My sister-in-law has a 1993 Peugeot 106 954cc carb.
She hasn't serviced it for absolutely ages even though I have mentioned it ! ! !
It has a manual choke on it and idles very poorly at times but OK at other times. Sometime you can be stopping at a junction and it will idle erratically and cut-out.
Other times yoy can be going along and put your foot down to overtake and the engine doesn't pull properly.
She has had a new air filter as this was clogged.
I have said she will need a new fuel filter and plugs as they must have been in for 30K miles +.
What else to try ?
1993 Peugeot 106 Idle
Moderator: RichardW
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Paul Thomas
- Posts: 80
- Joined: 13 Aug 2002, 19:44
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
Paul -
Since it's a carb'ed engine, it will, no matter the make, suffer the standard carb problems.
It's been 10y's now with that poor car, exposed to every day hard work, w/o any love at all !
The carb is fitted with an electrovalve, anti run-on valve, which can be a teaser. Check it's cable connection, which must be perfect. A failing valve means engine reluctant to idle.
It could also simply be dirt in the idle mixture jet.
If the engine tends to die, the instant you want to accelerate, you have dirt in the carb. Even a defective membrane in the carb's accelerator pump. This is the device, which on even the slightest move on the accelerator, should give a squirt of petrol down the carb barrel.
Or you can in fact have the opposite problem : the carb's float valve is defective (dirt !), allowing a constant overflow of petrol down the barrel. Then the acc pump simply drowns the engine, when you want to accelerate, giving exact same symptom.
Better find a Haynes with descriptive pic's on the carb, since you're out on a carb dismantling anyway, to clean it. And then you need an adjustment procedure. The final touch is allways a visit to the nearest garage with a CO instrument, to set the correct idle mixture.
Other obvious points, are the ignition system details. Everything should be cleaned and damp proofed. The distributor should be checked for a working vacuum advance pot. I bet the small rubber hose, from the carb to this vacuum device, is rotten and badly leaking. In fact you may find several of these small rubber/PVC hoses, running back & forth between various air/vacuum devices. Replace these hoses, ensuring they do'nt tease you with mysterious problems, caused by leaks. Haynes may be at help here, since it's quite common that some of these hoses even may be missing [xx(]
Engine oil & filter [?]
Oil level in box [?]
Coolant condition [?]
Brake fluid - REPLACE [:0] & bleed all brakes. Brake fluids MUST be replaced every 2 years ! These DOT fluids collects water, making the brakes rust from inside, and causing fatal brake failures, since water boils at MUCH lower temperature than the DOT fluid. Brakes produces LOTS of heat [:0]
Brakes condition in general [?]
Since it's a carb'ed engine, it will, no matter the make, suffer the standard carb problems.
It's been 10y's now with that poor car, exposed to every day hard work, w/o any love at all !
The carb is fitted with an electrovalve, anti run-on valve, which can be a teaser. Check it's cable connection, which must be perfect. A failing valve means engine reluctant to idle.
It could also simply be dirt in the idle mixture jet.
If the engine tends to die, the instant you want to accelerate, you have dirt in the carb. Even a defective membrane in the carb's accelerator pump. This is the device, which on even the slightest move on the accelerator, should give a squirt of petrol down the carb barrel.
Or you can in fact have the opposite problem : the carb's float valve is defective (dirt !), allowing a constant overflow of petrol down the barrel. Then the acc pump simply drowns the engine, when you want to accelerate, giving exact same symptom.
Better find a Haynes with descriptive pic's on the carb, since you're out on a carb dismantling anyway, to clean it. And then you need an adjustment procedure. The final touch is allways a visit to the nearest garage with a CO instrument, to set the correct idle mixture.
Other obvious points, are the ignition system details. Everything should be cleaned and damp proofed. The distributor should be checked for a working vacuum advance pot. I bet the small rubber hose, from the carb to this vacuum device, is rotten and badly leaking. In fact you may find several of these small rubber/PVC hoses, running back & forth between various air/vacuum devices. Replace these hoses, ensuring they do'nt tease you with mysterious problems, caused by leaks. Haynes may be at help here, since it's quite common that some of these hoses even may be missing [xx(]
Engine oil & filter [?]
Oil level in box [?]
Coolant condition [?]
Brake fluid - REPLACE [:0] & bleed all brakes. Brake fluids MUST be replaced every 2 years ! These DOT fluids collects water, making the brakes rust from inside, and causing fatal brake failures, since water boils at MUCH lower temperature than the DOT fluid. Brakes produces LOTS of heat [:0]
Brakes condition in general [?]
-
Paul Thomas
- Posts: 80
- Joined: 13 Aug 2002, 19:44
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
AndersDK
Thanks for the thorough reply.
I managed to spend some time on it at the weekend after my week off and replaced the spark plugs which were filthy black and the electrode worn down leaving a considerably larger the .8mm gap !
I also took the opportunity to replace the Fuel filter and checked the distributor cap and rotor arm. Both the rotor arm and cap were badly worn and have also now been replaced.
I have also thoroughly brushed the engine with cleaner and jet-washed off so that it is easier to see what is happening.
The idle speed has been increased as it was a bit low.
Having been out for a couple of runs it does seem significantly better with no hesitating and it hasn't stalled since.
I'll give it a couple of weeks and let you know how it runs.
Thanks for the thorough reply.
I managed to spend some time on it at the weekend after my week off and replaced the spark plugs which were filthy black and the electrode worn down leaving a considerably larger the .8mm gap !
I also took the opportunity to replace the Fuel filter and checked the distributor cap and rotor arm. Both the rotor arm and cap were badly worn and have also now been replaced.
I have also thoroughly brushed the engine with cleaner and jet-washed off so that it is easier to see what is happening.
The idle speed has been increased as it was a bit low.
Having been out for a couple of runs it does seem significantly better with no hesitating and it hasn't stalled since.
I'll give it a couple of weeks and let you know how it runs.