil & filter;
-gear oil. BTW-I replace it each 15 KKm instead 30 KKm;
-cooling liquid;
-cambelt+tensioner;
-alternator-a/c-water pump belt;
-LHM+brakes bleeding;
-engine air filter & a/c filter;
Also it is recommended to inspect:
-accumulator sphere ticking-interval more, than 25-30 sec indicates that it is flat;
-brakes hoses, disks & pads;
-LHM leaks, especially at all return piping;
-all rubber garters;
-tires;
All parts -genuine from official distributor. A little expensive, but with guarantied quality;
IMHO-it's important for safety, the rest-not expensive, but gives "good feeling"