Auxiliary belt, pulleys and coolant tubes

lazza · Post by **lazza** » 10 Jul 2009, 08:46

HI

Thanks for all the inputs for my sphere changing. As I may have to wait a while for tools and parts, thought I'd ask about the other main jobs I have to do.

Basically I never got round to changing the auxiliary drive belt when dealing with my fuel pump last year.

It kind of makes sense to do all in one go as once i'm under there everything is in the same place. What i'd like to do is:

1. Change the auxiliary drive belt
2. Change the crankshaft pulley (looks like it's had a knock and is wonkey)
3. Change any other pulleys recommended by the experts in this forum

4. Change the coolant pipes that look like they have about 5 miles left in them!

I think the hardest job is number 4-- draining the coolant, refilling etc.

Any assitance most appreciated

Larry

Old-Guy · Post by **Old-Guy** » 10 Jul 2009, 21:43

Larry

Your quest for help:

1. As far as I can remember, the BoL (Haynes) is pretty accurate for changing the auxiliary belt. Do make sure that you get the right length belt - if you've wound the tensioner right up and the belt doesn't go on easily, you been given the wrong one. A misprint in one catalogue (one with two chevrons?) has been perpetuated in various after-market catalogues. Do take the tensioner off and check the pulley for slack in the bearing and signs of losing grease.

2. The crankshaft pulley is an absolute s*d to get off. If all else fails, support a the end of a long breaker bar on the ground (if very hard, interpose a piece of wood), and give the starter a flick. Nasty and potentially dangerous, but it does work!

3. Check waterpump and timing belt tensioner when changing timing belt. Change both as a matter of course every other timing belt change.

4. Change those pipes before they fail! Draining the coolant and refilling (new if any doubt) is easy - Citroen thoughtfully fit a tap to the bottom of the rad. Having to do the head gasket on a boiled engine would be a much BIGGER job. AS far as I know (by reputation only) the only pigs are the heater pipes - search the forum on this score. I seem to remember there's a serious risk of pulling the pipes out of the heater matrix.

As we have two Xantias in the family, I've been making notes of what unusually tools I've needed. Some more tips about the crankshaft pulley in my notes on changing the timing belt. You can find both at http://www.attfield.dircon.co.uk/xantia.

Guy

Post by **admiral51** » 10 Jul 2009, 22:07

Hi Larry
As for the coolant change if you are replacing pipes then i would recommend removing the rad and giving it a flush (both ways) and having a good clear out of leaves/debris between the rad/condensor and cooling fans

From memory if you look at the Forums Battleships Game Here then location I 5 is where the thermostat lives and location C 4 is one of the bleed valves (looks like a tyre valve cap)
Give the system a good flush with the thermostat removed and then refill with distilled water (approx 5 ltrs) and make sure its well bled.If the cooling fans come on before temp gets to 70 degrees then you will have an air lock (personal opinion

) and best to let system cool down and then start from scratch.
There is a thread on here somewhere about coolant change/bleeding just cant see it at the moment no doubt its stareing me in the face

Colin

lazza · Post by **lazza** » 13 Jul 2009, 08:56

Thanks for your replies.

The great BoL says i must drain first the coolant from the radiator and then from the engine block.... is this correct?

if so, where is the drain plug for the engine block located?

Anothe question: How many tubes are there two change in the coolant system. The one from thermostat to radiator is new... how many more are there, are they all around the auxiliary drive belt area?

cheers
Larry