can u tell what which wire does the makes the solenoid work i need to try this with my car and would i still have to remove imobiliser from the pump first ?Lawrence1973 wrote:New information.......
I bypassed the wiring to the stop solenoid and connected directly from the battery to the stop solenoid - woosh! she fired up perfect.
I then by passed the black immobiliser module connector in case it was that and it wasn't! so now it points to a fault in the wiring loom? Thing is though, I am wondering if this even the correct way to wire a pump up after de armouring?
I am wondering if the other two wires which I just blanked off need to make a circuit? If not, it must be a broken connection elsewhere in the loom.
Any suggestions anyone?
The engine is in, running and the car has a new MOT Paul, there are two wires that will do the job. If you use a voltmeter, you should find one of the wires going to the immobiliser module (the black connector) has a suitable switched live via the double injection relay. Failing that you can also use the switched live that feeds the timing servo actuator but be careful which wire you use. Best to see which is live with the actuator disconnected. I think that's the brown plug but I'm not 100% sure. In any case, it's not the plug that goes to the pot on top of the pump with three wires which will be the blue one.scottishpaul wrote:can u tell what which wire does the makes the solenoid work i need to try this with my car and would i still have to remove imobiliser from the pump first ?
oh i got all the bolts out that pump but seems to be a roll pin going throught that silly box not enough to get a hold off i think have to drill that out too ....put a standard 306 t d pump on it and with running live feeds to the glow plugs and solinoid its a runnerCitroJim wrote:I've recently heard from Lawrence and I'm pleased to report the news is all good
I was hoping he'd have posted by now as he did do a magnificent job of doing a full engine transplant from a Xantia into a 406. Not as simple as it sounds as there are some detail differences.
Paul, there are two wires that will do the job. If you use a voltmeter, you should find one of the wires going to the immobiliser module (the black connector) has a suitable switched live via the double injection relay. Failing that you can also use the switched live that feeds the timing servo actuator but be careful which wire you use. Best to see which is live with the actuator disconnected. I think that's the brown plug but I'm not 100% sure. In any case, it's not the plug that goes to the pot on top of the pump with three wires which will be the blue one.scottishpaul wrote:can u tell what which wire does the makes the solenoid work i need to try this with my car and would i still have to remove imobiliser from the pump first ?
Good luck with de-armouring. Lawrence has the job off to a tee now and he has done it in-situ, as has Citronut. A PM to both may be in order if you need any tips/advice.
