ZX 1.9D Timing belt and water pump replacement

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Keith J
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ZX 1.9D Timing belt and water pump replacement

Post by Keith J »

Hi I am doing the job as in the header. I have a 1995 ZX elation Estate 1.9D. I assume that I have to remove the cast aluminium clamp thet holds the shock absorber to get access? I am a bit worried about this as that side is jacked up and the wheel is off. I don't want the shock absorber pinging out of the wing. Any advice on this procedure please.

Also before I start. Is the Crankshaft pulley a left or right hand thread?

Thanks in advance.

Keith
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Post by RichardW »

Keith,

You (or me) are a bit confused :lol: The cast bracket you are talking about is probably the engine mount - the shock absorber in the ZX is within the suspension strut, and doesn't need to be disturbed. Make sure you put a jack under the engine before you remove the mount :wink: The pulley bolt is RH thread, and pretty tight, and 22mm. You might need to resort to a spanner on the bolt and flicking the starter to free it
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Keith J
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Post by Keith J »

Thanks. I realised that it was the engine mount as I began to undo it. Doh!

Just trying to crack the crankshaft pulley bolt now. Thanks for the advice re flicking engine.

I am convinced that Citroen make a special British model with tight spaces that are almost impossible to access, just so they can hear us swear. Lol.
Keith J
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Post by Keith J »

Advice please. I have 2 pulleys on the cambelt circuit. One above the water pump and one on the rh side of the circuit, Looks klike an idler mounted on a plate and bolted to the block. I assume the lh wheel is the tensionor but as it's hard to see in there I would like to ask advice re loosening and tightening it after cambelt replacement. I have a haynes manual but it only features the p[etrol TU engine and mine is different.

Thanks
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Featch
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Post by Featch »

Personally I always fit a new tensioner every time I fit a new cam belt. For the small cost it's worth it every time.
Citroenless at the moment. CX or GS that is my dilemma!
2011 Volvo V70 D3
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RichardW
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Post by RichardW »

The rearmost one on the engine is the tensioner. It is spring loaded. There are two fixings - one low down, the other underneath the tensioner wheel, and there is square hole just above / in front of wheel. Slack both bolts off, then use a 3/8 square drive or something to push the tensioner back, then nip up the top nut with your third hand :lol: Belt should now be slack. On refitting, just slack off the top bolt and carefully let the tensioner spring take up, nip up the bolts, turn the engine over a couple of turns, slack the bolt off to let the spring do its work, then tighten both bolts.

Do not try to nip the nut under the tensioner up with your fingers, then let go of the spring - the tensioner springs back and the side of your finger that is caught between the nut and the tensioner gets the side ripped off it :twisted:
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Old-Guy
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Post by Old-Guy »

I guess the 1.9 installation in the ZX is very similar to the Xantia. I did a write up (stealing ideas and photos from various other posts) to make life simpler for me next time round (in 3 years). You can find it on my webspace http://www.attfield.dircon.co.uk/xantia where there's also info on how to make a tensioner adjuster for next to nothing.

If you haven't got a Haynes manual, someone scanned theirs and made it available:
the link to the file is http://d01.megashares.com/dl/a53f1aa/Ha ... 3-1998.pdf and the password is 80811.
This site is free to use (just ignore the adverts).
That's http://d01.megashares.com/dl/a53f1aa/Ha ... 3-1998.pdf

Guy
2011 Grand C4 Picasso VTR+ 1.6HDi in Kyanos Blue
1995 Xantia Estate SX 1.9TD in Vert Vega "The Green Lady" - after 11 years now owned by XanTom
1998 Xantia 2.1 VXD Estate in Mauritius Blue - R.I.P. (terminal tin-worm)
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