ZX handbrake problem

the_weaver · Post by **the_weaver** » 23 Sep 2009, 23:11

My MOT is due so I checked my car over for any faults and found that the handbrake was coming on earlier on one side than on the other. So I disassembled the rear drum brakes (Girling), cleaned everything up and reassembled. Now I'm finding that the offside handbrake lever (inside the drum) is not moving back to the shoe after the handbrake has been released. I can move it back with a screwdriver through the wheel bolt hole but it seems to be very reluctant to move back itself.

I suspect it might be a problem with the handbrake cable. I changed both cables three years ago. I've heard that they are "almost a service item". How long do they normally last? Is it normal to have to change one after three years?

I can't see any damage to the outer of the cable. I can see that the offside cable appears to be "a bit long" compared to the other side and sticks out in a sort of bowed loop which would make it more prone to problems. Do the cables have to be almost perfect for the system to work properly? In other words, it's a bit of dodgy design which only works when everything is new.

Is the spring on the drum end of the handbrake cable itself the only spring which pulls the handbrake lever back, or do the other springs in the drum also have an effect.

Thanks

Paul

uncle buck · Post by **uncle buck** » 23 Sep 2009, 23:32

Sounds like the handbrake cable to me.

The inner cable stats its life with a plastic coating on it, eventually this wears through & corrosion sets in...then the cable becomes "Lazy" like what is happening on your car.
The springs on the drum end of the cable pushes the leaver back to its off position but if the above is happening it will struggle to do it.

The handbrake cable do wear out quite quickly & after 3 years replacements would be a good option...best get it done before the winter arrives & you end up trying to fit them in the snow

Another possibility could be corrosion on the drum backing plate where the shoes sit....apply a wipe of copper-slip grease to the areas where the shoes contact the backing plate.
Also make sure that the handbrake lever fitted to the shoe can move nice & freely with no tightness.

Cheers.

HDI · Post by **HDI** » 24 Sep 2009, 10:02

I would concur it's the handbrake cable , probably corrosion more than wear. Two further points , make sure you get the correct length cables , I had an issue on a ZX where the dealer supplied the wrong part which was too long. Next , are the retaining clips in place holding the cables , I think they attach to the suspension arms or possibly somewhere else in that vicinity.

the_weaver · Post by **the_weaver** » 25 Sep 2009, 01:24

Thanks for the replies.

The backplate is clean and there is copper grease where the shoes touch the backplate. All the retaining clips are in place.

I've ordered two new handbrake cables.

Paul

the_weaver · Post by **the_weaver** » 27 Sep 2009, 02:23

I've fitted one new handbrake cable so far. Haven't tried it yet.

Unfortunately,I've sheared off one of the mounting studs on the exhaust heat shield. I followed the Haynes manual which said to remove the heat shield but I think I should have just pulled the cable through with string instead.

There's a bit of the stud left sticking out. About a quarter of an inch. So I'm going to try to put a nut on it. The plastic shim won't fit as the sheared stud is too short. I think I could remove the plastic shim and bolt the shield directly to the floor at that corner but I'm a bit concerned about what's going to happen with the shim removed. I assume that the shim might be there to keep the heat shield away from the floor and to minimise heat transfer to the floor.

Any ideas what I should do? Is it possible to remove the stud or will I make it worse by trying to remove it?

My other option is to fit a nut to the stud and then fit another stud into that nut. Then I could fit the plastic spacer on the new stud. It would space the shield out by 5mm on that corner.

Paul

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 27 Sep 2009, 10:49

i would use a self tapper right next to the original fixing point, you can always still use the shim

regards malcolm

the_weaver · Post by **the_weaver** » 28 Sep 2009, 00:00

That's a good idea Malcolm. I might do that.

I had thought about drilling a new hole and tapping a thread into it but I don't think I've got a tap. A self-tapper sounds a lot easier.

I've now fitted two new handbrake cables and the levers on the shoes are now returning to the rest position properly.

I compared the new cables to the old cables before fitting and the inner cables are easier to pull through on the new ones. I can see that there are small cracks in the outer casing of the old cables and signs of rust forming under the plastic outer cover. The cracks are at the point where the cables cross over from the body to the rear suspension. I suppose that the up and down movement of the suspension cracks the outers and then water gets in and the rust causes the cables to be heavy.

I wonder if it's possible to extend the life of the new cables by covering them in something like rubber tubing. Heat-shrink tubing might be good for this. They'll still crack but they will be protected by the heat shrink. You could change the heat shrink every so often. I'm not going to disassemble them again to try it though.

Paul

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 28 Sep 2009, 07:44

it would not be of any use tapping a new thread as its only going through a single skin of bodywork,

quite offten you will see buldges in the outter cable were it is coplapsing, this in turn pinches the inner cable,

i dont think srink rap/sleaving whould last any longer than the original outer,

the new cales should last a few years

regards malcolm