Lower Suspension ball joints C5/Xantia/XM

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cachaciero
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Lower Suspension ball joints C5/Xantia/XM

Post by cachaciero »

Think I need to replace the nearside ball joint which as far as I can see is the same item for all three cars. There seem to be several different manufactures of these out there with prices ranging from about £8.00 each to £23.00 Question which is the best QH? FAI? or who?

Cachaciero
handyman
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Post by handyman »

As all motor vehicle spares have to meet a type approval regulation, price is purely a question of branding. Many replacement spares for Citroens are supplied by the original suppliers to PSA and rather than come in some form of fancy packaging that allows Citroen to hike the price up, they can be found through some of the parts retailers under the suppliers own label. Valeo is one that springs to mind but I am not sure they supplied the ball joints to Citroen. Lindstrom seems to be a noted supplier to PSA for ball joints.

I personally go for price and then check the quality, as these items must meet type approval. I would avoid anything from Eastern Europe, Israel or the Far East as these are known locations for sources of counterfeit parts, where quality is compromised.

If you do not already have the castellated socket for removing the ball joint, it is well worth buying and makes the job so much easier.

Handyman
citronut
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Post by citronut »

i find the lower swivles GSF sell there part No. N42414 (LEMFORDER) quite good,

regards malcolm
citroenxm
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Post by citroenxm »

FAI that my Indy supplies are not that bad either...

Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project

A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
cachaciero
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Joined: 13 Apr 2009, 07:24
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Post by cachaciero »

handyman wrote:A ----------snip-----------

I personally go for price and then check the quality, as these items must meet type approval. I would avoid anything from Eastern Europe, Israel or the Far East as these are known locations for sources of counterfeit parts, where quality is compromised.

If you do not already have the castellated socket for removing the ball joint, it is well worth buying and makes the job so much easier.

Handyman
Thanks for that and the confirmation that it's worth buying the tool, having got that any other "got yers" ?

Regards Cachaciero
citroenxm
Posts: 8061
Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto

2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising
x 70

Post by citroenxm »

handyman wrote:
If you do not already have the castellated socket for removing the ball joint, it is well worth buying and makes the job so much easier.

Handyman
Ive got this Socket, and find it completely useless to be honest, Ive not been able to use it sucessfully yet.. I still do it the long way and remove the hub completely from the car, heat it up a little and knock it out with a punch...!

Prehaps I should complete the kit and get the massive spanner that fits it and washer and nut :D :lol: :lol: :lol:

Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project

A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
andmcit
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Post by andmcit »

Never failed yet with the proper socket, another 3/4" drive socket and bar with
a jack handle - just make certain the damned peening is knocked off or all the
effort in the world won't shift it!

Andrew






Image
citroenxm
Posts: 8061
Joined: 30 Dec 2004, 23:10
Location: Somewhere in North Wales, Anglesey
My Cars: M reg Xm S2 2.1td Auto Exclusive. 269k and rising
L reg XM S1 V6 12v Manual SEi
L 94 XM 2.1 TD auto total resto

2008 Peugeot 207 Sw 1.6 16v hdi. 217k and rising
2010 Peugeot 207 SW 1.6 8v HDi 161k and rising
x 70

Post by citroenxm »

Well Andrew,

Two things, how do you keep the Hub and strut leg SOLID STILL when swinging on the Bar, and how do you keep the socket on the "Special" socket?? :roll:

Paul
Sharing a pug 207 1.6 hdi Sw 16v.
M reg Xm 2.1 td auto exclusive S2 269k and rising
L reg XM V6 12v SEi auto .. Light project

A very sad...
1994 XM 2.1 d auto
andmcit
Posts: 4299
Joined: 03 Mar 2005, 17:59
Location: Swansea - South Wales
My Cars:
x 30

Post by andmcit »

citroenxm wrote:Two things, how do you keep the Hub and strut leg SOLID STILL when swinging on the Bar,

