Dear all, Just fitted a replacement engine after all my bad luck.
All is well and fitted but I have no fuel reaching the injectors. Could be stop solenoid. I have bled the system but from experience these pumps usually disperse the air pretty well.
I am wondering if any Lexia machine resetting is necessary?
Grateful for any help.
Lawrence
new arrival 1.9 td
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furhter developement
New information.......
I bypassed the wiring to the stop solenoid and connected directly from the battery to the stop solenoid - woosh! she fired up perfect.
I then by passed the black immobiliser module connector in case it was that and it wasn't! so now it points to a fault in the wiring loom? Thing is though, I am wondering if this even the correct way to wire a pump up after de armouring?
I am wondering if the other two wires which I just blanked off need to make a circuit? If not, it must be a broken connection elsewhere in the loom.
Any suggestions anyone?
I bypassed the wiring to the stop solenoid and connected directly from the battery to the stop solenoid - woosh! she fired up perfect.
I then by passed the black immobiliser module connector in case it was that and it wasn't! so now it points to a fault in the wiring loom? Thing is though, I am wondering if this even the correct way to wire a pump up after de armouring?
I am wondering if the other two wires which I just blanked off need to make a circuit? If not, it must be a broken connection elsewhere in the loom.
Any suggestions anyone?
- CitroJim
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Hi Lawrence,
Great news
Get in touch and I'll pop over and sort the wiring. Pug and Cit must be a little different in the wiring arrangements...
Phone numbers will be in an email to you in a short while...
Great news
Get in touch and I'll pop over and sort the wiring. Pug and Cit must be a little different in the wiring arrangements...
Phone numbers will be in an email to you in a short while...
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
After doing a pump swap on an imobaliser equiped car you need to run a new live feed either from
1) the ignition switch
2) from the battory to a switch inside the car and back to the stop solenoid with a 10A inline fuse.
Or you can take it to peugeot and get the new pump sycronised to the car (read VERY espencive).
1) the ignition switch
2) from the battory to a switch inside the car and back to the stop solenoid with a 10A inline fuse.
Or you can take it to peugeot and get the new pump sycronised to the car (read VERY espencive).
99 406 LX HDI 90 estate
99 C250TD sport estate
01 306 HDI 90 meridian estate
Brew my own biodiesel
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99 C250TD sport estate
01 306 HDI 90 meridian estate
Brew my own biodiesel
http://www.shorewasteoil.xtreemhost.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: furhter developement
can u tell what which wire does the makes the solenoid work i need to try this with my car and would i still have to remove imobiliser from the pump first ?Lawrence1973 wrote:New information.......
I bypassed the wiring to the stop solenoid and connected directly from the battery to the stop solenoid - woosh! she fired up perfect.
I then by passed the black immobiliser module connector in case it was that and it wasn't! so now it points to a fault in the wiring loom? Thing is though, I am wondering if this even the correct way to wire a pump up after de armouring?
I am wondering if the other two wires which I just blanked off need to make a circuit? If not, it must be a broken connection elsewhere in the loom.
Any suggestions anyone?
pug 306 -turbo d 1993 -2001 xantia hdi 90 bhp -2000 partner van 2.0 hdi 90bhp
- CitroJim
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I've recently heard from Lawrence and I'm pleased to report the news is all good The engine is in, running and the car has a new MOT
I was hoping he'd have posted by now as he did do a magnificent job of doing a full engine transplant from a Xantia into a 406. Not as simple as it sounds as there are some detail differences.
Good luck with de-armouring. Lawrence has the job off to a tee now and he has done it in-situ, as has Citronut. A PM to both may be in order if you need any tips/advice.
I was hoping he'd have posted by now as he did do a magnificent job of doing a full engine transplant from a Xantia into a 406. Not as simple as it sounds as there are some detail differences.
Paul, there are two wires that will do the job. If you use a voltmeter, you should find one of the wires going to the immobiliser module (the black connector) has a suitable switched live via the double injection relay. Failing that you can also use the switched live that feeds the timing servo actuator but be careful which wire you use. Best to see which is live with the actuator disconnected. I think that's the brown plug but I'm not 100% sure. In any case, it's not the plug that goes to the pot on top of the pump with three wires which will be the blue one.scottishpaul wrote:can u tell what which wire does the makes the solenoid work i need to try this with my car and would i still have to remove imobiliser from the pump first ?
Good luck with de-armouring. Lawrence has the job off to a tee now and he has done it in-situ, as has Citronut. A PM to both may be in order if you need any tips/advice.
Jim
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
Runner, cyclist, time triallist, duathlete, Citroen AX fan and the CCC Citroenian 'From A to Z' Columnist...
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oh i got all the bolts out that pump but seems to be a roll pin going throught that silly box not enough to get a hold off i think have to drill that out too ....put a standard 306 t d pump on it and with running live feeds to the glow plugs and solinoid its a runnerCitroJim wrote:I've recently heard from Lawrence and I'm pleased to report the news is all good The engine is in, running and the car has a new MOT
I was hoping he'd have posted by now as he did do a magnificent job of doing a full engine transplant from a Xantia into a 406. Not as simple as it sounds as there are some detail differences.
Paul, there are two wires that will do the job. If you use a voltmeter, you should find one of the wires going to the immobiliser module (the black connector) has a suitable switched live via the double injection relay. Failing that you can also use the switched live that feeds the timing servo actuator but be careful which wire you use. Best to see which is live with the actuator disconnected. I think that's the brown plug but I'm not 100% sure. In any case, it's not the plug that goes to the pot on top of the pump with three wires which will be the blue one.scottishpaul wrote:can u tell what which wire does the makes the solenoid work i need to try this with my car and would i still have to remove imobiliser from the pump first ?
Good luck with de-armouring. Lawrence has the job off to a tee now and he has done it in-situ, as has Citronut. A PM to both may be in order if you need any tips/advice.
pug 306 -turbo d 1993 -2001 xantia hdi 90 bhp -2000 partner van 2.0 hdi 90bhp
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Paul, sorry for the delay in posting, I haven't been on the forum for a while and thanks for the info Mark - As Jim mentioned it seems to be working with a direct attachment to the pump timing cable. This may prove to muck about with the timing but, fingers crossed it's been fine -I would need an expert to run another cable through I think!
Right Paul,
In case you're not sorted with that pump. That roll pin is a bit of swine. Thing is, don't be tempted to force it - The roll pin goes through a recess in the full load adjustment screw on the pump......and this is where I began life on the forum because someone wrecked my pump by doing this!
Here's a way of getting it out. It's way too awkward to drill unless you have a 90 degree drill. I managed it by driving exactly the right size self tapping screw into the hole in the pin. If you can manage to get it to bite, wind it in to get a good grip and then grab the screw with mole grips and bash it out. The pin hopefully comes with it and then you can remove the armour. This is the only way to reveal the stop solenoid and all the immobiliser module wiring.
Hope that helps
Right Paul,
In case you're not sorted with that pump. That roll pin is a bit of swine. Thing is, don't be tempted to force it - The roll pin goes through a recess in the full load adjustment screw on the pump......and this is where I began life on the forum because someone wrecked my pump by doing this!
Here's a way of getting it out. It's way too awkward to drill unless you have a 90 degree drill. I managed it by driving exactly the right size self tapping screw into the hole in the pin. If you can manage to get it to bite, wind it in to get a good grip and then grab the screw with mole grips and bash it out. The pin hopefully comes with it and then you can remove the armour. This is the only way to reveal the stop solenoid and all the immobiliser module wiring.
Hope that helps