I've secured the bottom of the strut leg in place with twine/chain - in fact
anything handy that I can get my hands on by binding a strong secure grip
around the hub preventing any forward/aft movement but obviously more
importantly sideways travel. The leverage of a trolley jack handle was
deliberately inwards to the centre line of the car to prevent unnecessary
movement on the driveshaft and the ball joint usually comes off with a snap
as it released:

Image

[the chord pictured is also secured inwards towards the engine;
actually wrapped around the lower engine mounting/stabiliser.
Also shown is the end of the 2' long T drive bar and 3/4" socket
held onto the balljoint removal socket]

citroenxm wrote: and how do you keep the socket on the "Special" socket??
The removal tool is held onto the old joint using the original balljoint
threaded section through the tool held firmly with a non nyloc nut and
wide washer and simply hand tightened together so it doesn't slip out
of the 4 castelated lugs.

I've spent hours struggling to get the peening bent out of the way and it's
best spending the time here rather than levering the leg all under strain
with a long bar trying to turn an immovable balljoint!!

Probably teaching granny to suck eggs here, but it is critical to eyeball
every bit of the peening before proceeding. The first one I undid on a
Xantia IIRC, taught me this as I had a 6ft scaffold bar and my mate
and I both levering our weight onto it to no avail: just bent the scaffold
tube!

Andrew


Image
andmcit
Posts: 4299
Joined: 03 Mar 2005, 17:59
Location: Swansea - South Wales
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x 30

Post by andmcit »

Apologies for the sh!t picture but it's the best I had handy at the moment:

Image

this shows the old naff balljoint through the removal socket - simply grip the
thread with a washer and nut and then the lot assumes the role of one big nut
which another decent big 3/4" drive socket then holds on the 8 sided hex drive
of the removal tool shown on the right and turn with a decent lever/bar.

Andrew


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citronut
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Post by citronut »

i find the N/S one dose not need restrainning, as the direction the force is going dose not pull outwards on the inner drive shaft joint,

but if you dont eather restrain or remove the O/S hub completely you will pull the intermediate drive shaft joint appart,

i always use a 2 foot knuckle bar with a 3 to 4 foot scafold tube slid over it, and i dont un peen the lip,

from memery these are only ment to be tourqued up to 50 llb foot, and lock tited,

regards malcolm
handyman
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Post by handyman »

Like Andrew, I find the castellated socket a doddle, especially if you use an air wrench to spin it off. I have both a 1/2" one for joints that move and a 3/4" jobby for those stubborn bas###ds. They all need heat to break the Loctite bond on the old threads, otherwise you will struggle with just brute force.

I prefer to take the hub assembly off complete and whip the ball-joint out on the bench. (Oooh errr!) :shock: So much easier in a vice! Less chance of popping the driveshaft or skinning the knuckles, plus you get the chance to check other items for any wear.

Handyman,IKBA
cachaciero
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Post by cachaciero »

This is all good stuff for someone who has not tackled this before, it least it has shown me that it is not likely to be the quick "5 minute" job I thought it might be, I know! I know! it's a Cit should have known better:-)

Anyway Ball Joints and Drop Links on order from GSF, thanks for the comments on this went with GSF in the end they wern't the cheapest but not the most expensive either and their price on a cambelt kit was extremely good so they got the order.

Now what size socket is required to fit the special socket?

How much heat are we talking about? Propane torch or Oxy Acetylene?

Cachaciero
handyman
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Post by handyman »

I would suggest rapid heating as you do not want to cook the wheel bearings. From memory, the threadlock bond breaks at about 70degs. I usually heat the hub carrier enough for a gob of spit to fry, ( what a lovely image! :oops: ) Do not soak the carrier with heat as they can distort, do not ask me how I know. :roll:


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andmcit
Posts: 4299
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x 30

Post by andmcit »

The removal socket I have isn't necessarily the standard one available
so sizes of the corresponding outer socket may vary so I'd only buy the
two at the same time as a matching pair if possible. The socket flats are
35mm and match this:

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=28524

least the 35mm size matches the hub nut size!!

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=128503

Andrew


Image
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